cleaning pinned barrels

[Fallen Timbers]

I thank everyone for their answers about removing the tang screw.

Would you be kind enough to describe how to clean a barrel when it is still on the rifle? I've never attempted to do this. Can the rifling be cleaned thoroughly with the barrel on the stock?

Thank you!

 

[Stumpkiller]

Three methods.

Get a clamp on tube that covers the vent with a gasket and allows you to pump soapy water up or pour it down the barrel.

Set the firearm on a flat surface (deck or washing machine beside a stationary tub) and lay old towels under the vent and to keep it a few inches higher than the muzzle. Run damp patches up into the bore and repeat, squeezing out the patches and dipping in clean soapy water between wipes. I use a breech scraper sfter the first few wipes to break up the crud on the breech face.

Plug the vent with a toothpick or feather and pour soapy water in and allow to sit. Pour out and repeat.

There are other methods. Some use a 4 ft tube to hose the breech.

All end up needing a wipe up with dry patches and a good oiling. I use Sheath. After a day I wipe another Sheath patch just to be sure.

 

[54ball]

Yes, that's the way you clean a longrifle.

Simply plug the vent or nipple, fill the bore with water, slosh,repeat till clear, remove vent/nipple plug, then use patches on a jag or tow on worm till clean then oil bore.

It might be best to remove the lock because sometime water will seep under it.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Forgot to mention remove the lock first (for all methods). Good catch.

 

[hanshi]

Absolutely remove the lock. It will need cleaning and oiling. :thumbsup:

 

[Trench]

I've found that a feather works best to seal a touch hole on a flintlock. I pick them up when I find them on the ground. Otherwise, I use a toothpick.

It seems odd at first to clean a barrel without removing it, but in the end it is much easier to leave it on.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I would agree especially on many of the semi production guns. They dont always have the best lock fit. My Hash guns rarely have the lock pulled other than for a little lube a couple times a year or if I used it in the rain or moist conditions. More of a risk messing up something.

 

[MSW]

I saw or read about (can't remember which) a gadget which was a hose within a hose which went down the bore and had some sort of spray nozzle at the end which would absolutely and completely break up any and all dirt, crud, bat droppings or any other foreign matter from your bore without hesitation ... and if you order in the next five minutes, we'll send you these cheapie steak knives which we can't unload on anyone else ...

I use the toothpick method, although my wife likes the clamp- on widget ... never got good at the feather trick

just my 2 cents worth

 

[Stumpkiller]

I like the 'ol flat breech scraper followed by a tow worm with a patch pushed in ahead of it. The first breaks up the crud and the second chases it out of the edges.

 

I've found that a feather works best to seal a touch hole on a flintlock. I pick them up when I find them on the ground.

I would be careful about picking up "found" feathers. I know it seems crazy, but if the wrong fur cop sees you in possession of an easily identified feather i.e. Cardinal, Blue Jay, or any other Federally protected species - and that's just about all of them - you could find yourself in more trouble than you ever imagined.
Just ask some folks who were around the day of the raid on primitive at Friendship.

 

[dikman]

I saw a device (somewhere) that was a steam cleaner for barrels! It had a long thin perforated metal tube that was attached to a steam generator. Shove the tube down the barrel, turn on the steam and away with the grime!!!!

An interesting idea, I suppose.

 

[Billnpatti]

First, remove the lock, take it outside and spray it out with a spray can of automobile brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner. Both work well in cleaning out any crud but they strip out all of the oil as well so you will need to lightly oil the working parts before replacing into your stock.

With the lock out, plug the vent/nipple hole, stand your gun up and fill your bore with warm soapy water. Let it sit for about 10 minutes or so to soak the crud loose. Then pour out a little bit of the water, put your thumb over the muzzle and tip your gun up and back to slosh the water around in the bore. Pour it out and repeat. Then using several patchs soaked in soapy water, swab out your bore until they come out clean. Now, use several dry patches to dry your bore as well as you can. Then spray WD-40 down your bore and let it sit for a few minutes to remove any residual water. Thoroughly wipe out all of the WD-40 that now has moisture in it. When your bore has been thoroughly wiped out, use a patch with a good gun oil such as Birchwood-Casey Barricade to coat the inside of your bore with a good coat of rust preventive and you are done with the bore. Don't forget the rest of the gun.

 

[roundball]

I've really come to appreciate the simplicity of cleaning pinned barrels that have round bottom grooves and patent breeches.
I lay it on a carpeted bench, remove the lock & vent.
I use 3-4 hot wet/soapy patches, couple dry patches, and sloppy wet WD40 patches.
A couple Q-tips in through the vent seat.
Done.
I spend more time to disassemble/clean/lube the lock than to clean & lube the barrel.

 

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

I saw that gadget some time ago, it is made by Pedersoli ... when I told about it here on the forum (just trying to be informative - helpfull) I got so 'bashed' that I will never again mention any other 'novelty' again ... :shake: