Browning Kibler lock

[Gvilleddie]

Ok, I’ve decided to brown the lock on my Woodsrunner. I’ve got the lock disassembled and I’m ready to sand. I’ve started sanding the mill marks off the lock plate. Should I try to sand the roughness from the **** or brown is as it is. I plan to brown the plate, **** and back of the frizzen. I used the Laurel Mountain product on barrels but never a lock. Any suggestions?? Thx, E..

 

[Phil Coffins]

Yes, the final results should show the same finish on each part.

 

[Jamie Hurley]

I've browned a few of his locks. I've filed off the casting marks, but didn't bother trying to sand/file off the "roughness" of the parts.

Here's the results. Decide for yourself if you like the look.

The top rifle I actually blued first, then browned, because I wanted to darken the look. The bottom rifle is straight browning.

 

[Gvilleddie]

Thanks, that helps. Did you sand the **** at all?

 

[Mgbruch]

Locks were originally forged; so they didn't have casting seams, or cast surfaces (like the modern locks). Surfaces were filed. I take the files to every external part of the lock. I clean up the bevels, and give everything a little better definition. Here is an early Ketland on a nice plain gun. Not browned, but with filed surfaces. The longrifle is a work of art, and should reflect that in all ways. My opinion... but I get pretty anal about stuff sometimes.

 

[Iceman]

I just did my SMR lock with LMF but rust bluing. These were sanded to 600 grit.
i personally like the look of Jamie Hurleys better. Photo for your reference. It doesn’t really show how shiny the parts are because of the smooth metal finish.

 

[Jamie Hurley]

Thanks, that helps. Did you sand the **** at all?

No just filed off the casting lines.

 

[Gvilleddie]

Thanks all…

 

[EC121]

Here's my Kibler lock. I polished it up and used brass black. Also did the barrel that way. No browning.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

It depends on what kind of finish you want. If you want a nice smooth satin brown then yes would be doing some sanding. On the other hand if you are going for the antique brown then that would be a rough finish so why bother to sand it. Just file off the casting lines and go for it.

 

[satwel]

If you plan to use a cold blue or cold brown solution you should polish the parts to a degree, but keep in mind It is possible to make the lock too shiny. For the browning solution to work best the steel should have a slight surface texture. That allows the acid to "bite". If you decide to leave the lock untreated, you can polish it to your heart's content.

 

[user 34300]

Once finished enough to remove all the machining marks, say about 220 grit level, I blend it all with maroon scotch-brite . That is plenty for browning or leaving bright.

 

[IanH]

Disassembled, degreased, and hot-water browned at 125⁰F, nothing more prep-wise was done because the finish converts the top layer of metal and is carded between cycles so anything finer than about 180-grit gets blended away.