buffing tc trigger sear to make lighter pull

[george tennant]

have tc renegade with creepy hard pull, older feller (60 ish) at range said use cloth buffing wheel on grinder or dremal on sear ,trigger ,hammer to smooth everything up instead of using stones .not verygood or have the stones .enybody ever try the buffing wheel method?

 

[BrownBear]

Haven't ever tried lightening a ML trigger, but have done a whole lot of work on cartridge guns, especially levers and revolvers. The thought of using a wheel makes my skin crawl and makes me doubt the wisdom of your source. It looks like a "shotgun" approach to moving metal when precision is called for. The places that generally need work are very small and need sharp angles to work well, neither of which is in the nature of a wheel, no matter how small or what you put on it. Worse yet, moving metal in the wrong places can easily create an unsafe condition.

I'd look for another expert who really knows that trigger, and I'd count on the work being done with a good set of trigger stones rather than a wheel. In this case, I don't think age has added much wisdom to your source.

 

[Ed Wingenroth]

Do NOT use a buffing wheel on any critical surface !!! It is an uncontrolled process and will destroy any crisp edges needed to produce the desired effect”¦.

Buy the necessary flat “stones” and if you must, hone the edges to a sharp and smooth profile but first, make sure that you have cleaned and lightly lubricated the contact points. Often old oil or grease will affect the smooth action of the lock ..

Most of the time you can reduce the trigger pull by using a lighter trigger return spring.. That should be the only part that should be reworked..

When you think you are getting close, “thump” the butt on the floor to ensure the release sensitivity is not too much..

Good Luck !!!

 

[BrownBear]

You reminded me of a stunt I learned in the first gun shop I worked in as a kid, Redwing.

Before moving any metal on a candidate gun, the cagey old smith would rub both sear surfaces with hard paraffin to fill any roughness and provide a slight bit of lube effect. If the customer (almost always the case) liked the effect and improvement, then he'd settle down to polish the surfaces. Saved a lot of folks a lot of money and grief just to be able to "test drive" that new trigger, and see if in fact the expense of a stone job was really going to improve things to their satisfaction.

And to reiterate on the points you made about crisp and sharp you made, we're not talking about removing much metal to smooth a trigger. It calls for very fine, very small stones. And like as not, burs around the pivot pins are as much a culprit for rough and hard triggers as the sear itself. Be sure to polish the flat sides of the parts as well as the sear surface itself.

 

[selvinman]

Just my two cents worth. Consider buying a Davis replacement set trigger. Best money I ever spent upgrading my TC Hawken. Track of Wolf about 40 bucks. :thumbsup:

 

[FishDFly]

Yep, Davis trigger is the answer, proud owner of 3 of them.

RDE

 

[Zonie]

... anybody ever try the buffing wheel method?

A few years ago I made a post about this.
Follow the link, and pay special attention to my comments about the direction of buffing.

BUFFING A SEAR AND TUMBLER