Building a 15th century arquebus matchlock

[GeorgeHayes]

Hello to all.

I was recently inspired by the simplicity of the arquebus matchlock gun and decided that it would be a brilliant project to try and build one.

Now, ive seen the replica I aspire to accomplish:[url] http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Vault/1945/Guns/Mgonne.htm[/url]

To me it looks all very simple. A wooden stock, barrel and a serpentine trigger mechanism. Nothing much to it.

Now, if anyone could answere my following quetions I would be greatful:

- What wood would be best to use for the stock?
- What metal should I use for the barrel - A thick steel pipe?
- How can I make a serpentine lock?

This lock is very expensive for what it is and i'd like to make one my self (From scrap metal of course)

So, any of you have any ideas on what can be used for a serpentine?

Now, this replica doesn't have to be 100% authentic, just able to fire ok.

Thanks.

 

[Stophel]

A simple matchlock would be very easy to make from scratch.

Some folks do use seamless steel tubing for barrels, but unless you are really set up for barrel making, I would just buy a barrel.

For a european looking gun, a good wood to go with is ash. European ash and American ash are virtually indistinguishable. Beech would also be fine (ash is not the easiest wood to work with, however, neither is beech). Walnut would be OK.

You could use plain maple or birch and PAINT the stock (I've seen more than one 17th century English gun painted brown).

 

[GeorgeHayes]

Thanks ^

I may look into buying a barrel, I'll check ebay.

How much would I be expected to pay for a barrel? And where is a good place to get them at affordable prices?

I'm gonna have to get the measurements down, so for the barrel its gonna be 26 inches.

Whats a good size for the length of the stock? Width?

Thanks.

 

[benvenuto]

Get a book with good illustrations of Arquebuses - "Blackmores "Guns and Rifles of the World" is cheap and readily available. Photocopy or scan one of the pictures, (blow it up I mean) and you can draw a grid over the copy at your desired scale and go from there.

Most of the illustrations state the barrel length in inches so thats the basis for your grid.
from there make a stock pattern out of plywood (or perspex as some on the board are fond of using) and see how it feels. You might even wanna go for a 3-d pattern in cheap pine or hard foam before tackling the real gun stock.

The Dutchman is correct about painting the stock - very common for early guns made from plain wood. They were also veneered in staghorn somtimes, or covered in leather, or even velvet (only one surviving example I have seen, but many historical reffernces).

Good Luck

 

[mikelange]

If all you're interested in is a shooter, with strict historical correctness not a necessity -- most of the early guns, up through the flintlock era, were smoothbores. A single-shot shotgun barrel, 28" or 30" long (32" if you can find it), can be made to work for a muzzleloader, at much less cost than a good used muzzleloading rifle or musket barrel. Just an idea.

 

[Stophel]

Track of the Wolf sells tons of their 20 ga. smoothbore barrels. I think they're about $140 or so. I don't know why you need the barrel to be only 26". It could be cut down, of course.[url] www.trackofthewolf.com[/url]

 

[GeorgeHayes]

Thanks everyone ^^^^^

I've just found a big chunk of wood so i'm gonna making a mock up model of the stock.

Im guessing there was no 'stricked' size for stocks back then was there?

Can anyone give me any aprox measurements?

Thanks.

 

[robinghewitt]

Can anyone give me any aprox measurements?

Unfortunately no arquebus has survived so you can make it any size you like and nobody can say you're wrong.

Some might say look to the Japanese guns as they are based on a 1500 Portugese model, but I have a European 15th century gun lock and it doesn't look anything like a Japlock :hmm:

Good luck :rotf:

 

[GeorgeHayes]

Ummmmm.....

Whats the average thickness of a flintlock musket then? 3 inches maybe?

I guess the only surviving parts are the locks and barrels then..

I'll have a muck around for the minute.

 

[robinghewitt]

The Mary Rose pattern from 1520 is about the earliest survivor, that would be about two and one eighth inches thick :thumbsup:

 

[robinghewitt]

My lock is the only one I know of dated to the fifteenth, don't know of any musket barrels. Could be you have to look at the old wood cuts and interpret them as best you can :hmm: :hatsoff:

 

[GeorgeHayes]

I'll keep researching ^^


Now, how exactly do I plug up the breech end of the barrel?

Any info on that would be great.

 

[benvenuto]

Use an approved threaded breach plug from Dixie Gun Works, Track of the Wolf or any other reputable manufacturer.

Track of the Wolf

A nice model for you to follow:
Historic Enterprises

 

[GeorgeHayes]

Yeah, they do seem affordable ^


Just about finished the serpentine lever :grin:

I'll have to find a seamless steel pipe now...

 

[Zonie]

IMO, if you plan on shootning this gun, you really should try to find a real muzzleloading barrel.
Go to the local pawn shops or gun shops and look/ask around. There is a good possibility that an old CVA or Juker is laying around and if you offered them $50 they might be willing to sell it.

The problems with using "seamless tubing" are many.
First off, the seamed tubing looks almost like the seamless unless you know what to look for.

Second, finding seamless tubing with the thick wall you should be using is not easy to do.

Third, if the tubing is made out of a material like 1018 or 1020 it is not very strong.

Fourth, Threading the breech for a breech plug is not easily done without the proper tools.

Fifth, finding a breech plug that will fit properly may be a problem.

Sixth, if there is anything wrong with numbers one thru five, the thing could kill you.

 

[GeorgeHayes]

Second, finding seamless tubing with the thick wall you should be using is not easy to do.

Third, if the tubing is made out of a material like 1018 or 1020 it is not very strong.

Fourth, Threading the breech for a breech plug is not easily done without the proper tools.

Fifth, finding a breech plug that will fit properly may be a problem.

Sixth, if there is anything wrong with numbers one thru five, the thing could kill you.

I'm gonna making sure its thick enough. I think I can trust my friend to get hold of quality steel.... I hope :hmm:

Hope I can get it threaded already.

 

[GeorgeHayes]

OK, I've just made the serpentine, looks all good I've made a temorary pan too.

I'm in the process of cutting out a stock blank from a very thick piece of wood.

The only thing left now to get is the barrel.

 

[robinghewitt]

Hope I can get it threaded already.

You can submit an un-plugged ML barrel for proof at London, pay the hutting charge and they will fit one for you :thumbsup: