Cherry Build - Trigger Modifications

[Erzulis boat]

I am not going to use the tabs with pins method of triggerguard attachment, and want to use screws.
After cleaning up the guard and removing the tabs, I could see that the finials were too thin to secure solidly with screws.
So, I broke out the torch, cut 1/16" thick plates, and soldered them on the finials for reinforcement. These plates have positive shoulders that allow a rock solid mount, and the trigger assembly is confined between the two shelves.
You can see the finial reinforcement placed on the rear finial before soldering.

This is the job done, with the trigger assembly installed within the system.
The rear set trigger was modified in shape and composition. As you can see it is made of brass, and placed very close to the rear of the trigger opening. Just the curved portion is brass, and is silver soldered on the setting arm.
This makes the set trigger invisible at the first glance, and makes it look like a single trigger!
I had to modify things so that I had some room forward of the front trigger, so I could shoot it with gloves.
There are two different stories on how this came about-
I planned on using a brass trigger so that I could have it match the guard and could be clean and out of sight.........OR......I tried to bend the Davis steel one to mimic the curvature of the guard to put it very rearward, and snapped that modafrackie like a chimp...........You decide!

:haha:

Sometimes good comes from the bad!

 

[Erzulis boat]

I should mention the technique for the trigger soldering.....
Since the setting arm is hardened, and has to remain that way, you must not allow the heat required to solder it affect the temper.
Clamp the tip arm portion in a steel jawed vise, as this is a positive barrier for the heat unless you go to town with the torch.
After you have fit the new trigger to the radius that you machined or filed on the trigger, go ahead and tin it with solder.
Then tin the brass trigger.
Hold it into place and apply heat with a small tip to the inside curve of the brass.
Brass is a great conductor of heat, and the silver will flow in about 10 seconds (no kidding).
After it was done, I grabbed the steel set arm that was in the vise with my bare fingers.
Did not even feel hot!
If my fingers got roasted, I would know that I failed, or at least had to check to see if the "Hardness has left the building".
You can get some heat into the arm and be OK, just don't saturate it.
As for strength, I then curved the brass portion to follow the guard, and knew for a fact that it was a bulletproof connection. You can feel it!
The capability to solder has opened so many closed doors in this hobby.

:winking: