casting lead

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buttonbuck

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well I tried my hand with casting something for the first time, ingots from chilled lead shot someone gave to me after an art project with it, it is fairly old shot. I was wondering I used marvel flux and was wondering how much I should use, I used about a pea size piece for 3 lb of lead a small test I first scraped off dross and then fluxed it seemed clean and shiny. Now Hopefully with this lead I can scratch it with a thumbnail. I figure if all else fails can shoot the stuff I melted in the smoothbore. I used a coleman duel fuel stove worked great. I also have a good quanity of bees wax was wondering how much of that to use after the marvel flux gets used up.
 
I haven't used the Marvel flux (heard it will attract moisture in the pot) but I use a pea sized piece of wax per potful of lead. You don't need to flux more than a couple of times at the most per pot.
 
I melted about 20 pounds of lead last weekend and never fluxed at all. Just make sure to scrape the junk off the top, bottom and sides of the pot occasionally.

Many Klatch
 
Chilled lead shot is about 12 BHN. Pure lead is 5 BHN. If you are using it for PRB I can't comment. For conicals it is too hard unless you plan on sizing them. You will have a very hard time getting them down the barrel. Ron
 
I can scratch the lead ingots with my thumbnail with some pressure is it really that hard, The bag of shot is really old. It seems like it takes the same pressure from my right hand and thumbnail hardness tester as a roundball of pure lead. And yes I was able to scrape the surface of the lead and get the junk off the top, dried latex paint, don,t ask it was from a friends art project.
 
buttonbuck said:
well I tried my hand with casting something for the first time, ingots from chilled lead shot someone gave to me after an art project with it, it is fairly old shot. I was wondering I used marvel flux and was wondering how much I should use, I used about a pea size piece for 3 lb of lead a small test I first scraped off dross and then fluxed it seemed clean and shiny. Now Hopefully with this lead I can scratch it with a thumbnail. I figure if all else fails can shoot the stuff I melted in the smoothbore. I used a coleman duel fuel stove worked great. I also have a good quanity of bees wax was wondering how much of that to use after the marvel flux gets used up.

If you melt it in the smoothbore how do you get the powder in? :rotf: And if you are putting the powder in first you are a gutsy man! :shocked2:
 
Remember how dense lead is. Anything lighter is not going to sink down into it. You have to stir in anything you use to flux. Beeswax and parafin wax are two traditional fluxing agents used in casting lead. It does not take much of either- a small grape sized lump, to flux a 20 lb. pot. It does burn and smoke, so as all casting should be done in a ventilated area, so should putting flux in the lead. The theory goes that in melting and burning off, the flux will draw some of the finer impurities to the surface, where they then can be skimmed off, as you have already done.

Most casters will first melt down " pick-up " lead and pour it into ingots. That allows them to skim off MOST of the impurities and trash that comes with any lead " Picked -up " from wherever.

When the ingots are melted, and are fluxed a second time, the rest of the trash should come off. Thereafter, you will always get an oxidize layer of off-color " skin " on the surface of the molten lead. It was my family's practice to always skim this off periodically, as we never found it contributed anything but grief to the bullets we were casting. As we cast bullets, the level of lead in the pot would drop, and when it was about a third empty, we would add another ingut. When that melted and the lead came up to temperature, we would skim the molten lead and remove the oxides with a stainless steel spoon.While this was going on , the mold was left on the top of the casting pot, on one side, to continue to be heated. Before casting again, we would also dip the mold down into the molten lead for a minute or so, or until the lead fell away from the mold easily, to make sure it was back up to casting temperature. Then we would cast another string of bullets or balls. Steel casting molds can require a lot of effort to keep them up to the right temperature. Aluminum molds are much more quickly heated, and cooled, and require a different approach. I have only very limited experience using brass molds, or brass alloy molds, but I treated them the same way I treated the Aluminum alloy molds and they seemed to cast okay. You do have to pay attention to your casting rhythm with these mold, in order to keep the mold hot enough.

I hope this helps.
 
one way to see if the lead is hard is to pour some from a mould that you KNOW the weight. Like my favorite mould throws 386 gr with soft lead. WIth hard lead it throws 375. The harder the lead the lighter the bullet will be. Ron
 
This would be a good suggestion to weigh them I figure cast the .60 cal and see if they are 320 grains or darn close. THis would mean I need to buy a scale or borrow one.
 
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