British fowler ramrod considerations

[Onojutta]

Closing in on the end of my first British fowler build (Chambers kit) and have a few questions in consideration of the ramrod...

1) The pre-carved stock has a ramrod channel and thimbles for a 5/16" rod; however, the hole drilled in the stock is slightly undersized and will not receive a 5/16" rod. Would it be more appropriate to put a taper on that end of the rod, or enlarge the hole in the stock?

2) In paging through Grinslade's, it would appear that ramrods of many fowlers swelled out or had a bulb at the muzzle end that was thicker than the rest of the ramrod. The question is how to allow room this bulb between the first thimble and the muzzle? My fowler will not have a muzzle cap, but I can't tell from the pictures in the book how I should treat the muzzle end of the stock to accommodate the flared bulb.

3) Does a fowler ramrod typically have a brass tip on one end that accessories like jags and worms could be screwed into (like most rifle ramrods)? If so, which end? I've seen flared metal fittings on the muzzle end of ramrods, like those found on muskets and shotguns, but not sure about the end that will go into the stock- especially if that end gets tapered.

Thanks

 

[Rob M.]

Yes, a brass tip on the small end that goes into the forestock . I make mostly 20 ga. as is the one pictured . Tips I use are 5/16" threaded for cleaning tips , etc. The hickory rod is tapered by hand from 1/2" , on my tradeguns , to 3/8" most the length and then 5/16" at the tip . Tapered ramrods are great , slow to make though..Relieve wood at the Muzzle as shown in pics , one of my builds and an original trade gun , so the ramrod will fit and easy to get a hold of by the shooter
.

 

[Rob M.]

Rasping the ramrod to taper ... Use a ramrod pipe as guide ...

 

[Onojutta]

Thanks Rob M. If I put a taper on the end of the rod that goes into the forestock, should I reduce the diameter of the brass tip to fit in the hole, or would I need to enlarge the hole so I can keep the rod and tip at 5/16" (no taper)?

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
If you go to the links below, a lot of your questions will be answered.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=48841.0https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=48844.0https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=48847.0https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=48921.0
dave

 

[James Kibler]

Taper the ramrod, do not try to drill the hole in the stock oversize.
The ramrod will have enough flex to allow a swell at the end, but you can also deepen the groove slightly at the stock end.
A steel tip is much more correct than brass. This goes in the stock.

 

[Onojutta]

Taper the ramrod, do not try to drill the hole in the stock oversize.
The ramrod will have enough flex to allow a swell at the end, but you can also deepen the groove slightly at the stock end.
A steel tip is much more correct than brass. This goes in the stock.

Thanks. In smart dog’s Tutorial #5, he shows “trumpet” tip at the muzzle, which I like. Is it usually one or the other, or would it be kosher to use the trumpet at the muzzle and a threaded tip at the other end?

And perhaps a dumb question, but if a tip is installed on the tapered end of the rod, am I correct in assuming the tip is turned down to the reduced diameter of the rod?

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Because we don't normally use tow anymore for wadding or cleaning guns, I typically attach a steel or brass ferrule on the end of the rod that can thread a cleaning jag. It is on the tapered end of the rod that goes in the ramrod hole. Many original rods are very tapered and thin. For example, the ramrod hole is often less than 5/16" in diameter. I make mine 5/16" diameter and taper the rod to just under 5/16" so that it fits easily and securely in the hole. The brass or steel ferrule is turned down to fit the diameter of the tapered end of the rod. On originals, the ferrule was often made from sheet iron, rolled into a tapered tube, and the seam brazed or soldered. A coiled steel tow worm was permanently attached to the ferrule. My fowler rods are generally a bit more robust than found on original mid 18th century English fowlers because many shooters today use them more to shoot patched round balls rather than bird shot. A stronger rod is an advantage.

dave

 

[Rob M.]

Thanks Rob M. If I put a taper on the end of the rod that goes into the forestock, should I reduce the diameter of the brass tip to fit in the hole, or would I need to enlarge the hole so I can keep the rod and tip at 5/16" (no taper)?

I drill all my ramrod holes 3/8" so I have to take my Rod down just under 3/8" then for it to work correctly . I'll have to re read your text again to see what size you drilled your ramrod hole but ...more than likely , I'd take the ramrod down ..... Reread it ....dag gone it ....I'd hate to have a ramrod thinner than 5/16 ! Judgement call bud .... Good luck

 

[FlinterNick]

There are a couple of ways to make a ramrod stronger.

As a few have mentioned, making a heavier rod is beneficial.

Wood species should be considered. Hickory is often used, however some other wood species are also very good for ramrods. White Oak, Black Locust and Yew are a few that are heavier rods and just as flexible and a little heavier. I’ve also seen a few ebony rammers, as well as rammers made from wenge. These of course are very hard woods that are not commonly used for rammers.

Another method is to make a ramrod from two split square dowels glued together with expoxy with a spring steel wire running through it, otherwise know as a steel lined rammer. Brass can also be used. These are not the easiest things to make, I’ve made a few, they will have a visible seam.