Burning my patches

[Shooey]

Hello all, I'm burning up patches in my .50 GPR. I'm using Wal-Mart ticking and Lehigh Valley lube. If I dampen the patches right before loading they come out great, and I"m getting 1 1/2 to 2 inch groups at 50 yards from the bench as well. :: But the patches that are lubed the night before burn up. :cry:

I'm worried about hunting season when the patch may dry out over the course of a day. :hmm:

Sooo...

Is Moose Snot something I should try, or Crisco? Thanks.

-Shooey

 

[Rebel]

Either one will be better for long term than a liquid lube. I used nothing but Crisco for many moons, but recently received some of Stumpkillers Moose Snot. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but see no reason why it shouldn't work fine.

 

[buckknife]

Keep the moose milk patches in a air tight container of sum kind,or apply right before you shoot.Not pc but you can get little ziplock bags in the craft section at wall mart.Cheap and they come in different sizes.Mine are 2 inch by 3 inch.Ive had sum of super flints cat whiz on patches for 2 weeks in one of these little bags and they have not dryed any at all.
Im back to shooten moose milk lube,superflints cat whiz is the one im sticken with.Right now i cant shoot nuthin because of an eye problem but i will back shooten within a week or so.

 

[roundball]

Hello all, I'm burning up patches in my .50 GPR. I'm using Wal-Mart ticking and Lehigh Valley lube. If I dampen the patches right before loading they come out great, and I"m getting 1 1/2 to 2 inch groups at 50 yards from the bench as well. :: But the patches that are lubed the night before burn up. :cry:

I'm worried about hunting season when the patch may dry out over the course of a day. :hmm:

Sooo...

Is Moose Snot something I should try, or Crisco? Thanks.

-Shooey

If you're open to alternatives, Natural Lube 1000 is outstanding...all I've used for 15+ years

 

[boar]

Shooey I like deer tallow it is free have bunch in frezer keep it there till I need some more. Take nice white fat of deer put in cast iron skillet pour off liquid grease in tin container. when it cools put in empty cap tin. It will get soft but dosen't leak out of tin. I just rub on strip of patching and roll up till i need it works great. I started using Groundhog oil and beeswax You had too add beeswax so groundhog oil would stay a solid when it was warm. deer tallow don't run. I have Bear,Mink,And Groundhog ,They will stay oil at room temp so keep them in frezer so don't get ranicd . Dilly

 

[gordy]

I've had good luck with Bore Butter w/1000 in it.What I use now is dry patching.It's part of the Dutch Schultz Accy. method.I use a 6 to 1 mixture.6 parts water to 1 part soluble machine cutting oil.I cut my patches at the muzzle,so I keep the rolled up strips in a plastic vitamin pill bottle .35mm film containers work better but I don't have any.This type of patch lube dosn't harden up in the cold weather like those with bees wax base.If I'm going to use really heavy powder charges,I pack some hornets nesting down on the powder under the regular patch.

 

[jdixon]

I can second the hornet nest material - no kidding, it works! Best kind are those football size suckers that hang in the trees, other than that, knock down some of those paper wasp hives from under the eaves, they work well too, just don't get as much wadding from them.

 

[Shooey]

Thanks for the replies :master: - I"ve got some things to try.

Boar-Dilly - I'd like to try deer tallow, can you give me details? Just heat it up and pour off the liquid? Thanks, I"ll have to try it.

-Shooey

 

[boar]

Shooey I use a cast iron skillet on gas 2 burner hot plate just put fat in cook just like bacon , you will have some cracklings left for dogs I used grhog and beeswax 1982 till 2oo3 then read about deer tallow family of deer hunters all used it ,so I tried it I like it It is easier to make and is free . I think maybe this is what they used in tallow holes on the stocks ? I keep my grhog gun loaded sometimes 3-4 days before I get a shot I hunt on my place I got 24 with 25 shots had 19 straight before one got in hole I hit it but didn't kill it. you will like the tallow. Dilly

 

[loishd]

Shooey
I use the Lehigh valley lube also and I will some times prelube a strip the night prior. I will take the strip, roll it up and insert into one of those small jelly jars ( the kind the fancy jellies come in) and soak the strip over night. During a long woodswalk the stripe does seem to dry but a small drop of water brings the lubed strip right back.
That in my opinion is what I like the most about Lehigh.
I also carry the patching dry and lube prior to each shot with a small round brass oiling can I picked up at a gun show. It has a very small screw capped spout similar to a 3in1 oil can that allows me just to put on a couple drops at a time.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/mlexperiments/honeylube/honeylube.html

The web site above gives an interesting idea for lubing a patch that I'm planning on trying for starter blocks on woodswalks. :results:

 

[Wehrmacht]

Deer tallow is excellent,and is very period correct if that's important to you.Simply put the fat in a pan,cast iron is best,and heat it over low heat and pour off the oil as it renders out.Not too high with the heat,though.You don't want to scorch it.Feed the cracklins to the dogs? No way! mix it in cornbread and EAT it .

Your patches are actually smouldering after leaving the bore? If so,and since I'm in the timber business,will you please stay up there and not come down here settin' the woods on fire :kid:

 

Hello all, I'm burning up patches in my .50 GPR. I'm using Wal-Mart ticking and Lehigh Valley lube. If I dampen the patches right before loading they come out great, and I"m getting 1 1/2 to 2 inch groups at 50 yards from the bench as well. :: But the patches that are lubed the night before burn up. :cry:

I'm worried about hunting season when the patch may dry out over the course of a day. :hmm:

Sooo...

Is Moose Snot something I should try, or Crisco? Thanks.

-Shooey

Lose the Lehigh Valley lube and switch to Bore Butter or Moose Snot. Never had a problem with Bore Butter. Spent the day, a couple of Saturdays ago, testing Stumpy's Moose Snot. 13 consecutive shots, quick wipe between shots with a damp patch and the bore was clean as a whistle. Recovered prelubed patches looked good enough to use again. Clean up was half the time it normally takes me.

Just :m2c: :results:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Moose Snot will work. I go five shots between wiping, but that's from a very smooth rifled bore - either swaged, lapped or just well shot in. 15 is the most I will dare without wiping in between.

I have used patches dipped twice in my castor oil & Murphy's moose milk that were allowed to sit in a loaded block (hanging from my den wall, exposed to the air) at room temperature for a month before use. The Murphy's and castor are non-volitile oils and stay around long after the water and alcohol have evaporated off. Your results may vary (as the wood of the block may soak up oils if new/pine/untreated, etc.)

But I will guarantee a lightly lubed patch with the Moose Snot will last a week at air temperature in the block.

"Patch Lube" thread (click to go there)