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Calico Question

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m7bacon4

32 Cal.
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Just what exactly is calico? Is the calico I find at my local fabric store at least similar to the callico that shows up on the old trade lists?
 
Most early calico is a heavier wave than modern fabric store calico.

Patterns on printed calico are a real can of worms.

This is a fairly good site, but the fabric weave is modern. http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/

Not bad:
lc624r.jpg


Most early trade samples are simple figures on white, but others like this do show up:
tr711r-l.jpg


This is probably OK
wm717b-l.jpg


This is good:
cy719j-l.jpg


And this:
cy822y-l.jpg


There's a good Museum of the Fur Trade Quarterly article that shows photos of actual trade calico samples.
 
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Yes, that's correct. The early ones were block printed or stamped. Later, when roller printing comes in, simpler patterns were still block printed, because it was cheaper.

The MOFTQ article shows red dogs heads stamped on white, and I think red or dark blue polka dots on white.
 
Another factor in the old fabrics is color availability, which helps date the fabric. IOW it is known what year some specific colors/shades (and patterns) first appeared on cotton fabrics in this country. Some of those color pigments held up over time and some didn't on 100% cotton fabrics. Some even caused the fabric itself to break down and deteriorate sooner than others.

The ex and I used to own a traditional quilting and antique store. So I had to learn alot about the old textiles in order to date and make buys for the store (antique quilts and fabrics) while on business trips all over the country for my own job.
 
Yes, color popularity and certain dyes can be grouped by era. That's true for patterns as well. The old iron based black dyes really rot cotton and silk.

"Double pink" is the best known color combo that fits into a date range. It is patterns in two shades of pink, and is typical of c. 1860-1880, although they existed before that, and are still made.
 
Just Google history of dye and you will come up with some things that will help you determine PC colors for calico for a particular era, or at least hint at some.
 
There are also some excellent books on dating quilt fabrics. :thumbsup:
 
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