Building a Pecatonica Tennessee Classic Longrifle

[PathfinderNC]

Some easier tasks are done this morning; the toe and side plate are on.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Bob,
That mainspring is really wrong. I suspect that it was made from Siler cast parts but not by Chambers, which is not uncommon. The only solution is to heat and bend the spring or get a replacement, preferably from Chambers so you know it will be right. Unless the kit is from Chambers, you have no guarantee the Siler lock was assembled by Chambers. For me, it would be a 5 minute fix with time reserved for heat treating. If you want to send me the lock to me, I'll fix no charge except for cost of shipping.

dave

dave

 

[PathfinderNC]

Hi Bob,
That mainspring is really wrong. I suspect that it was made from Siler cast parts but not by Chambers, which is not uncommon. The only solution is to heat and bend the spring or get a replacement, preferably from Chambers so you know it will be right. Unless the kit is from Chambers, you have no guarantee the Siler lock was assembled by Chambers. For me, it would be a 5 minute fix with time reserved for heat treating. If you want to send me the lock to me, I'll fix no charge except for cost of shipping.

dave

dave

Dave that is extraordinarily generous of you. I will contact the customer and ask him. I sent him photos and explained the situation and he said there is a gunsmith near him who can fix it. I will contact you as soon as I hear from him regarding your offer to help.
He got the lock from Pecatonica, where all parts but the barrel came from. I have no idea how they do things.
Again, your generosity is wonderful and really appreciated.
Best wishes,
Bob
p.s.; Dave I sent you a private message.

 

[COTNTOP]

All this is so good, learning a lot from this. Can you make this build last until Christmas. JUST KIDDING

 

[PathfinderNC]

All this is so good, learning a lot from this. Can you make this build last until Christmas. JUST KIDDING

LOL if it took that long my customer might swat me with the hickory stick! But thanks and I am super happy that you are enjoying this build- I am, too

 

[Darkhorse]

Here is another opinion I'm sure you don't want to hear...Why don't you take that lock apart and find and fix the problem yourself? Then give it a good polishing before handing it over to your customer? The more you know about locks and how each part works will behoove you. I want my locks to work as slick and fine as possible and that includes mating with the trigger.
I would not think of handing one of my rifles over to a customer without tuning the lock and expecting him to get someone else to fix it.
That's almost like getting a new guitar that won't play.

 

[Darkhorse]

BTW I'm not dissing you. I saw photos of some of your rifles and I think you are doing real good at this point in your building. Continue to work on the stock carving and you will be one of the good ones.

 

[PathfinderNC]

Here is another opinion I'm sure you don't want to hear...Why don't you take that lock apart and find and fix the problem yourself? Then give it a good polishing before handing it over to your customer? The more you know about locks and how each part works will behoove you. I want my locks to work as slick and fine as possible and that includes mating with the trigger.
I would not think of handing one of my rifles over to a customer without tuning the lock and expecting him to get someone else to fix it.
That's almost like getting a new guitar that won't play.

No thanks, and the mainspring situation is being resolved and the customer is very satisfied.
I am not a locksmith and would not experiment locksmithing on a customer's gun.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I was happy after installing the sights on the barrel so that I could finally get working on some of the stock. After rasping down the chunk of wood on the butt stock to a workable thickness, I started shaping around the lock mortise and went rearward. I followed the lock panel shape that Pecatonica has on their website for this rifle. It seems a little rounder for the lock I am using but I think it will look fine. The wrist will get more wood off the top, but that will wait untill the whole rifle is pretty much carved out.
Because they didn't include the rear entry pipe, I will have to hold-off on working north of the lock. While waiting that part, I can at least dress up the trigger guard.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I received the Rear Entry pipe and a replacement trigger guard, so it was back to this project today (I broke the first trigger guard trying to get it to fit. Cast steel is unforgiving...
The issue I am having with this particular trigger guard from Pecatonica is that I cant see how it can be bent (using heat next) to actually fit this stock shape! As the rear flat sits square on the bottom of the stock, the forward flat is 1/4" off. It just doesn't seem right. Even if I bend the rail, it will not sit flat. Bending it at the rear post would not either.
I am at a loss at this point and may suggest using a different style trigger guard than what Pecatonica sent. The Southern Mountain Style guard sold by TOW looks like it would be a pretty workable fit. It's frustrating!

 

[PathfinderNC]

I somehow anticipated something like this.
Interestingly, the second trigger guard broke at exactly the same spot as the first one.
I heated the rail of this second trigger guard to a cherry red and thought a little effort would bend it.
But bend even a little it would not.
Heck, with that re-curved front bow it would not be even possible to adjust the angle of the forward flat as needed to fit this stock.
Time to try a new style guard.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Wow that's a shame. I hope you have better luck with the one from TOTW.

 

[LawrenceA]

I was curious why there was such resistance in drawing to half and full **** after the first lock test. I had a suspission and put some color transfer (lipstick) on the edge of the mainspring and sure enough it was touching against the inside of the mortise. How did I miss this? I looked at the lock and saw the mainspring was creeping outward, better than a 1/16" inch and not resting square on the tumbler! The customer will have a locksmith make the correction when the rifle is completed.
I was a but surprised at this especially since it is a Chambers lock.
(Note that I did not unassemple the lock to inlet it so no error on the builder's end).

I have an old worn CVA Mountain rifle that does the same thing to the point the mainspring comes off.
I found the nose was not square which I then squared off but more importantly the tumbler was angled. Of course the mainsprong was going to wander. I have slightly reshaped the tumbler. Not sure if it is "fixed".

 

[LawrenceA]

Hi Bob,
That mainspring is really wrong. I suspect that it was made from Siler cast parts but not by Chambers, which is not uncommon. The only solution is to heat and bend the spring or get a replacement, preferably from Chambers so you know it will be right. Unless the kit is from Chambers, you have no guarantee the Siler lock was assembled by Chambers. For me, it would be a 5 minute fix with time reserved for heat treating. If you want to send me the lock to me, I'll fix no charge except for cost of shipping.

dave

dave

Hi Dave
What are you going to do to fix the issue?
I have a similar issue with an old CVA and was wanting to know the correct way of fixing it.

 

[4575wcf]

Maybe start your own thread?

The LC Smith thread exists on another more appropriate forum for those who would care to visit. It is in the Shotgun Forum (not shotgun world) under High End and Specialty Guns--LC Smith Build from Scratch. I have been off it awhile the COVID prevented me from getting any Acraglas for a half year, now I need to get rebooted and going again.

 

[Norman Brooks]

I somehow anticipated something like this.
Interestingly, the second trigger guard broke at exactly the same spot as the first one.
I heated the rail of this second trigger guard to a cherry red and thought a little effort would bend it.
But bend even a little it would not.
Heck, with that re-curved front bow it would not be even possible to adjust the angle of the forward flat as needed to fit this stock.
Time to try a new style guard.

I had the same problem with a little different guard. It broke at the trigger bow. Had a void in it.

I hand forged a mild piece of steel and made it longer to go from the trigger bow to the back piece, copper riveted it and soldered it in place.

 

[LawrenceA]

I somehow anticipated something like this.
Interestingly, the second trigger guard broke at exactly the same spot as the first one.
I heated the rail of this second trigger guard to a cherry red and thought a little effort would bend it.
But bend even a little it would not.
Heck, with that re-curved front bow it would not be even possible to adjust the angle of the forward flat as needed to fit this stock.
Time to try a new style guard.

Looking at the colors it was not hot enough. Remember get it hot enough and it literally flows so it will get soft enough. Well would have

 

[4575wcf]

That is a very nice looking and period correct fix. Seems this iron poor boy guard would not be over difficult to fabricate from mild steel pieces and have TIGed. Maybe that would be more cost effective than fighting the problematic casting in the long run.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I had the same problem with a little different guard. It broke at the trigger bow. Had a void in it.
View attachment 95738
I hand forged a mild piece of steel and made it longer to go from the trigger bow to the back piece, copper riveted it and soldered it in place.
View attachment 95742

Beautiful job!

 

[Norman Brooks]

Beautiful job!

Thank you. Maybe you can do a fix like that instead of fighting poor castings...