Change of Garb!

[Crewdawg445]

Well...never thought the day would come to dress as an 18th century eastern frontiersman. My heart and sole is Native American living history without a doubt. However, I've always romanticized about having another persona to keep things interesting and as always learn more.

So, I've settled upon a simple representation of an 18th century eastern colonial frontiersman. After conversing with Jas townsend about a few seamstress questions concerning my garb I settled upon period breeches, a few extra shirts (I already make) and a 1750's style waistcoat.

Materials chosen are cotton canvas, linen and osanberg along with an 18th century floral 100% cotton print. I also will be using pewter buttons for fastening the breeches and waistcoat, also making another pair of breeches with bone buttons.

Now I am having a few items made from Jas Townsend to complete my garb and offer a few wearing options. I'm making all the above along with either linen thigh high spatterdashes or elk hide leggings.

Many options are available to build this persona which having the ability to be a seamstress is saving a fortune. I feel very privileged to have learned to sew! Anywho, as of now I'm waiting on my last order of linen thread and buttons to arive! Currently cutting pattern pieces which is the portion of sewing I hate the most... The majority of my fabrics were in awkward sized bolts which required a little math to figure the proper amount of fabrics.

In all, very excited about this small but monumental directional change! Think I'm just more excited to make all the clothing!

 

[Flintlock]

After 20 years of being a backwoods colonist I've decided to make some changes too. My clothing seems to have shrunk over the years and money is tight, so to save money for guns, I've decided I will opt for only a breechclout and moc's. My significant other said she would stay home then so I'll have much less gear to pack, therefore less weight means more gas savings. Heck, she must think it's a good idea, she's packing up ALL my stuff for me now.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Never worn anything but leggings, clout and mocs... However I won't be trading in mocs for shoes! I'm thinking of tailoring my persona as a Native who being mixed just wasn't fitting in on either side. He then decided to get out on his own and not live by another's lead.

Guess it keeps the imagination young and the mind working. Also feels as if sometimes our interpretations change along with life itself to reflect events and happenings.

 

[Tallswife]

:thumbsup:

Looking forward to seeing your newly finishsed garb!!

 

[Crewdawg445]

Thank you! I know your probably a fine seamstress so I know you appreciate the work!

 

[Grenadier1758]

I suggest that you make a loosely stitched up set of clothes frm very cheap cloth to see if the pattern needs adjustment. Most of the patterns need some adjustment for proper fit.

For my 37" waist, I needed a size 40 kneeband. By the way, waist bands stretch. Since you have a gusset, use a waist band an inch short so that you can cinch up the waist so your breeches won't be falling to your knees on the second day.

Your pewter buttons should be domed.

It is good to have choices.

 

[Tallswife]

Thank you! I know your probably a fine seamstress so I know you appreciate the work!

Thank you kind sir. I for sure will appreciate it!

 

[Black Hand]

Tips for Knee-breeches:
Keep track of the grain of the material - cut the gusset insert on the bias so it can stretch but go along the grain for other parts. The fall-front is the trickiest part as is getting the outside seams to line up properly - they tend to drift towards the rear when the material is pleated at the waistband. Reinforce the waistband with an inner layer of material that isn't very stretchy (I used pillow ticking). Ensure sufficient length in the knee-band so you can comfortably squat/kneel and that the legs are long enough for the knee-bands to stay below the knee when sitting/kneeling/squatting. Keep an eye on the rise of the waistband - some patterns tend to make it far higher than it should be.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Excellent advice, a few years back I did a dry run with this pattern. Things turned out great overall with small adjustments here and there. I like your tips on the breeches, certainly will work some of those in when I cut the material. I did find a very nice, 100% linen in a nutmeg color today that I'm making another pair from. To many fine fabrics at awesome prices!

Being a pattern it's only universal so there's always room for adjustments and dialing everything in. Not being a big guy, I've been lucky with patterns and the way things fit.

I'm probably going to directly copy the thigh high garters from Jas Townsend. I really like their offering. I have plenty of linen!

As for stockings, what is preferable? Cotton, wool, blends? I do need to order a few pairs.

 

[Black Hand]

Linen, silk and wool were likely most common in the period though cotton will be easy to find today. I have 2 types - one type is thick, almost resembling heavy ribbed athletic socks while the other is thin like a dress sock. I wear the thin pair almost exclusively...

Then there is option 3 - sew stockings from material of your choice using a period pattern. http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/struempfe.shtml

 

[Cruzatte]

I'm [slowly] making a change as well. I used to re-enact War of 1812 as a fifer. Sill have the US red musicians' coatee and all that.

But lately I've been bitten by the smooth bore bug, and fancy building a French fusil. While saving up for the gun parts, I'm working on my 1720-30s outfit. I've always been a fan of breech clout & leggings for a long time. It is gawdawful hot here in NE Kansas with the humidity up to 80% and the daytime high of 95° in the shade, and there ain't no shade.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Knowing you....You'll do it justice...
I look forward to seeing it. :thumbsup:

 

[Artificer]

Never worn anything but leggings, clout and mocs... However I won't be trading in mocs for shoes! I'm thinking of tailoring my persona as a Native who being mixed just wasn't fitting in on either side. He then decided to get out on his own and not live by another's lead.

Guess it keeps the imagination young and the mind working. Also feels as if sometimes our interpretations change along with life itself to reflect events and happenings.

Mocs were VERY commonly worn by European Settlers and others on or close to the Frontier and by not only men, but women and children as well. It was a LOT cheaper keeping the kids barefoot or in moccasins, than it was keeping them in shoes.

So wearing mocs would not cause you to stand out for that reason.

Gus

 

[Crewdawg445]

Mocs IMO are the best footwear for the woods, I wear them around the house all the time. Studying the period it's very interesting to see how many traded their shoes in for mocs. While indeed a cost thing, I'm sure once they realized how wonderful they felt on the feet and the benefits of them in the woods they quickly were sold.

I'm not opposed to 18th century shoes and I'm sure they have their strong points, but I personally love making and wearing mocs.

Thank you Clyde! Things should turn out great!

 

[omarick1948]

MOC'S are the most fun when trying to walk on wet grass up hill! :haha:

 

[Silky921]

"but I personally love making and wearing mocs."

I wear size 12 and love making trades. :rotf:

 

[ZUG]

MOC'S are the most fun when trying to walk on wet grass up hill! :haha:

That's when you pull a groin muscle :rotf: !

 

[Crewdawg445]

Probably need a whole hide!

 

[Crewdawg445]

Whipped together some breeches, I had some cotton drill lying around and figured why not for sizing purposes. Overall as a test run they turned out absolutely wonderful. I even sewed in functional pockets and an extra little pocket on the right facing that's perfect for any small accouterments. I had a bunch of wooden buttons laying around, just so happened I had exactly the right amount which was nice.

Now it's on to making them from my linen and cotton canvas. Making progress for sure!

My ever so generous helpers became absolutely useless upon discovering a doomed fly... synchronized tail swings meant war in the shop.

 

[Grumpa]

Yet again!! :thumbsup: :hatsoff: