browning solutions

[corey012778]

I am getting ready to brown an barrel. I was on dixie. saw dixie browning solution.

Has anyone used this stuff?

 

[Headhunter]

Sure haven't, I like Danglers the best.

HH

 

[rwsjr]

I used LMF solution. Worked great!

 

[David Shaw]

Tru Brown. Also did a homemade solution with bleach. Gave the barrel that aged gray patina look.

 

[Zonie]

Go real easy using bleach.
IMO unless you want a pitted "aged" look stay away from bleach.

I "aged" this Confederate reproduction pistol using bleach and in less than 10 minutes time this was the result:

Far from being a nice smooth uniform brown that most people are after this pistol looks like it was left out in a dirt field for a year.
That was exactly what I wanted for this gun but I don't recommend it for a nicely made rifle.

 

[corey012778]

I order both the dixie and lmf. I know a can get a lot of help with lmf. I am going to see how the dixie solution works on an steel rod that I have.

 

[corey012778]

Go real easy using bleach.
IMO unless you want a pitted "aged" look stay away from bleach.

I "aged" this Confederate reproduction pistol using bleach and in less than 10 minutes time this was the result:

Far from being a nice smooth uniform brown that most people are after this pistol looks like it was left out in a dirt field for a year.
That was exactly what I wanted for this gun but I don't recommend it for a nicely made rifle.

not what I am looking for. lol pretty cool thou.

I am browning an barrel for an cva hawkens. this is going to my first try at this. I got an 54cal barrel in white from deer creek. I have an 50cal for the same gun browned by a member of the forum.

 

[Zonie]

For large items like a barrel I do not recommend using Birchwood Casey Plum Brown.

This stuff is great for small items like steel butt plates, lock plates, hammers etc but it is a real chore to get a large item like a barrel to have a nice uniform look.

Also the BC PB does not change the surface texture to a nice soft smooth look. It browns the metal as it is. Said another way, if the barrel has been polished the Plum Brown will brown it leaving a shiny brown surface.
Real "Browning" is not highly polished.

The slow rust methods are, IMO much better for large items.

 

[David Shaw]

Zonie I used a diluted concotion. Took a good bit longer than 10 minutes lol. I'll get a picture of mine to post as it looks quite a bit different form yours.

 

[mazo kid]

I "aged" this Confederate reproduction pistol using bleach and in less than 10 minutes time this was the result:

That was exactly what I wanted for this gun but I don't recommend it for a nicely made rifle.

Like you, I wanted an aged/used look for my brand new Uberti Colt. I think the length of time the bleach is on the metal makes a big difference in the appearance too. I put it on the brass parts also, and it took away the shine. Steel wooled the grips to take away the "new" look. Emery

 

[David Shaw]

Ok the upper barrel was done with the TruBrown, the lower with bleach. The only gun I ever saw done in plum Brown had a completely different look. One that imo didn't suit a traditional muzzleloader at all. But that's just my opinion.

 

[mykeal]

I've not used Dixie's brand, but I have used both the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown and the Laurel Mountain Forge solution on both small parts and entire barrels. They are very different in application but the results are quite similar.

With Plum Brown there are two keys: clean metal and the right temperature. The key with LMF is lots of humidity.

I don't really understand Zonie's comment about not using Plum Brown on large parts - perhaps the issue is getting a large part to the right temperature in a uniform manner. It takes patience, and timing is important. I use a propane torch and heat uniformly with long, slow strokes; I put the barrel on a dowel in a vise so I can rotate it slowly as well.

I've also found that Plum Brown is not difficult to 'repair' if you do get a non-uniform result (I learn by making mistakes). Local heating (again, slowly) and application of more solution with Q-tips on the light area works well.

As far as a 'too smooth' finish, yes, PB will return the finish on the barrel that you start with, and LMF will give you a more 'antique', or rougher surface (depending on how you card it). If you want the rougher surface with PB, just finish with 220 grit wet sandpaper before browning.

 

[mazo kid]

I have browned a couple of rifle barrels and also a couple of pistol barrels along with small parts using BC Plumb Brown. For the barrels, I started with the breechplug removed, barrel suspended vertically by a wire through an underlug. Then the propane torch is applied with the flame directed up inside the (de-greased) barrel....like a chimney. It only takes a few seconds and the entire barrel is heated up uniformly. Then swab on the solution in long continuous strokes, continue carding and applications until you get the finish you desire.

 

[BillinOregon]

I have a batch of Waukon Bay brown I plan to use eventually.

 

[Newtire]

A friend & I used the bc brown & a propane torch on each end of a barrel once. We couldn't open the garage door soon enough once we put the stuff on. It pays to read the instructions! Thought we were goners when the fumes filled the room.

 

[pooch156]

I am getting ready to brown an barrel. I was on dixie. saw dixie browning solution.

Has anyone used this stuff?

Yes, I've used it on two barrels & associated parts. I was pleased with the results.