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browning...........

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kaintuck

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completed the barrel browing....but after the baking soda wash....then the 24hr motor oil bath, then waxing will I stop having slight brown on cotton cloth when I wipe the barrel?
It is slight, but still some?
I wiped her down again, then took a small amount of TC bore butter and coated the barrel......what should I expect???
 
Had the same problem using baking soda....now use ammonia w/ no after rust....Fred
 
browberral2.jpg


so you wash with ammonia AFTER browning?? tell me more :surrender: as i still have sister's rifle to brown :idunno:
 
as has been noted baking soda is generally not enough, you need a stronger base to neutralize the acids (including nitric) in the browning solution.
Also as noted ammonia works as one of the best but if you have problems with it you can also use lye, here's a list of places to obtain ithttp://candleandsoap.about.com/od/coldprocesssoapmaking/a/lyesources.htm, you can use quick lime available from most farm stores, or you can often find WASHING soda in the laundry section of larger grocery stores. Washing soda is a much stronger base than regular baking soda thus works better at neutralizing the acids.
Just add water to either quick lime or washing soda and make a fairly thick, but still somewhat runny slurry.
One other thing is BEFORE using any of the neutralizers wash your piece well with water several times, this dilutes the acids and makes them easier to neutralize. After using also wash well with water.
Of course when using any of the above chemcicals wear a good pair of chemical gloves (available from most hard ware stores these days), and a good full face shield or at leasat some goggles, a rubber apron is not a bad idea.
Now I know that the safety measure sounds like overkill but get splattered, especially on the face and eyes and you can get seriously chemically burned or lose your eyesight - handling even washing soda you'll notice how your fingers feel slick - it's cause these bases are caustic and burn you. A few seconds of precaution can safe you a life time of regrets.
 
I haven't heard about the 24 hour motor oil bath and then wax- please tell how this is done. Thanks.
 
crockett said:
I haven't heard about the 24 hour motor oil bath and then wax- please tell how this is done. Thanks.
in the instructions, it tells that these two steps are needed~but I still am wondering myself it she will STOP browning......even after washing with ammonia~ :confused:
 
All I do is "paint" the ammonia on the bbl for a couple of minutes and then rinse. Small parts are submersed in the ammonia for a couple of minutes and rinsed. A light rubbing w/ 0000 steel wool saturated w/ Oxyoke 1000, a wipe off and a coat of the Oxyoke stuff and I've never had after rust....Fred
 
i finished a barrel this weekend, i did 7 coats, and washed it off with hot water, and vinager. i wiped it down with olive oil afterwards, and it's not rusted yet. your's looks very good!
 
Pretty sure vinegar is an acid... the object is to neutralize the acid. Using vinegar will just add more acid to the equation.

Interesting though, I didn't know ammonia was a base until I saw this. Sounds like ammonia is the way to go. :thumbsup:
 
kaintuck,
If you are still having issues with the browning not being neutralized, you may have to degrease/dewax, then neutralize the browning solution with ammonia or other base of your choosing. Then oil and wax again. The ammonia may not be able to get to the acid through the oil and wax
 
I posted the same problem last month, still had rust after 2 washings w/baking soda. When I painted on the ammonia as was suggested, problem solved!
 
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