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I have a brass "range rod" (made by CVA) that I use to keep from excessively wearing the wood ramrods. Is it necessary to use a bore guide to keep from wearing the muzzles of rifle and shotgun?
 
I have a brass "range rod" (made by CVA) that I use to keep from excessively wearing the wood ramrods. Is it necessary to use a bore guide to keep from wearing the muzzles of rifle and shotgun?

FWIW, I wouldn't use one without a muzzle guide...the ones I settled on are nylon/plastic ones from Builder's Supply...light, quiet, and inexpensive compared to the brass ones
 
Roundball - The bore guide is plastic/nylon or the range rod? My brass range rod shore gits heavy after a days swabbin'! ::
 
Roundball - The bore guide is plastic/nylon or the range rod? My brass range rod shore gits heavy after a days swabbin'! ::

Plastic muzzle guides

You can use lighter but strong fiberglas "super-rods" but I understand you need to use a bore guide with them too.

Best range rods I've ever used are those that TC used to make...polymer covered fiberglas so no muzzle guide is required...31.5" with a wooden ball on top.

But they discontinued them several years ago...I searched and bought all I could find on the internet and they're all I use at the range.

PS: As an alternative, one way to avoid all that swabbing between shots is to use nothing but natural lube 1000...I never wipe beteen shots during entire range session until I'm done for the drive home.
 
I've always used a bore guide regardless of which caliber.
In fact, a nice brass bore guide range rod and set from 22cal to 58 cal was what I got for my 10 birthday from my grandfather. Been using it ever since for the shop/bench.

I've also got the CVA range rod for the field and use bore guides.
 
Roundball-
You and Stumpy (and Ohio Joe and others)have helped me to "see the light" on using REAL blackpowder. Every time I experiment with a new substitute I still get the feeling somethings missing :hmm: and go back to Black! :) Since I shoot Goex 2f in 10 ga., have been using it in .54. I also have some 3f. Will the 2f work without swabbing (I use Wonder Lube which is the same as T.C.'s Natural Lube)? Or is 3f really better?
 
Will the 2f work without swabbing?

Short answer: Yes.

Some rifles show a favorism to FFFg vs. FFg, and vice versa. FFg has larger kernels, so it has a slower burning rate, but is otherwise identical and produced in the same batch as FFFg. They run it through a series of screens and FFFg falls through just before FFg. Why that would result in more fouling has yet to be explained to me in a way I will believe. The residue is no more or less IMHO. I use FFg in .50, .54 and 12 ga. and I can shoot without wiping (with either the Natural Lube 1000 Plus or my Moose Snot & in some cases the castor based moose milk). BUT, my accuracy improves when I wipe every other with the .50 and every 5th with the .54 cal. That's probably just those particular rifles. The only way to know how yours will react is to try.
 
Roundball-
You and Stumpy (and Ohio Joe and others)have helped me to "see the light" on using REAL blackpowder. Every time I experiment with a new substitute I still get the feeling somethings missing :hmm: and go back to Black! :) Since I shoot Goex 2f in 10 ga., have been using it in .54. I also have some 3f. Will the 2f work without swabbing (I use Wonder Lube which is the same as T.C.'s Natural Lube)? Or is 3f really better?

Goex 3F leaves less fouling for me than 2F...I use 3F in .45/.50/.54cals...and use 2F in .58/.62cals
 
You really should use a bore guide. All rods get some fouling on them and then grit gets onto the fouling and abrades the bore -- mostly at the muzzle.

I use brass bore guides on my stainless rods but I am sure that the plastic works fine as well.

CS
 
Main reason 3f fouls less than 2f is it takes less of it to achieve the same velocity. less powder = less fouling.
If you shoot the same amount of either the fouling should be the same. I use 3f for everything but my smoothbores.
Even my .75 Hawken likes 3f.
 
You really should use a bore guide. All rods get some fouling on them and then grit gets onto the fouling and abrades the bore -- mostly at the muzzle.

I use brass bore guides on my stainless rods but I am sure that the plastic works fine as well.

CS

Yes, I've used both brass and nylon/plastic and they're functionally equivalent...reason I went with nylon/plastic is that they're so much lighter & quieter...have one in every hunting pouch...they're even quiet when running my brass rods up and down through them...less expensive too...not PC but I don't care...neither are my TC Hawkens but they've all got perfect muzzles/crowns
:redthumb:
 
You really should use a bore guide. All rods get some fouling on them and then grit gets onto the fouling and abrades the bore -- mostly at the muzzle.

I use brass bore guides on my stainless rods but I am sure that the plastic works fine as well.

CS

No one has mention Protecting the CROWN of the MUZZLE. If your Crown get messed up you accuracy will go Bye Bye
 
I found a brass rod "kit" at Sportsmen's Warehouse made by Ox-Yoke for 20.00. Includes the rod, bore guide, brush, jag, screw tip. I think it will work well.
 
You really should use a bore guide. All rods get some fouling on them and then grit gets onto the fouling and abrades the bore -- mostly at the muzzle.

I use brass bore guides on my stainless rods but I am sure that the plastic works fine as well.

CS

No one has mention Protecting the CROWN of the MUZZLE. If your Crown get messed up you accuracy will go Bye Bye
 
[quote
PS: As an alternative, one way to avoid all that swabbing between shots is to use nothing but natural lube 1000...I never wipe beteen shots during entire range session until I'm done for the drive home. [/quote]

You will get the same results spit patching. You are swabbing the bore every time you load.:imo:
 

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