cleaning between shots

[ratslayer]

I am new at this. so i have a few questions do i need to run a patch threw the barrel after so many shots.
I have a traditions 50 cal deer hunter.
I noticed today after my fifth shot it took more force to seat the ball.My patches are pre lubed .015 but i still bought some bore lube.I am using pyrodex rs the on line Manuel said it can be used in it.I did read on here most of your just recommend plain black powder due to the ignition temp at 350.I had to use 2 caps the first time shooting it.After that no problems the night before I shot some caps in the grass and it was clear.

Is goex black powder just as powerful as pyrodex other then ignition temp's what's the difference.

thanks

 

[Bill Hall]

Your local humidity has alot to do with how often you need to wipe between shots. I live in the desert, and there's no way I can get five shots without wiping. Some folks wipe between every shot, just to maintain consistancy, others just wipe when necessary.

I suggest when working up an accurate load, wipe every shot, so that fouling is not a factor. For fun shooting, just wipe when the ball gets "sticky".

I think someone here has a chart showing the relative power of different powders, maybe it will be posted. But they are all in the same ballpark, you're not going to get modern velocities by switching to a different powder. I just use goex mostly, due to its cost and consistancy. I find the most accurate load, and don't ever worry about power. Bill

 

[1sgt]

I am new at this. so i have a few questions do i need to run a patch threw the barrel after so many shots.
I have a traditions 50 cal deer hunter.
I noticed today after my fifth shot it took more force to seat the ball.My patches are pre lubed .015 but i still bought some bore lube.I am using pyrodex rs the on line Manuel said it can be used in it.I did read on here most of your just recommend plain black powder due to the ignition temp at 350.I had to use 2 caps the first time shooting it.After that no problems the night before I shot some caps in the grass and it was clear.

Is goex black powder just as powerful as pyrodex other then ignition temp's what's the difference.

thanks

Welcome to the forum and the wonderful sport of Muzzleloaders. I use Goex fff black powder or pyrodex Rs. I use the same 50 grain charge of powder for a .50 cal rifle. I have a traditions Deerhunter in .32 cal. I use 28 grains Pyrodex P in it. Fun to shoot. For the most consistent loading and shooting I run a alcohol damp patch followed by a dry patch. If you use a tight ball/patch combination keeping the bore from fouling build-up makes loading easier and will shoot more consistently. Keep the flash channel clean and dry, no misfires, more fun.

 

[ratslayer]

thanks for the info

 

[GreyWhiskers]

You got good info from the other 2 posters. Since you live close to me I can say that humidity or lack of it during the summer months is a big factor. When the temps are in the 90s or above the humidity is less than 20%. For extended shooting I use Simple Green. H2O will work just as well. Patches should be wet.

GW

 

[tv_racin_fan]

IF the fouling causes you to run WET then you really should try a card of some sort over the powder and maybe a bit of filler over that so you dont scrunch the card and wet some of the power anyway.

A WET pactch is going to wet some of the powder and not consistently between shots and really play havoc with your accuracy.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Controversial issue. There are many who seem to get their jollies by bragging about how many shots they can take without swabbing. I don't see the point. I swab between every shot, even when hunting. Doing so puts out any potential hot coals in the breech and gives me a consistent bore to reload and shoot from. No build up. I use spit on a flannel patch.

 

[ebiggs1]

And the correct answer is, you need to swab if you need to. :thumbsup:
Otherwise it causes more trouble than it helps. I suspect your pre-lubed patches are too dry. I like the right amount of lube :hmm: but wetter is better than dryer.
I don't have a Traditions but I will guess it is pretty easy to foul the powder chamber in one. So just swab when it is necessary. :wink:

GOEX black powder is best and I recommend it if you can get it :thumbsup: but Pyrodex is almost as good, when used in cap guns. The other subs are a waste of money since they usually cost more and offer no benefits. :idunno:

 

[David W.]

Controversial issue. There are many who seem to get their jollies by bragging about how many shots they can take without swabbing. I don't see the point. I swab between every shot, even when hunting. Doing so puts out any potential hot coals in the breech and gives me a consistent bore to reload and shoot from. No build up. I use spit on a flannel patch.

I used to have some stuff called Falkenberry Juice. I loaded my rifle with damp patches, never had succeeding shots harder to load, or groups change on the target. It depends on what one uses I suppose.

 

[roundball]

I noticed today after my fifth shot it took more force to seat the ball.

Good information from Snowdragon, 1sgt, and GreyWhiskers...keeping the fouling soft is the goal and moisture in the bore is the key.
Either high humidity will help you shoot without having to wipe between shots either at all or very infrequently, and/or a wet type lube will allow you to do it.

As an example to illustrate the factual point, during conditions of extremely high humidity here during North Carolina summers I just use off the shelf precut/prelubed patches from Oxyoke / T/C and can shoot entire 40-50 shot range sessions without wiping between shots at all.
Conversely, during colder, drier, low humidity months of winter I can't do that...I have to squeeze a few squirts of a liquid lube into the bag of patches to get them 'wetter'...(examples are Hoppe's PLUS BP lube, Liquid Wonderlube)...then I can shoot the sessions the same way without wiping at all.

The only time I bother wasting my time wiping a bore between shots is when doing load development and/or adjusting sights for deer or turkey hunting...where I want every shot to be out of a clean cold barrel the same way it would be when hunting.
And then I do more than just 'wipe' the bore...I completely clean, dry, and lube it to put it into the same condition it would be in when I take it out of its case to load it for hunting.

Its a great hobby...sounds like you're on your way
:thumbsup:

 

[necchi]

And there ya have it ratslayer,

It's really all about technique, there are the,
swabbers (a patch/wipe between shot's},
and the non swabbers ( wetter or more lubed patches).

Neither is really a right or wrong way, it's just a different technique that each individual works out for themselves.

The topic has been beat to death for years with folks that follow each technique becoming defensive as seen above.
If you read some of the back pages you can find several very helpfull topics that actually describe each way in detail.
(just try to ignore the banter of the two schools)
(most of it will be under lube type topics)

Best advice is to experiment a little yourself and find which way works best for you and follow that path. What ever way ya go, finding a repeatable style, in other words loading the same way is what will give you the best, most consistant results with your gun.

FWIW, I started years back (25yrs) as a wet patch guy, and moved to the swabbing side of the fence after watching every tourniment winner swab. It's the technique that works the best for me.

 

[VEARL]

Ratslayer,
I only swab when I feel that it is taking more effort to load the following shot.
Doesn't take long and it will keep your shots together better.
Aim small.....Miss small (Everyone except me) :idunno:

 

[JCW]

IF the fouling causes you to run WET then you really should try a card of some sort over the powder and maybe a bit of filler over that so you dont scrunch the card and wet some of the power anyway.

A WET pactch is going to wet some of the powder and not consistently between shots and really play havoc with your accuracy.

I don't know, I use both moose milk and Lehigh Valley for patch lube and have not had any problems with my powder. On the other hand, the patches are not soaking wet either. Just damp works good.

 

[50cal.cliff]

I am new at this. so i have a few questions do i need to run a patch threw the barrel after so many shots.
I have a traditions 50 cal deer hunter.
I noticed today after my fifth shot it took more force to seat the ball.My patches are pre lubed .015 but i still bought some bore lube.I am using pyrodex rs the on line Manuel said it can be used in it.I did read on here most of your just recommend plain black powder due to the ignition temp at 350.I had to use 2 caps the first time shooting it.After that no problems the night before I shot some caps in the grass and it was clear.

Is goex black powder just as powerful as pyrodex other then ignition temp's what's the difference.

thanks

Here is from my experience with a Traditions. I tried subs :shake: no good in my experience. I couldn't get consistent accuracy and the fouling was horrible!

I use Goex 2FF in my .50 cal., I use Hoppes Black Powder Lube and Solvent on my patches. I usually wipe about every third shot. I tried wiping between each shot but couldn't tell a difference between that and wiping every third shot, except it was more work.

I did find out though, if put wiping off to the fifth shot my loading was hard and I begin to get more fliers!

I will tell you this I have a mark on my rod that is dead bottom without a load. I have learned to wipe in stages of 1/3 and change patch, 2/3 and change patch, and that last 1/3 is always done with a new clean patch.

Otherwise the patch will push the fouling down into the patent breech and out into the nipple thus completely blocking firing of the weapon.

If that happens don't panic. It can remedied by a pick down the nipple or thru the clean out screw. I believe in anti seize, (I use automotive anti seize w/copper in it) and use it on both my nipple and clean out screw.

Even when in the field I always carry a nipple wrench and a small wooden handled screwdriver, and a few Q-tips should I need to field clean the fouling that got pushed down into the patient breech.

Your mileage may vary on this so take it for what it is worth.

 

[ryoung14]

Controversial issue. There are many who seem to get their jollies by bragging about how many shots they can take without swabbing. I don't see the point. I swab between every shot, even when hunting. Doing so puts out any potential hot coals in the breech and gives me a consistent bore to reload and shoot from. No build up. I use spit on a flannel patch.

My BP experience encompasses shooting in NY and IN, both can be humid; don't know about out west. In those two locations, hard loading is usually an indication that too much powder is being used. I generally find (for range shooting anyway) that lowering powder charge to a level that limits fouling to a consistent and manageable level AND EXTENDS THE # OF SHOTS BETWEEN SWABBING AS MUCH AS PRACTICAL, results in better/more consistent accuracy and a more enjoyable range session. But I do shoot Pyrodex...so YMMV.

Almost invariably, if I'm using a load that allows me to load 10 or a dozen balls easily without swabbing, my groups will be their smallest and I won't get fliers. For me, swabbing after every shot IS a recipe for fliers.

What I love about my .32s and my .36 is that I can use very light loads (15gr.) of Pyrodex P and essentially shoot all afternoon with .22rf accuracy. The fouling is such that loading the subsequent ball brings the barrel back to a consistent fouling baseline. Once I get past 30 shots without swabbing, things do get a bit sloppy, but by then, so am I.

OTOH, if I start using 30 and 35gr. loads in the smallbores, the fouling quickly becomes an issue and, without swabbing, it becomes a fight to seat the ball. With swabbing, the issue becomes fliers.

So the point of a long unbroken string of accurate shots without swabbing is that it's an indication that the charge being used is burning completely without excessive fouling.

As far as hot coals in the barrel are concerned; that's why we blow down the barrel after each shot :blah:

 

[GreyWhiskers]

As far as hot coals in the barrel are concerned; that's why we blow down the barrel after each shot :blah:

:rotf: Ohhh man, now you've done it! :stir:

Otherwise, some good info. :wink: GW

 

[uncmrkhd]

Heres putting my 2 cents worth,,,I have Investarms 50 cal and I too use pyro RS 60-75g and it gets harder after 5 shots. My groups stay pretty consistent but I'll spit patch or some times use TC number 13 bore cleaner after 5 just to ease my mind. I have shot as much as 10 times with RS without too much difficulty. I find its another of the things where its claimed each gun has its own preference. I only shoot paper but I'm able to keep in a 3in circle so I consider that to be kill shot at 50yrd and i'm in 6in at 100yrd.I've tried all sorts of lube from moose snot to bore butter and a bunch of store bought patches and find i'm good with walmart ticking (17-20 thick)and spit so like its been said just try stuff and have fun

 

[smo]

Just go shoot and enjoy your rifle,it'll tell you what it likes or dislikes.From my experience different rifles like different things.I have one TC that doesn't shoot the ball well on a clean bore.I have another that likes a clean/swabbed bore for every shot.I have others that it doesn't seem to matter much they just get swabbed when they become hard to load. :idunno: Alot of this depends on the climate/humidity and patch dampness as stated. When shooting competion it's different than in a hunting situation.In a hunting situation I always have a clean bore unless it's a follow up shot which I've only had to do once. X's are lots smaller than a deers heart or lungs.It depends on what your looking for.Good Shooting & Good Luck, just enjoy the ride. :hatsoff: Oh the .45 cal that I have that don't like being fired clean don't get to go hunting it's just for fun shooting.

 

[ratslayer]

cleaning the barrel what is used to clean them i have heard just soap and water. Can i use bore scrubber .

thats for the info guys i knew i came to the right place.............. :bow:

 

[GreyWhiskers]

cleaning the barrel what is used to clean them i have heard just soap and water. Can i use bore scrubber .

thats for the info guys i knew i came to the right place.............. :bow:

Hot or warm water with a couple drops of dishwashing detergent (Dawn) is what you need most to clean the barrel. Clean with patches on a jag and use a brush if you have one. Then ya need to get the water out. WD40 or alcohol will work. Then oil like you would any firearm. GW

Not really sure what you mean by bore scrubber.