Cheeckpiece inlay?

[barebackjack]

Im thinkin of putting a small cheeckpiece inlay on the GPR im working on for practice.

Im assuming the general method of attachment is to nail it on and than peen the nail heads?????

Has anybody ever tried to glue one in? I was thinking gorilla glue which is supposed to work good on wood and metals, or barge cement which I know works well on both.

I have a real nice french coin with lots of writing and such that I dont want to nail through if I dont have to.

Thanks for the help guys.

Boone

 

[crockett]

Many times you can get the fit so tight the inlay almost stays in on its own. I'd try the glue. I usually use to pins at slightly different angle and then sand/polish smooth but if it is a coin etc, the glue is probably best. Others more knowledable than I probably have some better ideas.

 

[Norskie]

See if you can silver solder some brads or pins to the backside of the coin. I've done that with brass inlays and it should work with a coin. Then you inlay as normal and glue the inlay. The brads help locate and give more surface area for the glue to bond to. I've heard somewhere about soldering tiny wood screws for this purpose.
BTW, I'd use carpenter's wood glue before Barge cement. Barge is best used on modern leather.

 

[George F.]

There are several methods of attaching the cheek inlay.
1st. Counter sink headed nails. This can also be done with wood screws leaving the head exposed enough that the slot can be file off with enough of the counter sink into the inlay.
2nd. Blind screws soldered to the back of the inlay after the inlay has been inlayed.Silver solder prefered here. A small cavity is then placed in the stock behind the inlay to accept the screw. Then epoxied in, inlay and attaching screws.
3rd. Doming the inlay, if its not to fancy or pierced, like round or oval, and undercutting the stock and reverse beveling the inlay. This is best done with templates. On almost all inlaying operations the inletted side of the inlay is relieved by filing a slight angle on the back to help inletting the part, makes up the difference of the knife point cutting around it[url] mostly.In[/url] this operation a template is made of the inlay and filed away from the template making the overall size of the inlay larger than the viewed inlay. then the template is placed on the stock ,marked out and carefully taken down to its proper depth. Then, the bottom edge of the inletted cavity is undercut to accept the oversized inlay under the finished surface.

When the inlay is installed, then the stock and inlay can be brought to a final flush surface.
.........Hope this helped...George F.
P.S. hope I didn't make any mistakes here, I had to edit this. on doming the inlay part. The inlay is flat up until it's time to place the inlay in the stock. After all the undercutting is done, and you've annealled the inlay, you dome the inlay in the middle with a ball peen hammer, like on the engraving chasing hammer, so it looks like a baby moon hubcap, enough so the inlay will fit into the inlet. then you put the inlay into the inlet and tap it down with a block of wood as not to indent the stock or inlay...I think I got it all now.If it;s a large inlay you'll have to contour it to match it to the contour of the cheek piece

 

[Vaino]

A very secure and "sorta" PC method of attaching inlays is to inlet the inlay, drill & ctsk the inlay for 1/32 dia. silver nails {or whatever} which have a matching head shape and on the edge of tha inlay, using a knife file, file a groove either completely around the perimeter or at frequent spots. Drill the holes in the wood using the inlay as a template and fill the inlet w/ "MicroBed" colored epoxy. Be sure to fill the nail holes w/ epoxy and file a few grooves around the nails. Press the inlay into the inlet and lightly pound the nails home. After the epoxy is hard, file flush. The grooved perimeter will be filled w/ epoxy and the inlay won't pop out. The nails are for PC effect....Fred

 

[Zonie]

This old post might be of interest to you.
INLETTING INLAYS

As the post points out, the inlays are installed so that they are flush with the adjacent wood.
This envolves doing some cutting and chiseling.

Of course, you can just nail it on, but you will find that it will hang up on all kinds of things unless you make a pocket for it to live in.

As others have mentioned, most of the inlays are either nailed to keep them in the pockets or they sometimes have a small nail soldered to the backside of them.

As for epoxy, I have also used this on more than a few inlays. If you do use this method, make sure the backside of the inlay is roughed up and absolutly oil/grease free.
Also, because it is relying on a glue bond to hold it in place it may fall off 5-100 years from now. :grin:

Zonie