Pete G
76 Cal.
Brass work hardens; that is what causes it to get brittle and break, usually right at the junction of the thread and body, which is what engineers cause a stress riser.
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Broken Cleaning Jag in Barrel
- Thread starter mogrene
- Start date
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The last couple jags I turned, I used stainless steel all thread. I make the brass jag portion with a threaded hole down the middle. I stop the threads in the jag short to make a binding fit on the all thread. For insurance I use a bit of loctite to secure the all thread. They are easier, for me, to make than threading the actual jag with a die.
Yep work hardened. Had a .40 cal jag break at the threads the other night while cleaning my over/under. Lucky it was at the muzzle while trying to force a thick patch and I was able to grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it out. Lesson learned if it don't fit don't force it. 
This is probably a PT subject. But if I offended you, it was not intentional. In fact, I usually do not pay attention to the writer of a post. I respond to the post not the person who wrote it. If I don't agree with your position it is your position I don't agree with, not you personally. The only member I have had issues with is now in a lead box. And may he remain there forever.
I read on one of the posts that person used plastic tubing shoved it down the barrel over the brass bristles on the brass brush pulled out the tube along with the broken brush.
With a patch on the Jag it might not be able to grab the jag but you might try this before you decide to make a tomato stake out of the barrel plastic tube is not that expensive.
Most of the gun smiths I know would ruin the barrel trying to remove a breach plug.
If you are going to have it done it needs to be someone that builds BP rifles. My 2 cents worth.
With a patch on the Jag it might not be able to grab the jag but you might try this before you decide to make a tomato stake out of the barrel plastic tube is not that expensive.
Most of the gun smiths I know would ruin the barrel trying to remove a breach plug.
If you are going to have it done it needs to be someone that builds BP rifles. My 2 cents worth.
What would be wrong with getting some (not a lot of) powder behind it, and fire it??
I decided to follow through on the grease / air compressor suggestions. I backed out the touchhole liner, and went online to look for a coupling or adapter to match the threads.
I stumbled upon a product carried by Muzzle Loading and More. That place is near here, so I drove over and spoke with Bob, the proprietor.
He sells the greatest gizmo ever. It's called a "SAF-T Unloader," made by Genuine Innovations. It's a small plastic device that holds a 16 oz CO2 cartridge. It comes with a fitting for percussion rifles, with fittings available for flintlocks. The flintlock fitting is a needle-like extension that fits into the touchhole, so there is no need to remove the liner to use it.
We set it up, pulled the trigger, and the jag popped right out. Or, rather, shot out. You definitely want to point the barrel in a safe direction when using it.
Folks, this is the perfect stocking-stuffer for the muzzleloaders on your Christmas list. It's small and light enough to fit in a possibles bag or shooting box and carry anywhere.
Thanks, everyone, for the advice.
I stumbled upon a product carried by Muzzle Loading and More. That place is near here, so I drove over and spoke with Bob, the proprietor.
He sells the greatest gizmo ever. It's called a "SAF-T Unloader," made by Genuine Innovations. It's a small plastic device that holds a 16 oz CO2 cartridge. It comes with a fitting for percussion rifles, with fittings available for flintlocks. The flintlock fitting is a needle-like extension that fits into the touchhole, so there is no need to remove the liner to use it.
We set it up, pulled the trigger, and the jag popped right out. Or, rather, shot out. You definitely want to point the barrel in a safe direction when using it.
Folks, this is the perfect stocking-stuffer for the muzzleloaders on your Christmas list. It's small and light enough to fit in a possibles bag or shooting box and carry anywhere.
Thanks, everyone, for the advice.
B.Habermehl
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2004
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- 766
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- 7
I'm glad things worked out for you! Back in the day, when I still put removable touch hole liners in guns. I used a 1/4 28 zerk fitting with the guts removed and the nozzle from a grease gun redneck rigged to my compressor to unload my guns at home. Popped the powder and ball out nicely. Watch the muzzle! BJH
Sweet!
It looks like these things are no longer made and aren't on Genuine innovations website. There is still a page on MidwayUSA for them for $14.99 but it says they are discontinued. Couldn't find them anywhere else although some may still be in stock somewhere. The one on Muzzle Loading & More doesn't look like the same thing and appears more expensive.
Bob had 3 or 4 in stock at Muzzleloading and More. They were $32, plus $11 for the flintlock fitting, plus $7 for two extra 16 oz CO2 cartridges.
Maybe a bit pricey, but the fact I can take it to the range or wherever was a real draw for me.
Maybe a bit pricey, but the fact I can take it to the range or wherever was a real draw for me.
- Joined
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This special gizmo did not work at one of my flintlocks. I then just pulled the ball with a T-handle.
I usually use my compressed air bottle and bought a rubber tipped air gun at the automotive store.
This rubber tip gives you a very good seal.
It blew out every broken jag so far (usually someone elses jag) with percussions and broken jags in flinters, too.
If these things work on flinters,it has a lot to do where the ball sits and with the size of the touchhole. Pressure can only develop if you actually get some air through the touchhole and it can develop uniform pressure on the back of a stuck ball...
I usually use my compressed air bottle and bought a rubber tipped air gun at the automotive store.
This rubber tip gives you a very good seal.
It blew out every broken jag so far (usually someone elses jag) with percussions and broken jags in flinters, too.
If these things work on flinters,it has a lot to do where the ball sits and with the size of the touchhole. Pressure can only develop if you actually get some air through the touchhole and it can develop uniform pressure on the back of a stuck ball...
I bought a Kentucky rifle (percussion) yesterday and was using the wooden ramrod to do some cleaning (don't have another that long), and the ferrule pulled off the rod while trying to pull the jag/patch out (very near the bottom of course).
A little compressed air on the nipple worked great.
I'll have to look at getting a needle attachment of some sort for when I get my first flintlock in a week or so.
A little compressed air on the nipple worked great.
I'll have to look at getting a needle attachment of some sort for when I get my first flintlock in a week or so.
Idaho Ron
58 Cal.
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He didn't say what kind of pressure that develops did he? A compressor will go to 125 or so. I know one guy that tried to use a compressor and it didn't blow a stuck jag. It would be interesting if the safe t unloader builds more and if so how much. Good to hear you got it out. Ron
AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
OcelotZ3 said:
For this very reason, it's always important to crosspin every rod tip you own. Looks like somemanufacturers (Investarms anyway) don't crosspin their wooden rods.
B.Habermehl
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2004
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- 7
I found its more about volume than pressure. My compresser is set at 125 psi.That's why I removed the guts from the Zerk fitting..... More flow. I bet the Co2 thingies have much more pressure and less volume. BJH
When it comes to moving something in a barrel it all comes down to pressure.
Yes, volume is important because if the thing supplying the pressure doesn't have sufficient volume it will rapidly run out of pressure when some of the gas (air) has escaped but, assuming there is enough volume to keep the pressure high it will do the job.
As for those CO2 cartridges, yes, they have a LOT of pressure in them. About 800 pounds per square inch worth.
Even if they lose some of that pressure due to their small size they still will have a lot of pressure left to do the job.
As for moving the stuck object, if it is in a .50 caliber bore, the area of the object that the pressure is pushing against is .196 square inches.
125 psi pressure will provide a force of 24.54 pounds on a .50 caliber object.
A force of 800 psi will provide a force of 157.08 pounds.
That's the reason folks using one of those CO2 devices need to be careful where the muzzle is pointing when they blow something out.
Yes, volume is important because if the thing supplying the pressure doesn't have sufficient volume it will rapidly run out of pressure when some of the gas (air) has escaped but, assuming there is enough volume to keep the pressure high it will do the job.
As for those CO2 cartridges, yes, they have a LOT of pressure in them. About 800 pounds per square inch worth.
Even if they lose some of that pressure due to their small size they still will have a lot of pressure left to do the job.
As for moving the stuck object, if it is in a .50 caliber bore, the area of the object that the pressure is pushing against is .196 square inches.
125 psi pressure will provide a force of 24.54 pounds on a .50 caliber object.
A force of 800 psi will provide a force of 157.08 pounds.
That's the reason folks using one of those CO2 devices need to be careful where the muzzle is pointing when they blow something out.
