Centermark Fusil ramrod

[Blackfingers]

I have the centermark fucil, it needs a proper rammer. It is 62cal/20ga, any length will do, I can cut to fit. Any ideas? Anyone making these? I want one that looks proper to the gun.Thanks for looking, Blackfingers

 

[JohnN]

Get a 48" hickory blank from a vendor such as Track of the Wolf and either a shotgun or ramrod tip and make your own. May require some sanding.

 

[JohnN]

Track also has finished ramrods.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Don't you want one w/ the much larger tapered end on the muzzle end?

 

[Brokennock]

If yours is like mine, the issue becomes the flat taper on the end that goes inside the gun. It is a pain to replicate. There are many vendors of ramrods and ramrod blanks, I haven't found anyone selling a direct replacement with the taper already done.

 

[JohnN]

Those are nice but expensive. Would like to have one for my Tulle but settled for a 3/8 rod with the brass shotgun tip.

 

[JohnN]

Not quite sure what your talking about. Could you post a pic ?

 

[Brokennock]

I won't be able to post a pic anytime soon. My Centermark Tule Fusil de Chase has a skinny ramrod (? 5/16") that tapers at the end which enters the thimbles. But, rather than the usual taper all the way around, like a long cone, being so thin to start with it is only tapered on one side, creating a flattened side at that end of the rod for several inches. I believe this was to clear the front lock bolt as the rod will only enter the stock fully when this flat is up.

Hope this description helps.

 

[AZbpBurner]

A spoke shave, some decaf, a couple of hours of time and a shop vac for cleanup is about all you need.

 

[boxofrocks]

I have tapered a few rods successfully using an electric drill and sandpaper. Keep the shopvac handy and wear heavy gloves - it gets really hot.

 

[nwtradegun]

http://www.periodramrod.com/

 

[rickystl]

This front lock bolt interference with the ramrod seems to be a common problem with these Centermark guns. I thought about sanding a flat area as mentioned to clear the lock bolt. But then you have twist around the rod to find the flat spot when replacing it in the stock. Sort of a minor inconvenience. So here is what I did. Had to make an extreme taper about 4-5" at the bottom. Now I don't have to think about getting the rod in the right position when replacing it in the stock. You just can't load with the palm of your hand.

Rick

 

[Cruzatte]

My rifle seemed to have a similar situation, which the builder anticipated. So he turned shank of the front lock bolt down so the ramrod would clear the bolt. Seems like an easy solution.

 

[JohnN]

A combination of turning the bolt and tapering the rod usually works. Also, smooth bores weren't usually meant for tight loads so stout rods weren't usually needed.