Chambers Stock Finish

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I checked their site and got very little is any info. I am going to order their new Flintlock so I may get some finish too just to try.
Jeff
 
Mike Brooks said:
Been using it for years, great stuff! :thumbsup:
Mike, what are the merits of using the Chambers finish as opposed to others? I'm new to this game, just finishing my first muzzleloader. I used boiled linseed oil for the finish on the Lyman Great Plains, and I'm satisfied with the resluts, but am interested in different methods and finishes for my future projects. I'll be working on a Kentucky pistol next.
Scott
 
It's easy to apply and water resistant.I hesitate to say water proof because I don't know 100% if it is or not. BLO on the other hand isn't water resistant at all.
 
I like the hardness of Chambers once its dry. He did add dryers that are not in BLO in most cases and I think it has some other oils in it as well. I used it on a maple rifle and it was very easy to use and create a nice finish. As a medium oil varnish it should be pretty water resistant but not humidity resistant...figure that out. I sealed my fowler with 1# cut garnet shellac (shellac is very humidity resistant but not water proof) and then finished with Chambers...wiped on VERY thinly with fingertips and rubbed with my hands til it set up and then allowed to dry at least 24 hours between coats. Also set it in the sun a couple of days. I haven't used others but hey why leave a winner???? :bow: :thumbsup:

I put a nice coat of Renaissance Wax on as the final coat on wood and metal. That helps the H2O thing as well.
 
I'm curious about it too. I'm ordering some tomorrow based on suggestions I got from the folks here in the past. I'm just about to finish a GPR I'm building for my mom's pastor so I'll get to test it out soon enough.
 
Back
Top