I have a great plains rifle with a double set trigger and I also have a trade rifle with a heavy single trigger with creep. I shoot much better with the G.P.Rifles lite trigger when set! I Love lite triggers ! My question is, what are my options on setting up the trade rifle with either a double set trigger, or even a liter trigger? I thank you all for your valued information!! :hatsoff: ps. the G.P.R.is a cap,and the trade is a flint.
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Change to lite trigger
- Thread starter chipper c
- Start date
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Changing to a double set trigger can be more involved than changing the triggers.
First you need to determine if your lock is compatible with a double set trigger. What rifle and more importantly, what lock do you have on the rifle? The lock requires a fly in the tumbler to keep the trigger seer from falling into the half cock notch when the hammer falls.
The fly is a small triangular part that is installed in a milled recess near the half cock notch. If your lock doesn't have a fly, you will need to replace the tumbler as a minimum, or replace the lock with one that has a fly in the tumbler. Then you can replace the trigger with one that can be set.
Second, does your rifle have a simple trigger using a pin in the stock for the trigger to pivot around or is the trigger mounted as part of the trigger plate?
First, tell us more about the rifle with single trigger. Photos if possible. Maker and model otherwise.
First you need to determine if your lock is compatible with a double set trigger. What rifle and more importantly, what lock do you have on the rifle? The lock requires a fly in the tumbler to keep the trigger seer from falling into the half cock notch when the hammer falls.
The fly is a small triangular part that is installed in a milled recess near the half cock notch. If your lock doesn't have a fly, you will need to replace the tumbler as a minimum, or replace the lock with one that has a fly in the tumbler. Then you can replace the trigger with one that can be set.
Second, does your rifle have a simple trigger using a pin in the stock for the trigger to pivot around or is the trigger mounted as part of the trigger plate?
First, tell us more about the rifle with single trigger. Photos if possible. Maker and model otherwise.
Valid points Grenadier, but all the Lyman/Investarms coilspring locks have a fly.
They didn't really change that much with the inlet milling either.
The primary issue is the trigger guard,, the single trigger and TG are one piece in the Trade rifle.
The double triggers should fit in the Trade trigger/guard inlet,, there might be a little wood that needs to be removed for length and there might be an issue with how deep the trigger seats in the hole,, but then a proper trigger guard needs to be added and inlet,,
It can be done chipperc,, but it's not just a simple drop-in or exchange.
Those triggers are 1/2" wide so the only after-market that'll fit is the Davis Deer Slayer.
Buy a Davis Deer Slayer trigger for the GPR and take the factory triggers over to the Trade rifle, do a little proper inletting/bedding and add a guard
They didn't really change that much with the inlet milling either.
The primary issue is the trigger guard,, the single trigger and TG are one piece in the Trade rifle.
The double triggers should fit in the Trade trigger/guard inlet,, there might be a little wood that needs to be removed for length and there might be an issue with how deep the trigger seats in the hole,, but then a proper trigger guard needs to be added and inlet,,
It can be done chipperc,, but it's not just a simple drop-in or exchange.
Those triggers are 1/2" wide so the only after-market that'll fit is the Davis Deer Slayer.
Buy a Davis Deer Slayer trigger for the GPR and take the factory triggers over to the Trade rifle, do a little proper inletting/bedding and add a guard
robinsroost
50 Cal.
necchi said:
John, All valid points but would a single set trigger work for his application, without all of those modifications? I am aware of one or two makes of single set ones........Robin :stir:
Last edited by a moderator:
I haven't found one that fit's that 1/2" inlet, same thing with the TC Renegade Hunter versions.
I spose a feller could refabricate the inlet somehow, that darn 1/2" wide slot is a kick in the butt.
:idunno:
I spose a feller could refabricate the inlet somehow, that darn 1/2" wide slot is a kick in the butt.
:idunno:
I've been through this before and I've never found a double set trigger that is compatible with the trade rifle set up. I was able to have my trade rifle made into a semi-custom with new stock and L&R lock, still with the single trigger which functions quite well now and minimal creep. Perhaps there is a way to have a gunsmith work on the trigger and make it better?
Personally, I prefer a single trigger, but most are a lot stiffer than a set double trigger. My T/C single trigger is an example of stiff.
So, after studying the trigger sections in Gunsmith of Grenville, (at length), and a couple other references, I decided to make a pass at a simple/single trigger for my CVA Mtn Rifle. I used 1/2" by 1/8" steel stock, and a TOTW Leman trigger. I fitted and silver soldered a slotted pivot point to get the height to the sear correct. I added a light spring made from a safety pin trimmed and fitted to the plate and trigger to keep the trigger from rattling.
It came out perfect, and has about a 2lb pull with minimal travel. I did rework the trigger a bit to clear the trigger guard, and "de-beefed" the profile, adding a more rounded appearance, and a bit of a bend after annealing.
So, after studying the trigger sections in Gunsmith of Grenville, (at length), and a couple other references, I decided to make a pass at a simple/single trigger for my CVA Mtn Rifle. I used 1/2" by 1/8" steel stock, and a TOTW Leman trigger. I fitted and silver soldered a slotted pivot point to get the height to the sear correct. I added a light spring made from a safety pin trimmed and fitted to the plate and trigger to keep the trigger from rattling.
It came out perfect, and has about a 2lb pull with minimal travel. I did rework the trigger a bit to clear the trigger guard, and "de-beefed" the profile, adding a more rounded appearance, and a bit of a bend after annealing.
matt denison
54 Cal.
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"Buy a Davis Deer Slayer trigger for the GPR and take the factory triggers over to the Trade rifle, do a little proper inletting/bedding and add a guard"
Brilliant! Good idea.
Brilliant! Good idea.
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I am building a rifle based on the Grenville book. I got this cheapie old miroku Kentucky rifle that had a horrible trigger.
I read the lock section and cleaned u the sear engagement as they said in the book. It felt much better.
Then I relocated the pivot point of the single trigger much closer to where they said it was optimal. One word, wow.
The gun has a better trigger than my double set lyman GPR. And I shoot that gun good.
Get some 600 grit sandpaper, some jeweler files, a 1/16th pin punch, and a numerical drill bit set.
From the limited view of the lyman single trigger I can see on google pictures, I think your trigger will benefit from the pivot being relocated.
I read the lock section and cleaned u the sear engagement as they said in the book. It felt much better.
Then I relocated the pivot point of the single trigger much closer to where they said it was optimal. One word, wow.
The gun has a better trigger than my double set lyman GPR. And I shoot that gun good.
Get some 600 grit sandpaper, some jeweler files, a 1/16th pin punch, and a numerical drill bit set.
From the limited view of the lyman single trigger I can see on google pictures, I think your trigger will benefit from the pivot being relocated.
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This is what I did to my trigger. Assuming the center of force is the center of your finger pad.
I went from a mechanical advantage of about .7 to about 2.5.
So, if my old trigger pull was about 5lbs it went down to 1.5lbs or so roughly. With 10 minutes and a drill I cut the trigger pull in 1/3rd.
Just needed the right sized drill bit to drill the hole. I did it on a basic small drill press, but I could of done just as good with a hand drill.
The reason I went higher was to make the resultant force as vertical as I can. The force is a right angle to the line from the sear arm to the pivot pin. The higher up the more efficient the force pushes up on the sear bar and not across. Removing any parts and removing casting lines and polishing with fine 600 grit paper helps a lot. I used automotive grease to lube the parts.
After the trigger rework and clean-up, my sear point a little bit lower. So, I had to remove some metal from the trigger bar, thus the slight bend down. I also removed a bit of wood arounf the sear inside the stock. A factory gun might be interfering with the wood stock, so check that out good too.
You got plenty of time to clean up the trigger. The factory might send a total of 5 to 10 minutes touching up the parts with industrial power tools and maybe a minute with a file for final fit. your first try will be better than their 13,247th try on your gun.
I went from a mechanical advantage of about .7 to about 2.5.
So, if my old trigger pull was about 5lbs it went down to 1.5lbs or so roughly. With 10 minutes and a drill I cut the trigger pull in 1/3rd.
Just needed the right sized drill bit to drill the hole. I did it on a basic small drill press, but I could of done just as good with a hand drill.
The reason I went higher was to make the resultant force as vertical as I can. The force is a right angle to the line from the sear arm to the pivot pin. The higher up the more efficient the force pushes up on the sear bar and not across. Removing any parts and removing casting lines and polishing with fine 600 grit paper helps a lot. I used automotive grease to lube the parts.
After the trigger rework and clean-up, my sear point a little bit lower. So, I had to remove some metal from the trigger bar, thus the slight bend down. I also removed a bit of wood arounf the sear inside the stock. A factory gun might be interfering with the wood stock, so check that out good too.
You got plenty of time to clean up the trigger. The factory might send a total of 5 to 10 minutes touching up the parts with industrial power tools and maybe a minute with a file for final fit. your first try will be better than their 13,247th try on your gun.
Now that's cool!
Did you have to do anything to the trigger itself to fit through the plate?
Or does the trigger move easily at it's new pivot point?
Did you have to do anything to the trigger itself to fit through the plate?
Or does the trigger move easily at it's new pivot point?
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Since the pivot point moved towards the rear. The front slightly hit when moved. I had to clearance the front slot a bit more. Maybe one minute at most with a file and it cleared by plenty.
It kind of boggles me why the factory did not do this. I do clearly understand now why many of these "primitive" guns had single triggers. They worked fine.
When buying a new trigger plate. I will be looking for one that looked like mine. Instead of the fixed spot for the pivot. Something with some leg room to work out where you want or need it. I went to school for mechanical engineering, so I know a bit about instant centers of multiple levers. However, graphing calculator aside, move the pivot to about 1/4" away from the sear and as high up as you can drill it, and you'll be happy.
I like it especially when hunting. No fumbling with 2 triggers. Hammer back, aim, pull, get your deer dragging rope out.
If I wasn't planning on selling my GPR, I'd buy the trade rifle trigger and sell my double set.
Once I build my 54 cal gun, the GPR will sell. Once I build a caplock gun or my 3rd muzzleloader, this Miroku Kentucky wanna be will be sold too.
It kind of boggles me why the factory did not do this. I do clearly understand now why many of these "primitive" guns had single triggers. They worked fine.
When buying a new trigger plate. I will be looking for one that looked like mine. Instead of the fixed spot for the pivot. Something with some leg room to work out where you want or need it. I went to school for mechanical engineering, so I know a bit about instant centers of multiple levers. However, graphing calculator aside, move the pivot to about 1/4" away from the sear and as high up as you can drill it, and you'll be happy.
I like it especially when hunting. No fumbling with 2 triggers. Hammer back, aim, pull, get your deer dragging rope out.
If I wasn't planning on selling my GPR, I'd buy the trade rifle trigger and sell my double set.
Once I build my 54 cal gun, the GPR will sell. Once I build a caplock gun or my 3rd muzzleloader, this Miroku Kentucky wanna be will be sold too.
