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Cleaning Question

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I've recently acquired my first traditional muzzleloader and have run into a dilemma. When purchasing this rifle the first 5 inches of the bore looked clean as the day it was made, with the rest of the exterior finish being the same. Everything was tight and checked out so I bought it. Fast forward to today where I wanted to test out which patch diameter to buy for a slotted jag and my patch came out dirty. I put a few more down and kept getting black rifling marks on the patch. I quickly hopped on to Amazon and bought a nipple wrench but it won't be here for a few days. I want to clean this rifle ASAP to stop any further oxidation of the powder if this is what the issue is. Is there a way I can clean this barrel without removing the nipple? I'm wanting to use the good ol pump method I've read about with submerging the breech end in a bucket, but will this get water into places in the nipple that a few minutes with a blow drier wouldn't fix? Additionally, I'm starting to think that this black stuff is just residue from shooting a cap and then not cleaning due to the bore being so clean on the muzzle end. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.
 
I am a novice as well but I do not see why you cannot just clean it with the nipple on. It may take more force than without a nipple as the nipple will restrict flow somewhat.

I would do it and use brake cleaner or WD40 or something to make sure that there is no water left in the breech area.
 
I recently misplaced my nipple wrench for my rifles and the one for the revolvers wouldn't fit so I was able to remove them with a regular pair of pliers. (carefully) I'm sure this wouldn't work on all nipples but did for both of mine.

There will be more knowledgeable people along to give you a better answer soon, I just wanted to throw that out there.
 
Confirm that the gun is empty. Once you get by that, you can clean with the ‘pumping method’ as long the gun is empty and you have a clear path from the barrel through the nipple.

Don’t know if you were the one who shot the cap off, but NEVER pop a cap on an ‘empty’ gun you haven’t confirmed is not loaded. Anything from a smokeless load to a short loaded blackpowder load could be in the barrel. Could spell bad news for the gun, not to mention the safety of those nearby, at least in my opinion.
 
With the patch coming out black, you are not seeing rust. If you were using non-corrosive caps, then that's just residue from the cap.

Rifle and pistol nipple wrenches are not the same size. You need the rifle sized one.

You will find that you will soon be looking for a loading and cleaning rod. Very good ones are offered by Track of the Wolf in steel with muzzle protectors.
Hopefully you have the solvents (Water and Dish soap) to clean your rifle. Then you want oil to protect the bore.
 
Is this a used gun ?
What kind/brand/model?

The black could be lead fouling if someone had shot conical in it prior.
I have had to use a needle nose pliers or small wrench before to remove a nipple when I didn't have a nipple wrench, as mentioned be very careful doing it that way. one slip and you'll cuss for a month. If the nipple is rusted in or over tightened, you'll have to use the proper wrench, I only put my nipples in snug tight. Some ham fisted people thing it's a lug nut.
 
I have a small wrench from a cheapie dollar store set that I use for the nipple on one of my rifles.
I think it's a 8/32. Fits perfect.

I use to carry a small wrench in one bag because it took up less room than my nipple wrench. Might still be in there for all I know. :)
 
It's an Austin and halleck mountain rifle, MO made. $215 and looks brand new with an extra nice looking stock. Pictures coming soon. It wasnt me that shot the cap, just a suspicion. Good to hear it isnt rust as I'm wanting to take it out for some hunting next year. So I'm good to pump water through it, nipple unremoved, as long as the nipple path is clear?
 
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As others have said a small wrench will work to remove the nipple. I've used a small 1/4" combination wrench to move a nipple if it wasn't cranked down by a gorilla. When you get the nipple out and go to replace it use a bit of antisieze on the threads or even a touch of oil to keep it from rusting. Also, just snug the nipple. It doesn't need to be cranked down. If you are trying to take the nipple out, don't bugger it up trying to remove it.
 
I don’t remove the nipple every time I clean (pump method). I do make sure I have a good coat of lube (anti-seize) on the nipple threads when I do remove/replace it. And as noted above, just sung it down good.
 
You have a nipple wrench on the way, so I would just wait for it to arrive. If the bore has been in whatever condition for some time, it isn’t going to suddenly rot in the next few days.

While you wait for your nipple wrench, may want to start a wish list, particularly if this is your first muzzleloader, not just your first traditional muzzleloader. Others mentioned a range rod with a bore protector. Track of the Wolf or Rice Barrel are good sources for one. You will need a cleaning and possibly a loading jag, and a short starter is very helpful. In order to get the gun dirty, you will need blackpowder (subs are an option, but have a tendency to attract drama in my opinion), an adjustable volumetric powder measure, 100% cotton patch material, roundballs, percussion caps (likely #11) and a few other items. Spit will work for patch lube. There are many good sources for these and other accoutrements. From personal experience, at some point less stuff becomes more. Just a few unsolicited suggestions.
 
You can attach some surgical tubing onto the nipple and affix a patch on a ramrod jag. Stick one end of the tubing into a warm slurry of water and dish soap and start working that ramrod slowly up and down. Or just remove the barrel and stick the lower end into the bucket. Once the water in the basin becomes fouled pour it out and wash rinse repeat as necessary. When it's satisfactorily cleaned run some brushes down and a breech scraping jag and go all over again. When it's clean appropriately dry and oil. When you can remove the nipple it will probably need some attention to the threads. If you know the exact size a tap might help to remove corrosion. If you do not a small caliber brass jag on a rod sent spinning down should remove the offending fouling to be oiled back up replaced by a new nipple.
 
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There is no telling what the black stuff is on the patch without looking at it in person.

You can probably remove the nipple with a small open end wrench if you do not want to wait for your nipple wrench to be delivered. You can clean the barrel with or without the nipple installed.

From the looks of the picture, it appears it would be easy enough for you to remove the barrel. I'd remove the barrel and put it in a bucket, nipple first, with a couple of gallons of hot soapy water. I use water as hot as the tap will deliver it. Use a tight fitting patch and pump it up and down until you see water coming out of the muzzle. Once the water starts to clear up, toss the soapy water, then refill the bucket with clean hot tap water and repeat the process. If I've shot my rifle quite a bit, I let the barrel soak for 10 minutes or so before I start cleaning.

Run dry patches through the bore until they come out clean and dry, then apply some sort of rust preventative. If you have access to an air compressor, blow the water out before running patches through the bore, it will save you a few patches.

I have a bore scope to inspect the inside of the barrel and you would be amazed at how clean you can get a barrel with just soap and water. I've found that if I thoroughly clean the barrel with soap and hot water after each shooting outing, I rarely have to use a brush to clean the bore.
 
Black stuff is likely old oil. A small wrench as stated above works well to remove the nipple. Follow above advice about reinstalling. Make sure you re-oil after cleaning and drying.
Walk
 
Assuming it’s a used rifle, it’s quite possible that the black residue is residual carbon/graphite, that can remain even after proper cleaning and lubrication when using many of the water based cleaning solvents. Rust/brown coloration on your patch would be more concerning. I’d try cleaning with a solvent/cleaning procedure known to remove carbon residue and/or any other organics like grease/oil.
 
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