howdy, capt'n
i'm a big fan of these because most of my revolvers are way too big to hold-n-load all at the same time.
below are some pic's i've saved over time.. the second is a 'deluxe' version of the first one both made by the same guy and sold on ebay (check availability).. prices are reasonable.. i don't have either.
the third one is the item i actually use now and from my beginnings in 2008 which i got from graf & sons but is also available on dixie for about the same price.. the problem is that it is a little too small for a howdah and was actually designed for... a colt, if i remember correctly (but i can get a LeMat to fit in it as well).
and lastly, on the NMLRA website there is a january 2010 write-up of a stand with all the spec's - wood, measurements, materials, even estimated cost - for what looks very much like the ebay items... there's no patent for any of 'em, so feel free to use whatever you like.. it might be nice to have a deluxe version that included the hinge from the dixie-grafs version...
only the text from the article is included because i saved it as a *.pdf and can't find a way to attach it to this posting which means the pictures and schematics don't carry through.. you can download/print it for yourself as needed.
enjoy and let me know if you need someone to test your products... :thumbsup:
~d~
ps. i do know for a fact that the hammer can be in the loading position for the dixie-grafs model but cannot be sure about that for the ebay versions.
ebay item #1
ebay deluxe item #2
dixie-grafs version
----------text from NMLRA article-----------
(i had to do a 'text conversion' of the *.pdf and it dropped some words, parts of words, and all the illustrations.. oh well, better'n nuttin')
Building a Muzzleloading Pistol Stand by Mark Bond, M.Ed.
The Right Tools for the Job
For years I have been going to the local shooting range and watching other black powder shooters struggle with keeping their pistols pointed safely down range while loading. Some
used a bench top pistol loading stand, while others placed their pistols between their knees and struggled with the mechanics of loading black powder pistols safely. As a former military and law enforcement firearms trainer, I was concerned
with the safety aspects of loading black powder single shot pistols. Many of the shooters designed their own pistol loading stands that had flaws because they were too bulky, used the wrong building materials, were poorly constructed, hard to transport, and difficult to store because they were slapped together with no consideration for esthetics. There were inconsistencies in the designs of the stands and no one had plans they could share at the local range.
My natural curiosity and passion for black powder shooting led me on a journey to find the best construction designs for building a pistol loading stand. I was surprised to find that there was not a lot of information. This article is an attempt to fill that void. It begins with selecting the right tools for the job. A black powder pistol loading stand is a tool that
every traditional pistol shooter should use to enhance range safety and the pleasures of the sport.
Design
Selecting a practical and functional stand for your pistol is the key to getting the greatest performance, safety, and enjoyment.
The designs were selected for their simplicity. Tom Kuhn has two pistol loading stand designs which can be found on his website listed at the end of this article. Tom’s plans are easy
to follow, with good detail on materials and measurements (Kuhn, 2009). I have also created step-by step instructions for making a quality stand. These plans allow for flexibility in modifying the stands designs to fit your specific needs. I caution against adding too many bells and whistles: it will not be long before you
either build another stand or remove the extras. Building a usable, basic stand is cost effective and functional. The best design is the one that is flexible enough to accommodate the different
pistols you enjoy shooting.
Materials
Supplies are easily found at your local hardware store. Pine, ing. Two suggested materials are pieces of used carpet or shelf
liner. I recommend using shelf liner. This is a flexible rubber
material used to line kitchen shelves so that the plates and cups
don’t slide around. Shelf liner is not expensive; it is very flexible
and easy to cut to the desired shape with scissors or a utility
razor. It also molds easily to the contact areas.
Wood glue will be needed to bond (weld) sections together.
By using speed clamp/quick release clamps to hold the pieces
together, you ensure the parts will be held in the proper position
while drying. This is the preferred building method to
ensure a strong bond. Another method is to use small wood
screws. Small wood screws add strength, but be careful not to
split the wood: countersink the holes and hide the screws by
capping the holes with ¼" wood plugs. Glue is also used to
attach the cushion material to the contact spots between pistol
and stand. Use a contact-type cement to attach the cushioning.
Amazing Goop is easy to work with, sets up in about
fifteen minutes, and cures permanently in about four hours.
Material cost is around $20 unless you have some of the
supplies on hand.
poplar, and oak are all easy
to work with and will hold
up through many years of
use if the wood is painted,
stained, or sealed. I recommend
using Minwax
Polyshades stain and polyurethane
to protect the
wood and give it the desired
look; however, the
finish is your decision.
The contact points with
the stand require cushion-
Materials List for Standard Stand (all materials may be purchased at a local hardware store)
Materials Size Qty Approx.Cost
Poplar, Pine, or Oak Wood ¾" X 2 ½" X 24" 1 $2.00
Poplar, Pine, or Oak Wood ¾" X 7 ¼" X 24" 2 $5.00
Minwax Polyshades Stain & Polyurethane 1 Can $4.25
Duck Solid Easy Liner, Shelf Liner Non-Adhesive roll (Light Brown) 1 Roll $4.00
(1’ section is all that is needed; some hardware stores sell in feet.)
Amazing Goop (Contact Adhesive & Sealer) 1 Tube or Can $2.50
Elmer’s Wood Glue 1 Tube or Bottle $2.50
Brass Eyelet .5" loop with 1/16" threads 2 $1.25
Total Project Material Cost $21.50
Muzzle Blasts
Required Tools
Tools Application:
Retractable Tape Measure Measuring
Steel Rule Measuring for straight cuts
Number # 2 Pencil Marking pattern
Universal Saw (hand) Straight cuts
Coping Saw (hand) Making curved and fine cuts
Speed Clamp/Quick Release Clamp Holding wood while you cut and clamp pieces together when gluing
Scissors or Razor Knife Cutting and trimming the cushion material
Glue Brush (small disposable) Applying glue
Stain Brush 1" Head Painting or staining
Sandpaper 80-120 grain Smoothing edges and rough areas
Hand Drill with a wood screw pilot bit 1/16 (Optional) Pilot hole and countersinking screws (if applicable)
Philips Head Screw Driver (Optional ) Installing wood screws
Step 1
Muzzleloading Pistol Stand (Standard)
ID Description Material Size
A Base Poplar, Pine, or White Oak 9.5" X 7.5" X 1" thick
B Main Upright Poplar, Pine, or White Oak 12.5" X 3.5" X 1" thick
C Main Upright Support Poplar, Pine, or White Oak 3" X 2.5" X 1" thick
D Barrel Rest Poplar, Pine, or White Oak 5" X 3.5" X 1" thick
E Pistol Grip Cradle Butt (Back) Poplar, Pine, or White Oak 2" X 1.75" X 1" thick
F Pistol Grip Cradle Side Supports (Sides-Qty 2) Poplar, Pine, or White Oak 3.5" X 1.75" X 1" thick
G Pistol Ramrod Eyelet (Qty 2) Brass .5" loop with 1/16" threads
H Protective Padding Shelf Liner, Non-Adhesive 1’ of material; place where indicated .
Step 1
Lay out your wood and sand any imperfections. Make sure
your wood is clean of all markings such as pen, pencil, pricing
decals, and staples.
Muzzleloading Pistol Stand(Standard) Instructions
Step 2
Measure the
wood for the base,
cut it out, sand
any rough edges,
and set it aside.
The size should
be 9.5" X 7.5" X
1" thick. This is
now Part A.
Step 3
Measure the wood for the main upright,
cut it out, sand any rough edges, and set it
aside. The size should be 12.5" X 3.5" X 1"
thick. This is now Part B.
Step 4
Measure the wood for the
main upright support, cut it out,
sand any rough edges, and set
aside. The size should be 3" X
2.5" X 1" thick.
This is now Part C.
Step 1
Lay out your wood and sand any imperfections. Make sure
your wood is clean of all markings such as pen, pencil, pricing
decals, and staples.
Muzzleloading Pistol Stand(Standard) Instructions
Step 2
Measure the
wood for the base,
cut it out, sand
any rough edges,
and set it aside.
The size should
be 9.5" X 7.5" X
1" thick. This is
now Part A.
Step 3
Measure the wood for the main upright,
cut it out, sand any rough edges, and set it
aside. The size should be 12.5" X 3.5" X 1"
thick. This is now Part B.
Step 4
Measure the wood for the
main upright support, cut it out,
sand any rough edges, and set
aside. The size should be 3" X
2.5" X 1" thick.
This is now Part C.
Muzzle Blasts
Step 5
Measure
the wood for
the barrel
rest. Cut the
piece to 5" X
3.5" X 1"
thick and
lightly sand
any rough
edges. This
is now Part
D.
Step 6
Cut the wood for
the pistol grip cradle
butt (back). Cut the
piece to 2" X 1.75" X
1" thick and lightly
sand any rough
edges. This is now
Part E.
Step7
Cut the wood for pistol grip
cradle side supports: 3.5" X
1.75" X 1" thick and
lightly sand any
rough edges.
This is now Part
F. There are two
sides that should
be identical.
Step 8
Now that all the pieces are cut out, it is time to assemble
them. Take Part E and place a thin line of wood glue on the 1"
sides (2" long sides). Take both Parts F sides and glue them to
Part E. Part F should be on the outside of Part E. Now that the
parts are in place and neatly aligned, take your small speed
clamp/quick release clamp and tighten the parts together firmly.
Wipe any excess glue off the outside of the parts. Let the parts
completely bond (weld) before removing from the clamps. In
about four hours, the glue will cure completely.
Part F
Part F
Part E
apply a little wood
glue to the bottom
of Part B. Align the
marks and place
Part B onto Part A.
Use the large
clamp to hold the
pieces together
while the glue
dries (approx. four
hours). Make sure
the parts are
aligned neatly and
meet at a perfect
90-degree angle,
and wipe off any
excess glue while
it is still wet.
B, 1.75" from either side.
Measure and mark the
center of the base, 3.75"
from either side. Align
the marks so that Part
C is directly centered
on Part B. Take the flat
3" side of Part C and
apply a thin line of
wood glue on the 1"
bottom. Also apply a
thin line of wood glue
on the 2.5" side of Part
Continued
on page 69
Step 9
Take Part B (the main upright)
and place a thin line of wood glue
on the top of one of the 1" ends.
Take Part D (the barrel rest) and
place the back portion on top of
Part B with the barrel cutout facing
outward. Now that the parts
are in place and neatly aligned,
take your large speed clamp and
tighten the parts together firmly.
Wipe any excess glue off the outside
of the parts. Let the parts completely
bond before removing from
the clamps ”“ about four hours.
Step 10
Now that Parts B and D are dried and cured it is time to
attach Part B (the main upright) to the base, Part A. Measure
and mark the middle of the base (3.75" from either side). Now
take Part B and measure the middle of the main upright. The
middle of the upright will be 1.75" from the bottom of the main
upright. Align the center marks on Parts A and B to make sure
that the main upright is sitting on the end of the base (Part A)
in the middle. Now
Step 11
Take Parts E and F. These parts now the pistol grip rest
and attach to the base, Part A. At 1.5" from the back of the base
(Part A) draw a line across the base to mark where the pistol
grip rest will be placed. The back of the pistol grip rest will be
placed on this line when glued. The center of the base is 3.75".
Mark this area with a small X on the base line marking you just
made for the pistol grip rest. The center of the back of the
pistol grip rest is 2" from either end. Place a mark in the center
of the pistol grip rest for alignment with the X in the middle of
the base (Part A). Now apply a thin layer of wood glue to the
bottom of the pistol grip rest. Align the center mark on the
pistol grip rest with the X on the base, Part A. Now use the
large clamp to hold the pieces together for the four hours of
drying time. Make sure the parts are aligned neatly and wipe of
the excess glue while it is still wet.
Step 12
Once the grip rest has cured it is time to take Part C (main
upright support) and attach it to Parts A and B. Measure and
mark the center of Part
Building a MuzzleloadingPistol Stand
continued from page 65
C, which will attach to Part B. Align the
marks and use the large clamp to hold
the pieces together while the glue dries.
Make sure the parts are aligned neatly
and wipe of the excess glue while it is
still wet.
Step 13
Now that the frame is complete, it
is time to paint, stain, or seal the
wood. First make sure that all marks,
glue runs, and blemishes have been
lightly sanded. Apply the wood finish
of your choice and allow to dry
completely. Apply additional coats
if necessary.
Step 14
Now it is time to add the cushioning
(Part H) to the contact areas. Cut and
place cushion in the barrel cutout of Part
D. Glue it in place; I use Amazing Goop.
Repeat the procedure for the grip rest
and Part C.
If you are using shelf liner, cut out a
piece to apply to the bottom of the stand.
This will prevent the stand from ever
sliding on the range bench or your shelf
in your den.
Step 15
The two brass eyelets for holding the
ramrod are optional. Measure your ramrod
and screw in the eyelets carefully
and straight.
Step 16
When everything is dry, head to
the range for some convenient, safe
pistol shooting!
Check out the NMLRA website at
www.nmlra.org for more plans for a black
powder pistol loading stand and a black
powder pistol loading and displaystand. You can also go to Tom’s Woodworking
Plans at http://vbwhiz.isageek.
net/plans/
References
Kuhn, T. (2009). Tom’s Woodworking
Plans. Retrieved September 24,
2009, from
http://vbwhiz.isa-geek.net/
plans/ MB
January 2010
.
