Brass Clean Up

[GregC]

Hey All,

Working on a kit and want to know the easiets way to clean up and polish the brass components?

The butt plate, trigger guard, etc are rough cast and have some raised edges, pits, etc. I spent about 4 hours last evening on the butt plate using wet sand paper.

What is best way

 

[rich pierce]

I used to start with files, now I start with a scraper to take the bark off then go to coarse files then finer files. If you try a scraper, lubricate it with oil or even dish soap and hold the scraper at 45 degrees to the work, then the other 45 degress, and it will not "washboard" as much.

A steel "scale" (6" ruler, thin, spring steel) works well for a scraper.

 

[2172]

I've also used a fine sandpaper wrapping a file...Hank

 

[crockett]

Needle files are another option. Sand paper works pretty good. Just make sure you back it properly so you don't round off any corners. I buy some mild steel barstock and make up smooth "files" for backing up sand paper. You can start with 100 grit, then 220/240, then 400, 600. Auto parts stores sell 1000, 1500, 2000 grits that will get you to a mirror polish.
On sand cast brass, some times you get a hidden air pocket. I have never figured out what to do about it other than either live with it or get a new part. Same with sand cast steel, especially the cheap stuff from Inida. Investment casting USUALLY gives you better results. The sand crabs that used to work in the foundries could pour without air bubbles. Oh for the good old days!!! ::

 

[Zonie]

Here I go again, raising eyebrows.
For large sand castings like the buttplate I have used the following method.
1. Get out my Electric drill
2. Go to Ace or somewhere like it and buy one of their "flapper sandpaper type" attachments. These things look like a black rubber hub with about 6 flaps of sandpaper sticking out of it.
You put it in the drill and let it do the sanding.
They have several grades of sandpaper for it so get a course and a fine.

Don't try to work in one spot on the casting. Move it around and turn the casting or the drill so it is sanding from different directions all of the time. This keeps it from sanding the area concave and lets it follow the shape of the casting.
IMO, the nice thing about these sanders is they will follow the general shape of the buttplate without trying to change it if you keep the part/drill moving and don't try to get the part smooth in one step. In other words, work it down slowly. Even working it slowly is one heck of a lot faster that anything you can do by hand.

By the time your done with the fine paper, it will be ready for the hand sanding with the wet/dry paper.

The problem with files is they want to cut nice flats (often with sharp corners) and there is dam few places on a but plate that is really flat.

I haven't had too good of luck with smaller castings with the flapper thing because it won't get into the little nooks and crannies. It also will try to eat the thin edges rather than work on the wider areas.

The same stores sell some really rough sanding belts which are made for belt sanders. These work well for the smaller castings. I would recommend a medium grit because the course ones will leave the surface rougher than the sand did when the part was cast.

These belts are good for softer metals like brass and German Silver. You don't need the power sander, just the belt.
Using a knife you don't like, you can cut these belts into pieces which are easily managed with hand pressure.

 

[rich pierce]

My eyebrows are somewhere in the back of my head now. :crackup:

 

[MikeChapin]

I picked up a couple of cheap file sets out of a bargain bin some years ago. These were very rough cut files in various shapes. Rough enough that one set is used clean up rasp marks from the stock.

I use these to take out the cast marks and rough shaping. If there are tight places that need a lot of metal removed, I will use a moto tool.

I then use another set with a finer cut to clean up the marks from the first set and the moto tool. Final filing is done with fine cut neddle files. I then sand with 200, 400 grit then emory cloth over a file. If I want it real shiney, I use a polishing wheel.

:results:

 

[merdean]

Never have figured out a good way. I use a Dremel with sanding discs, polishing wheels, buffers, etc. I also have used files, sand paper, "flapper" wheel in a drill motor, buffing wheel on the grinder, I even use the grinder. Just keep working it verrrrryyyy ssslllllooooowwwwwllllyyyyy. A little bit at a time. Just don't forget to stop when the part is done. :hmm:

 

[Zonie]

While we are talking about brass and similar materials I thought I should mention:
It is highly recommended that a electric grinder with a solid grinding wheel SHOULD NEVER BE USED TO GRIND BRASS, GERMAN SILVER OR OTHER MATERIALS WHICH CAN PLUG UP OR LOAD THE WHEEL.

Didn't mean to shout too loud, but grinding these materials can cause the wheel to explode. :shocking: :shocking: :shocking:

Using sanding disks or drums don't have this problem because they are just paper/cardboard backed.

 

[Herb]

One of the best ways I've found to clean up brass is a scraper. I use the back of a worn out hacksaw blade. Put it in a vise and try to file a square edge on the back to sharpen it (even two sandwiched together). It just barely files, or draw files. But it cuts brass better than anything else I've tried. As mentioned above, cut by pulling at an angle, and if it chatters, change the angle. You can even cut by pushing. You will be surprised at how much brass you can cut with this scraper, you can actually shape a butt plate or trigger guard with it, and you can work around the curves of the bow and spurs. And the same scraper works wonders on wood.

 

[pcrum]

I use various files to get the casting marks off, then switch to sandpaper wrapped around a file to get it as smooth as I can. I finish with a piece of leather rubbed into some jewlers rouge, elk or deer seems to work best. This will shine it up better than polish.

pop in a good movie, and sit down with the parts. The most important thing is to take your time. If you take too much off it's really hard to put back on.

Cheers,