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Chales Daly GM barrel?
- Thread starter KW
- Start date
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:applause: wow thanks for all the great advice i am kinda new to this i have shot b4 and cleaned but never one that was this bad i started with a brush and no real big pieces came out a lot of dust i was getting ready to take it to the tub to really scrub on it and as i pull on my ramrod to remove the brush the tip of my ramrod and jag stayed in the gun and out came my ramrod now i am trying to remove the jag
If you left the cleaning jag (a solid brass cylinder) down in the barrel you can shoot it out by removing the nipple and getting 2-4 grains of powder down thru the flame channel hole that leads to the bore. Then replace the nipple, cap it, point the gun at something that cannot be damaged when something is shot into it and fire the gun.
Another way is to go buy a grease fitting at a auto supply and using finger pressure only, screw it into the nipple hole. Take the barrel to the local lube place and ask them to fill the barrel with grease by pumping it in thru the fitting.
These fixes only work on a solid item that is plugging the bore. They will not work to remove a brush.
If it is a brush that is stuck in the bore go to the hardware store and buy a piece of tubing that will just fit down the bore and is slightly longer than the barrel. For a .45 or .50
caliber barrel buy a 7/16 diameter tube.
For a .32 or a .36 caliber barrel buy a 5/16 diameter tube.
After getting the tube, run it down the barrel until it hits the brush. Then, using a hammer tap it down the bore driving the brush with it.
When the brush hits the bottom, driving the tube further down the bore will cause the brush to enter the end of the tube. Once inside the tube, both the tube and brush can be easily removed from the barrel.
For all of you folks who haven't done this, check the brass end on your ramrod. Most likely it is just stuck on there, sometimes being crimped in place. This is the recipe for trouble.
All metal ramrod ends need to be pinned to the wood with a cross pin.
I copied this from one of my earlier posts:
The mechanical strength of a cross drilled pin is the best way to secure the ramrod tip but only if the pin is made of a small diameter rod.
Many hardware and hobby stores sell 1/16 diameter brass rod and a 1/16 inch drill bit is a common size.
Drill completely thru the ramrod tip about 1/8 inch ahead of the rear of it.
Rotate a pocket knife in both ends of the 1/16 inch hole to form a countersink. Install a piece of the rod thru the hole and use a hammer to peen the ends of the crosspin into the countersinks. Then file the remaining protruding pin material flush with the outside of the ramrod tip.
Another way is to go buy a grease fitting at a auto supply and using finger pressure only, screw it into the nipple hole. Take the barrel to the local lube place and ask them to fill the barrel with grease by pumping it in thru the fitting.
These fixes only work on a solid item that is plugging the bore. They will not work to remove a brush.
If it is a brush that is stuck in the bore go to the hardware store and buy a piece of tubing that will just fit down the bore and is slightly longer than the barrel. For a .45 or .50
caliber barrel buy a 7/16 diameter tube.
For a .32 or a .36 caliber barrel buy a 5/16 diameter tube.
After getting the tube, run it down the barrel until it hits the brush. Then, using a hammer tap it down the bore driving the brush with it.
When the brush hits the bottom, driving the tube further down the bore will cause the brush to enter the end of the tube. Once inside the tube, both the tube and brush can be easily removed from the barrel.
For all of you folks who haven't done this, check the brass end on your ramrod. Most likely it is just stuck on there, sometimes being crimped in place. This is the recipe for trouble.
All metal ramrod ends need to be pinned to the wood with a cross pin.
I copied this from one of my earlier posts:
The mechanical strength of a cross drilled pin is the best way to secure the ramrod tip but only if the pin is made of a small diameter rod.
Many hardware and hobby stores sell 1/16 diameter brass rod and a 1/16 inch drill bit is a common size.
Drill completely thru the ramrod tip about 1/8 inch ahead of the rear of it.
Rotate a pocket knife in both ends of the 1/16 inch hole to form a countersink. Install a piece of the rod thru the hole and use a hammer to peen the ends of the crosspin into the countersinks. Then file the remaining protruding pin material flush with the outside of the ramrod tip.
Mad Professor
50 Cal.
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It depends if the Daly was made, in Spain or, by Investarm in Italy.
The latter is about like fitting the barrel to a Lyman plains rifle. Tang or breech hook might take a few strokes with a file to get barrel to seat, and then it might be a tad hi or low, can fix this with some silver solder and more filing.
The former is a headache.
The latter is about like fitting the barrel to a Lyman plains rifle. Tang or breech hook might take a few strokes with a file to get barrel to seat, and then it might be a tad hi or low, can fix this with some silver solder and more filing.
The former is a headache.
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