Building locks

[braintan]

Is it possible to build a superior lock from a siler kit?
I assume (oh oh) that Chambers locks are built from these kits but are properly polished and tuned. Is my assumption right or are there major differences such as hole placement, etc?
When I build I will most likely use a Chambers lock but I am curious.

 

[J.D.]

Is it possible to build a superior lock from a siler kit?

Yes, it is possible to build a superior lock from a Siler kit, however, ya gotta know what your are doing. Not all Siler locks are assembled by the most accomplished builders, so I suggest getting an assembled lock from Chambers and work on it from there.


Take it from someone who has built, or rebuilt a few locks, if you don't know anything about lock geometry, and/or don't have access to good equipment, and/or don't have a working knowledge of heat treating, chances are you won't assemble a lock half as good as one from Chambers.

 

[runningbadger]

Even though the a Siler lock is from Chambers and work great there is still lots that can be done to make them even better. For example aneal the tumbler and make the at rest, half-cock and full cock notches on the same radius to allow the sear to sit in one place. You can turn a bearing radius on the tumbler, this accomplishes two things. 1.Less metal to metal contact with the plate and bridle 2.Lowers the chance that the tumbler will drag on the plate. I have also found that no matter who I buy a lock from the plates are ground flat to a point, if the lock is apart and you put it on a good file(with safe edges) you will see that the plate still has some high spots. I have had great luck with the Siler locks and others from Chambers right out of the box, but I now tend to make them with a bit of me too.

 

[Vaino]

I've used the Chambers Golden Age and also the Deluxe Siler and the half and full cock sear positions on both are quite close. The sear rest position is closer to the lock bottom than the other 2 positions so the trigger doesn't rattle. When I first started making MLers, the quality of the flintlocks weren't all that good, so I assembled my own from Siler parts. As soon as Chambers came into the market, I've purchased direct from him and have had no problems....Fred

 

[braintan]

Very encouraging responses. I will most surely buy a Chambers but want to try one on my own too.

 

[ol vern]

Very encouraging responses. I will most surely buy a Chambers but want to try one on my own too.

Try one of his builder's lock kits, just take your time and follow his instructions. You can
make up a first class lock :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

IMO the percussion locks are fairly easy if you follow the instructions and are certain to use the correct tap drills and taps.
The most difficult part of the percussion lock is drilling and tapping the hole for the hammer.
The steel they use for the tumbler is really tough and if you let the drill "dwell" without actually cutting it will work harden the steel.
If this happens, drilling deeper and tapping can be a chore.

The Flintlock is another breed though.
Not only do you have the tumbler to deal with but drilling the hole for the frizzen takes a very careful set up. If anything is out of alignment, especially the squareness of the drill with the lock it is very easy to drill thru the lockplate and frizzen and end up missing the bridle on the pan.
Even a little error in this operation will end up with the drill breaking out of the side of the bridle, ruining the pan/bridle casting as well as the frizzen.
Don't ask me how I know. :grin:

The rest of the lock kit just envolves a lot of filing, fitting, sanding, more filing, heat treating by hardening and tempering and ...

All in all, I've built several Siler locks from the kits and they turned out (IMO) very well.
Give it a try.