Changing the coil spring on a TC lock

[Scott Olesen]

I was looking to replace the coil spring on a TC white mountain carbine. Is there a special tool or can I remove the bridle, sear, and tumbler and ease the hammer forward? I would hate to have the spring end up in parts unknown and not be able to get the new one on.

Thanks,

PW

 

[necchi]

Just hold the sear arm with your thumb and let the hammer all the way down to contact the lock plate. That leaves the least amount of tension on the spring,,

[youtube]JGdAQBsAAzI[/youtube]

 

[Rifleman1776]

Thanks for that. I have considered changing mine but also did not want to launch into outer space. BTW, is there a way to tell if the spring has lost it's power? Mine, after 45 years and jillions of times used may need changing. But, I dunno. :idunno:
Might consider an L&R rpl.
And, BTW, where does one get a new TC spring?

 

[mooman76]

Maybe not in this case but when taking something small like this apart and under pressure, Do it in a large clear plastic bag so the parts will not go far.

 

[bubba.50]

if it's still dependably poppin' caps or makin' good sparks whichever the case may be yer good to go.

ramblinman211 sells tons of T/C parts on evil-bay. prices about as good as any & usually offers free shippin'.

 

[Scott Olesen]

Necchi-Thanks for the video, made it truly simple to change. I believe I ordered the spring from Track. I bought this rifle for my 12 yr old son. We will be deer hunting shortly and we have had a few misfires and the hammer felt much easier to cock than my GPR. I will look at selecting a nipple that the caps fit better on as well as I suspect the fit may be too tight to let the cap fire.

I did not want to have a disappointed little guy because of a malfunction or worse having an accident due to a hangfire.

Thanks again,

PW

 

[Rifleman1776]

if it's still dependably poppin' caps or makin' good sparks whichever the case may be yer good to go.

ramblinman211 sells tons of T/C parts on evil-bay. prices about as good as any & usually offers free shippin'.

Thanks for the info. Popping caps OK. But last time out I used Swiss 3Fg for the first time and it blew the hammer back to full cock. I was using 50 grains with prb in the .45 cal. rifle. This has never happened before. I'll be cutting back on the charge. It gave lousy groups also. But, the old spring is still a concern.

 

[Toomuch51]

I was looking to replace the coil spring on a TC white mountain carbine. Is there a special tool or can I remove the bridle, sear, and tumbler and ease the hammer forward? I would hate to have the spring end up in parts unknown and not be able to get the new one on.

Thanks,

PW

As this is a closely guarded secret with T/C, I was moved to design my own tools when I took up the trade.
For removing the mainspring what I came up with is a pair of channel-lock pliers:
First cut a small notch in each jaw (similar to a rear sight) to straddle the plunger.
Then dress the sides of the jaws to fit around the bridal.
Adjust the span to the correct distance to compress and remove/reassemble the mainspring.

Toomuch
............
Shoot Flint

 

[necchi]

Is your browser incapable of viewing the youtube video?
It ain't rocket science.

 

[necchi]

Hammer blowback is caused by a worn nipple.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Hammer blowback is caused by a worn nipple.

I wish is was that simple. Nipple is new. I did turn it down to accept #10s.
Other change was going from Goex to Swiss. I lowered charge from 55 gr. to 50. Scattered shots all over the board and blew back hammer. Am going to drop to 40 but will be competing without testing. Oh, well. I'm new at this game. :rotf:

 

[bubba.50]

nipple bein' new is no guarantee. I had a Renegade that right out of the factory box would blow the hammer to 1/2 cock. and with 100gr or higher loads would sometimes go all the way to full cock. needless to say I changed it out pretty quick.

 

[Zonie]

The new nipple is probably alright but just for the sake of checking, remove it and look down thru the inside hole.

The little hole that goes thru should be slightly smaller than 1/32 (.031) inch in size. A common straight pin (the kind that's used for sewing) should just go thru the hole.
If it seems pretty loose, the hole is probably oversize.

 

[Toomuch51]

Is your browser incapable of viewing the youtube video?
It ain't rocket science.

To each their own.
With the method I described mainspring removal requires only about 5 seconds and reinstall about 5 to 10 seconds.

Toomuch
............
Shoot Flint

 

[necchi]

The video shows the needle nose pliers removing and installing the spring in 6 seconds.
I guess, to each their own, :v

 

[Rifleman1776]

The new nipple is probably alright but just for the sake of checking, remove it and look down thru the inside hole.

The little hole that goes thru should be slightly smaller than 1/32 (.031) inch in size. A common straight pin (the kind that's used for sewing) should just go thru the hole.
If it seems pretty loose, the hole is probably oversize.

I've played with my share of nipples over the years.
This one looks proper sized. But, I have dozens of spares. Will have to turn down another but it won't hurt to try.

 

[mtmshieldshotmail.com]

I would replace the nipple before I'd replace the spring. Cheaper, easier, faster and most likely the real source of frustration. An Ampco bronze or good quality stainless nipple with the appropriate sized cap will do wonders. It takes very little force to set off the cap when all the components are matched well. I doubt it's the spring.

Regards,
Mike