Brass inlay

[mikeinpa]

I have to attach a small piece of brass and don't want to use screws or pins. Can I safely use two part epoxy, and if I do will I have problems when I apply the aqua fortis later on?

Thanks for any advice.

Mike

 

[Ames]

You didn't say where you are trying to attach the brass.
Pins are the tried and true method of doing a lot of inlay parts. Epoxy may not stand up to the changes in temp and humidity as well as pins. If you are setting it into a thick part of the gun and can braze a small pin on the back of the brass you could drill a small hole in the wood. Epoxy goes in the hole and push the pin in.
OR, braze a pin on the back of the brass, cut some barbs into the pin and push it into a non epoxied hole.
I don't know what you have but pinning is easy.

 

[Robby]

I don't know what you are trying to accomplish but you could rough up the back side of your inlay with course emery or a file, put your two part epoxy in place insert your inlay and bind it with electrical tape. When it hardens, file the inlay flush with the wood, this will also remove any epoxy that has oozed to the surface of the wood.
Robby

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I have to attach a small piece of brass and don't want to use screws or pins. Can I safely use two part epoxy, and if I do will I have problems when I apply the aqua fortis later on?

Thanks for any advice.

Mike

Epoxy is way too thick for my inlays. You would have to deepen the cut out in order to have room for its thickness.
I fasten small brass inlays with a tight hammer in fit and a dab of super glue. It is not historically correct, but remember If they would have had super glue, they would have used it. You want to rough up the metal to get better adhesion.
Flintlocklar

 

[mikeinpa]

Sorry for not being more specific. I filed a thumb notch in a wooden patch box cover to help slide the cover off. It's not really an inlay but a 1/32nd sheet of brass on the surface of the notch. I just thought it would look cleaner without any pins.
Thanks
Mike

 

[pooch156]

I use #2 x 1/4" brass screws. Pre drill your inlay to the widest diameter of the shank of the screw. Countersink the holes in the inlay until just the portion of the screw slot is exposed. Put a little 2 part epoxy in the inlay bed of the stock. Seat your inlay in the bed and install the screws. It's best to drill pilot holes for the screws before the epoxy. Just put your inlay into the bed and with a small sharp awl or equivalent, mark the holes. Believe me, your inlay won't come back out. After the epoxy hardens file it flush. The inlay in the pic was installed that way.

 

[Robby]

Tapered wire brads were ofter used inlays and when finished they are hardly noticeable.
Robby

 

[mikeinpa]

Thanks for all the advice, I'll give the #2 screws a try.

Mike

 

[Vaino]

Early on I had a 1/32" thick brass inlay that was attached w/ epoxy....but I filed a narrow "V" groove into the edges on both sides which locked the inlay in place.....didn't trust just using adhesion of the epoxy. Still have the LR and the inlay is still locked in. Used small pins after this.....Fred

 

[oldwood]

Epoxie is very good to secure inlays , but as one of the guys said , try to pin the inlay , as well. Even better , to cover up a sloppy inlay job , brown stained epoxie is superior. Brownells sells it in paste form..........oldwood

 

[Sidney Smith]

On my Lancaster, I used plain clear 5 minute epoxy to secure the nose cap. Hasnt come loose yet. On my .32 caliber squirrel rifle, I used Brownells Acra glass dyed brown. Worked very well.

 

[Pete G]

Epoxy and wood expand differently. I glued a nose cap and it stayed for twenty+ years, but eventualy failed. Use either screws or pins.

 

[oldwood]

Sid and Pete...........To fake a rivet as used on old guns to hold the nose cap in place post brown epoxie treatment , I simply drill, tap 6/32 " a hole from the barrel side of the forearm , and tap the hole through the wood and nosecap. Use a 6/32 flat head machine screw and cut a tiny bevel under the screw head so the screw doesn't touch the bottom of the barrel. Install the screw and cut the excess off on the nose cap side , file , emory , polish and done. Nose cap will not come off no matter what the temperature does to the epoxie. Copper , brass or whatever screw you have ,just as good. Hope this helps.....................oldwood