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FishDFly

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In one of the discussions of flintlock locks, a couple of different chemicals were mentioned by Mr. Paul and others, i.e., Kroil and Break Free and another or so.

There are a number of machinists and others here whom work in industry who are familiar with different chemicals/greases, liquid or spray that they use on a regular basis.

Guess what I was wondering, what do you use on your guns for protection(in and out) and lubrication, not interested so much in patch lubes, more knowledge on lubrication and protection.

Thanks

RDE
 
The best chemical for protection that I've ever found is CorrosionX. I had a major leak in my storage area. Several guns were severely damaged by rust before I noticed the problem. They had been treated with CLP. There were a couple guns that had been treated with CorrosionX and they were in mint condition as if nothing had even happened. That was enough to make me switch over 100%.

Apparently it also neutralizes acids. I have acidy hands and my pistols were always suffering. When I started wiping them down with the stuff, that ended completely.

It's also a good lubricant. I tend to go through a LOT of rimfire ammo when I'm out shooting and my guns start to get unreliable after a while. Since I switched to CorrosionX, that no longer happens.

I use Ballistol for short term protection on my muzzleloaders since I use it as patch lube anyway, but for storage, I only use CorrosionX now.
 
I'm a firm believer in Kroil, but my wife hates the smell, so I seldom use it in the house.

Why can't they make a great product smell great? :surrender:
 
Birchwood-Casey Sheath for rust prevention

BI33128.jpg


Soap & water to clean, 91% alcohol to dry, Sheath to protect and a couple drops to lubricate the lock. That's it.
 
Break Free for plastic wads in shotguns

Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine to clean BP arms

Master's synthetic gun oil for lube on revolvers' parts

Rem Oil in the spray can for rifles inside & out

Shooter's Choice wide temp. grease in a hypo for auto shotgun metal to metal lube on moving cold parts--can't beat it.

Give me more time, I'm on the 'puter, not in the basement where I keep all this %^&*#$!! :haha:

Dave

Oh YA! Birchwood Casey Barricade (formerly Sheath) for BP rifle bores. I soak 'em with a good spray down the throat, wipe with a patch wet with the stuff. That forces Barricade through the flash channel and out the nipple. Then I store the rifle MUZZLE DOWN on a paper towel--What the gun needs, the gun keeps, the rest runs out onto the paper towel. Never a missfire this way :wink:
 
I guess it's all in the nose of the beholder, I love the smell of the stuff, just wish they would market an aftershave from that and Hoppee's :wink: .
 
Now if you want the "good stuff" in aerosol form:

Berkebile 2+2 Gum Cutter - Will remove any tars & bore varnish from burned lubes - and all the varnish from your stock if you're not careful. This is used to clean carbureators and if you need to get a bore CLEAN of burned on oils & tar after the powder fouling is out this is the stuff. DO NOT get it on the stock or plastic. Spray a patch and wipe the bore to remove old crud for a rifle that was oiled & stored for a long time. Use with good ventilation. Cheap at auto-supply stores (under $4 for 12 oz can).

PB Blast Catalyst - This really IS what most guys think WD-40 is. A penetrating lubricant that displaces moisture and protects metal. A squirt of this after a bath chases water out of the breech-end of the barrel.
 
I use for my flinter weapon/maintenace oil like
Brunox, WD40 or Würth Wartungspray. I don´t care about the brand it´s just for stopping corrosion for a short time max time 1-2 month. For long time storrage I use grease and corrosionstop wax seawater resistance.
 
I have access to a lubricant the Miltary uses on all of there automatic aircraft weapons (and they do use them in the rain of course), it seems to work, I've never had any problems.
All that's on the container is
6850-00-224-6657 Automatic Aircraft Weapons Rust-Resistant Coating and the lot #.
 
Hi Richard, I use Ballistol never had a problem. I am sure you know Pat O'Sullivan from Abilene. He uses Powder Blast and Break Free CLP. He like you lives in that more humid climate. :thumbsup:
When I was shooting at the "Red River Renegade Shoot" in Electra that seemed to be a popular rust preventive method. :thumbsup:
 
For rust protection I use only Spray on's long term rust preventive available from industrial supply houses such as J&L . It leaves a brown waxy film that really protects the metal much like a thin layer of the old cosmoline.It also works well as a lock lube.
 
Ballistol - mixed with water used to clean with flush kit.

Aerosol Ballistol as exterior and bore protection.

never had a problem using ballistol :)
 
Richard,
If you noticed at the last TMLRA shoot,the majority of the top shooters use Ballistol as a cleaner and patch lube and rust prevention.That is why we talked Marvin into stocking it.I wipe my gun down all over-wood AND metal no problem.
Greg
 
Greg: your shooting match is held in a very Hot, and usually damp climate. Ballistol works okay there. Its not so good where its cold, and dry. Until you have shot in a variety of humidity and temperature ranges, you won't even have a clue as to the problems some of the other shooters around this country experience on a daily basis. My uncle visted us in Chicago after living in Washington for many years. He told us that he had to adjust the amount of water and fluids he drank when he came back to the Midwest, and then increase his fluid intake when he went back home. That is how much dryer the air is up on the Snake River at Clarkston. He said he figures he drinks a gallon more water a day at home, than when he is back in Chicago.

My point is that we all think we have found the best lube/cleaner until we shoot in another part of the country, or in a much different temperature and humidity range than we are used to.

I am testing Ballistol Now, to see how it handles in my Dry, Winter heated house. I am sure it works as a patch lube in the cold, but I am not so sure how well its going to do as a storage lube. I am glad to hear it works well in Texas, as I have family in Dallas.
 
Paul,
Let us know your findings on your tests.I do know here that ,as it is paraffin based, it is thicker in the cold and thinner in the heat.
Greg
 
I don't know how you guys do it but Ballistol to me smells like a cross between dirty feet and imported sharp provolone. Yikes!
 
I used it on my center fires years ago and was happy with it. It works very good in sub zero weather, no sticking and the bolts worked fine, just like in a warm house.

It's hard to find around here now and I never tried it on ML's.
 
A few years ago, I read about the wonders of Ballistol so I knew I had to buy some to protect my muzzleloaders.

After shooting and cleaning several of my guns I applied Ballistol to the bores.
Several months later, doing my regular maintenance , I ran a clean patch down the bores of these rifles.
I was shocked! Each one of them had surface rust in their bores! And, I live in Arizona where the humidity is around 20 percent or less!!!

I cleaned the surface rust out of those guns and applied Birchwood Casey Sheath (now called Barricade) to the bores (like I have always done with my other guns) and I have not seen a trace of rust in these, or any of my other guns.
 
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