Browning solution needed

Hello:

Does anyone have a formulea for browning solution? I had one many years ago that I misplaced and well..I have tried the pre-mixed stuff from both Laurel Mountain Forge and Birchwood Casey and I do not like the results. The surface is just not what I am after as far as final finish. It is way too "smooth" if you know what I mean. I would hate to have to go back to using boiled down horse urine again..(That stuff woked but the aroma is memorable).

So does anyone have a mix that works??

Thanks all

JPH

 

[Swampman]

Leave the LMF on for several days without carding it off. It will be rough. Bleach over cold blue will really eat a barrel up in a few minutes, if that's what you want.

 

Swampman:

I have been fighting this thing for two weeks now and I am still not rusty enough...I might have to go to a hot box as it is very dry out this way. I never had this problem before using my onw "home brewed" stuff but I misplaced the recipe.

The problem I am having with the LMF solution is it gets this Cu coating and well..it stops working/rusting. I am following the instructions but it is just not rusting right. The surface I am looking for is a semi-smooth deep brown. I am in the middlle of a batch of axes as well (I make a dozen every couple of years..) and this is what I finish them with.

This is driving me nuts...

Any suggestions??

JPH

 

[Birddog6]

You don't have enough humidity & it must be warm also....... Go to the bathroom & turn on the shower & steam it in there til the mirror is dripping & hang the parts in the shower, shut the shower curtain........ (Put an old towel under it in case it drips)
That will make it rust, then leave it alone for longer periods to make the pitting deeper. Resteam the shower about ever 3 hrs & keep the door shut.
Works for me........

Birddog6

PS: I see you are in Nevada, if it is hot/dry there when you are doing it close/block off the vent/register in the bathroom as the A/C will knock down the humidity.

 

[kcsun]

Might try this one



1 oz ferrous chloride
1 oz isopropyl alcohol
1/4 oz mercuric chloride
1/4 oz concentrated nictric acid
1/8 oz copper sulphate
1 quart water
add chemicals to water NOT reverse
Kc

 

[Roy]

Build a box. I built one for drying bow staves, now use it for finishes, and add a pan of water and instant humidity. It has been one of my better investments.

 

[crgabel]

Karl,
I have sent you an e-mail
Craig

 

[Swampman]

A tent made from PVC and hurricane plastic will work too. On the LMF, you can't overlap application. That's what causes the copper looking coating.

 

Hello again:

well I will probably just use on my etching tanks I use for my PW barrels, easiest thing for me at this time..just throw some water in the bottom and hang the thing and cap it off..that should do it......I am just going nuts trying to figure this whole mess out. I have been fighting this for two weeks and frankly..I am going nuts.

I just never had this problem before out here..

Thanks for the help..I will let ya know what happens..

JPH

 

[gmww]

I agree with the others about humidity. I've used LMF and unless I have some humidity it does not rust very well.

 

Hello:

Well I am going to just dampen it down and put it in one on my etching tanks with some ater on the bottom.. Hopefully this will do the trick. This is the biggest pain in the neck I have ever had browning ANYTHING..

So as soon as I know if it works or not I will let you know..Usually it takes like a week or so around here, but this is over two weeks and I am still not rusted right..#@%^&*&**&& it!!

JPH

 

[54JNoll]

I use a damp box or humidity box to kick start stuff especially in the winter. You can use it in the summer too and carding only every 12 hours to get a very textured surface.

My notes ...

In its simplest form it is nothing more than a box with a lamp installed. It can be made very complex with thermostats to control temp as well as devices to precisely control humidity also. Fortunate for our purposes we can get by quite nicely with the simple box.

This box requires a couple 1X2 boards, a sheet if paneling or 1/8inch plywood, a dowel rod, lamp kit, and screws. The dimensions are 12 inches wide by 12 inches high by 48 inches long. With this box you can brown all but the longest of custom barrels. Use the 1X2’s to form the framework and screw the bottom and sides to the frame. Some only scrap or even plastic sheeting can be used for the ends (the whole box can also be enclosed with black plastic and simply set in the sun). The last piece forms a lid that can be made to set into the frame with the aide of 1X2’s set to the inside of the frame or you can use a hinge. Install the lamp kit in the left-right center of the box through a side-wall but below the up-down center. You want to be able to get the bulb in and not have it touch the bottom of the box but you also do not want it too close to the barrel. Use a 25-watt light bulb. Install two dowels over and to side of the light. Attach some aluminum foil across the dowels to diffuse the heat from the bulb to allow more even heating in the box. Aluminum cake pans with water or wet rags can be placed in the bottom of the box to either side of the bulb to provide moisture to raise the humidity. To more dowels should be hung just below the lid to support the barrel. Small 2X4 scrap can be affixed to the box or placed on the bottom to hold small parts. Adding either heat or moisture will speed up the rusting process and make the solution more aggressive. Applying both makes it even more so. By controlling which you add you can very the color and texture of the finish. It is also a good way to kick start the process.

 

[gmww]

It usually takes me about three days for the finish I want. I don't have a box. Instead I'll leave it off to the side in the kitchen with a kettle of water on simmer. Put's enough humidity in the air. I have also used the bathroom and filled the tub with hot water and let the barrel sit in a corner away so it doesn't get too soaked with steam.

 

JN and GM:

I just threw some water in the bottom of one of my etching tanks and then hanged the barrel and parts in there. I just never had so much heartache trying to brown anything before in my life... and I know why this is, cause this project is for me..Now if I was browning a dosen hawks or axe heads, it would go slick as can be with no problems at all... but since this is my OWN project..the Gremlins are messing with me...Just the way things go around here...I am sure you all know what I am talking about.

Using the tanks I already have will work fine..I just didn't want to have to resort to moving etchant but it's easier than builing a box...

Sometimes you eat the bear..sometimes the bear eats you I guess...

It's like I always said...experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted...

JPH

 

[Treerat]

If you can find someone that still has some,the old Wahkon Bay brown formula would eat metal alive if you let it go as it was acid based. When used as per the instructions it left a result just like LMF. Might try an E-Bay search.

 

Hello:

Ok.....now I applied the re-agent, hung them in my tank with some water to help with the humidity problem and well...now the things are black...what did I do wrong and how do I correct it?? I sure hope I don't have to go down to beare metal and start all over...

Ya know this rifle is really living up to its name of "The Pariah"...

I have never had so much trouble browning ANYTHING like I am on this...

JPH

 

[crgabel]

Do you still want me to send you the material we had talked about or hold off till you see how it goes??

Hey you have a great website, I may need a dagger soon

Craig

 

[Roy]

Don't mess with it, give it a while and see what it does. I've had them green, black, even a copper color, just leave it and let it work.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Anonymous,

If you are getting a CU coloring, you are putting way too much on.
Most people do. It only takes a dampened piece of cloth or patch material. Just barely dampen the metal.
I live in AZ where the humidity today is about 9%, so I use a sweatbox.
I brown a barrel in 2 days, with lots of texture. So dark chocolate, it's almost purple. A thing of beauty.

It's NOT the chemical. It's (no offense) user error. It' really great stuff.
Good Luck
:redface: :v

 

[gmww]

I've had mine turn black but later to a dark brown as it dried out. Put it away for a day or two and forget about it. I've also used a heavy course cloth that seems to wipe the black off when wet.