looking for a maxi ball and patch lube that will stand up to this az heat.I use bore butter now that turns into soup. Does anyone know of something that will be just as effective, but will stay stable in the arizona heat
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bullet & patch lube
- Thread starter ffg
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Second one down for patches. Third one down for a Maxi-Ball.
Stumpy's Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
Stumpy’s Moose Marrow
Beeswax 3 oz.
Castor Oil 9 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 1 oz.
Stumpy's Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
Stumpy’s Moose Marrow
Beeswax 3 oz.
Castor Oil 9 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 1 oz.
I was going to suggest a simple beeswax/olive oil mix, until I read Stumpy's Moose Marrow recipe. If I shot any kind of conical bullets, I would try that.
Stumpkiller, any idea what the witch hazel does in your recipe? I've heard of it, but don't know what it is, or what it adds to the lubes. I use a mix that is close to your Moose Juice, but with no witch hazel. Just curious. Bill
Stumpkiller, any idea what the witch hazel does in your recipe? I've heard of it, but don't know what it is, or what it adds to the lubes. I use a mix that is close to your Moose Juice, but with no witch hazel. Just curious. Bill
It makes the lubes "smear" better and stick to the metal without beading up. I did tests on bare steel plates (and mirrors) looking for good adhesion.
Can't take credit for the discovery. The tip came from SuperFlint, who hasn't posted in some time.
Can't take credit for the discovery. The tip came from SuperFlint, who hasn't posted in some time.
ohio ramrod
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I use a mixture of beeswax and lard in Ohiosummer I use 80% lard 20% beeswax. Below freezing pure lard. For your higher heat I would suggest a 50/50 blend. :hmm: :hmm:
Pete Gaimari
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Another option if you just want to buy it.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/cate...?catid=2&subid=25&styleid=67&partnum=lube-spg
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/cate...?catid=2&subid=25&styleid=67&partnum=lube-spg
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I've tried alot of the the things all you guys mentioned, but not to many things will stand up to a day at the range, or shooting in the desert when the temp is 105-115, and if you leave any thing in the garage over night you can pour it out the next day, especially wax, iam originally from upstate n.y. where i never had this problem, and all this is new to me :cursing:
Melt some beeswax over very low heat and add the bore butter until it stiffens up to where you want it. If it's too stiff add a little olive oil.
ffg said:
Don't know about the conicals but if you use Neatsfoot oil for patches its always a liquid.
Pan lubing (putting the bullets in a small cake pan then pouring in enough lube to cover the grooves) with SPG Bullet Lube might work with the Maxi's but you need a cutter to get them out of the cake of lube. Casting SPG raises its melt temp over running it through a luber/sizer. It will still melt if allowed to heat soak in the sun. Its hard to have it both ways. Lubes that work best are pretty soft at room temp so ?
Never heat beeswax or a lube with beeswax unless using a double boiler. Excess heat will change the beeswax and cause lubrication problems.
Dan
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Yep, home made lube that will stand up to third coast country in the summer time is hard to brew.
Bees can even get upset and start trying to cool the combs.
Bees can even get upset and start trying to cool the combs.
Fred_Dwyer
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Not to mention risk fire, injury and possible death.
No kidding, you don't want a pot of hot wax to burst into flames and smoke; the wifey person will surely kill ya.
The guy i got the lube pill recipe from lives in the Mojave desert and i live in the San Joaquin valley. The lube pills hold up well in the heat. they soften up some but don't melt. At home i keep the lube in the refrigerator and when shooting i keep a rag over the lube to keep it out of direct sun light. The wax is not the lube it is the Carrier the lube is tallow, lard, Crisco,olive oil,neatsfoot oil, lanolin,etc.
I have tried more patch lubes than I can count or remember. The worst, by far, chicken fat. Almost as bad, Crisco. Many formulas out there, I won't knock any except to say I don't see any point in adding alcohol to anything as it evaporates so quickly it contributes nothing to the final product.
Currently, I am using a mixture of beeswax and peanut oil. Peanut oil is slickery and it has a very high tolerance to temperature.
You can vary the thickness/viscosity or hardness by using different ratios of beeswax to the oil. By doing that you can use for both applications, patch or bullet. I'll add this idea. To make more tolerable to your desert heat, you can add stearic acid. It is really a very hard wax that is used in candle making. Readily available from candle making suppliers.
Currently, I am using a mixture of beeswax and peanut oil. Peanut oil is slickery and it has a very high tolerance to temperature.
You can vary the thickness/viscosity or hardness by using different ratios of beeswax to the oil. By doing that you can use for both applications, patch or bullet. I'll add this idea. To make more tolerable to your desert heat, you can add stearic acid. It is really a very hard wax that is used in candle making. Readily available from candle making suppliers.
Pete Gaimari
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How about leaving the lube in a cooler, and lubing the Maxi right before loading it?
Of course this is for range work. Not sure what to do for your hunting. We don't have heat like that here. Most of the time i'm trying to keep the lube from freezing.
Of course this is for range work. Not sure what to do for your hunting. We don't have heat like that here. Most of the time i'm trying to keep the lube from freezing.
Patch lube is no problem, if it melts it still stays in the cloth so you just have a liquid lube which many people prefer anyway. :haha:
Bullet lube IS a problem and always has been, there were as many different lubes used in blackpowder cartridges as there were ammo makers and hand loaders. Modern bullet casters use some hard lubes which won't melt at high temps but BP needs a soft lube to shoot clean and accurately. I've used straight deer tallow but that will certainly melt on a bright sunny day. Even at air temps of 70 degrees sun on the barrel will get it too hot to handle.
Rifleman 1776 makes a good point with the stearic acid, it certainly does make wax candles stand up to lots of heat. How it may affect the other properties of the lube though I have no idea, could it perhaps be acidic?
The cooler idea will work at the range and perhaps you could load a wad under the bullet to keep melted lube from contaminating the powder.
Bullet lube IS a problem and always has been, there were as many different lubes used in blackpowder cartridges as there were ammo makers and hand loaders. Modern bullet casters use some hard lubes which won't melt at high temps but BP needs a soft lube to shoot clean and accurately. I've used straight deer tallow but that will certainly melt on a bright sunny day. Even at air temps of 70 degrees sun on the barrel will get it too hot to handle.
Rifleman 1776 makes a good point with the stearic acid, it certainly does make wax candles stand up to lots of heat. How it may affect the other properties of the lube though I have no idea, could it perhaps be acidic?
The cooler idea will work at the range and perhaps you could load a wad under the bullet to keep melted lube from contaminating the powder.
hanshi
Cannon
I would suggest Hoppes #9 Plus BP lube as it is a liquid and not much affected by temperatures. If you're worried about lube melting, just use an op wad and that will nip that in the bud by preventing it from reaching the powder. Almost anything wet or greasy can be used as patch lube with at least some success, even plain water.
Old hanshi is right. I shoot in Az. much of the year as well as the cold Northern Rockies. Hoppies #9 BP+ works just fine. Stay away from the lards, cooking oils heavy soaps. They seem to be popular in the humid east but fail in the arid west. Do you ever shoot at the range in Bouse,Az LA Paz Co.?? :grin:
