BRECH PLUG REMOVAL T/C

[lonewolf5347]

anyone ever remove a breech plug from a t/c barrel and if so can you explain how to do it without twisting the barrel. I would like to cange the breech from percussion to flint,I see track of the wolf sell plugs,but before I start they may be some heavy rust on the breech rhreads only because the guy who shot the the gun failed to clean it.I did get to shoot it the other day and it shoots great,I got all the rust out of the barrel has some freckle spots of pitts but it shoots o.k..
just a thought???

 

[roundball]

anyone ever remove a breech plug from a t/c barrel and if so can you explain how to do it without twisting the barrel. I would like to cange the breech from percussion to flint,I see track of the wolf sell plugs,but before I start they may be some heavy rust on the breech rhreads only because the guy who shot the the gun failed to clean it.I did get to shoot it the other day and it shoots great,I got all the rust out of the barrel has some freckle spots of pitts but it shoots o.k..
just a thought???

For some additional info on the subject, I've had TC convert two .45cal x 1:66" caplock barrels to flint...included replacing the plug, grinding/filing the plug flats to match the barrel flats, and then rebluing the barrel...$65 delivered back to my front porch

 

[LRB]

Lock it tight in the vise with brass or copper plates on each side, and the breech just clear of the jaws. It may help to soak it with a penetrating oil for a few days first. Then you need a good wrench that will not tear up the plug. T-C used to sell a special adapter for this. But maybe a large adjustable wrench with protective plates would work. As long as the wrench does not want to slip. If it trys to slip, look for another way. I made a wrench from 3/4" steel bar. I think it is maybe 18 inches long. I drilled two holes far enough apart for any plug, and then drilled two matching holes in a short piece, and it is bolted tight on the plug, with protective plates. Only failed once, but worked later with heat to the barrel.

 

[renovato]

I'd definately go with the wrench from T/C. I have a Seneca that had the plug removed with an adjustable wrench and copper plates. It still rounded over the flats somewhat. I bought it that way and have chosen to not file and refinish it, as it's not too bad, but it is preventable.

 

[roundball]

I'd definately go with the wrench from T/C. I have a Seneca that had the plug removed with an adjustable wrench and copper plates. It still rounded over the flats somewhat. I bought it that way and have chosen to not file and refinish it, as it's not too bad, but it is preventable.

I just saw one for sale on one of the auctions yesterday...but even they are not fool[url] proof...in[/url] fact TC stopped selling them / refused to sell them to John Q. Public years ago because of so many problems that ended up back at TC to fix.

 

[davy]

You could use either one of these with the proper shims ...

Davy

 

[renovato]

I'd definately go with the wrench from T/C. I have a Seneca that had the plug removed with an adjustable wrench and copper plates. It still rounded over the flats somewhat. I bought it that way and have chosen to not file and refinish it, as it's not too bad, but it is preventable.

I just saw one for sale on one of the auctions yesterday...but even they are not fool[url] proof...in[/url] fact TC stopped selling them / refused to sell them to John Q. Public years ago because of so many problems that ended up back at TC to fix.

Agreed, but it beats the alternatives. Nothing replaces attention and care. FAL builders have faced similar problems when they tried to bypass getting a proper wrench, though that wasn't a cure all either.