cleaning rust??

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David Snellen

40 Cal.
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Jan 28, 2008
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Gentlemen,
I recently aquired an old cva 'kentucky pistol'. I am big on cleaning, so I have never had a rust problem before. This one is rusty but not pitted badly.
What is the best way to clean the rust, and will it be more prone to rusting in the future? The outside isn't bad, the worst on the inside is where the load would sit.
Thanks,
David
 
I've had good luck removing rust, inside and out, using penetrating oil and fine steel wool. Ballistol, Kroil, and probably most any other oil will work fine. Rub gently, wipe, reoil and rub some more.

Same with the bore. Wrap some steel wool around a brush, use plenty of oil and give 'er a few strokes. Wipe with a patch and repeat.

You won't know what condition the bore is in until you get the rust out, but a few pits generally don't effect anything. You can always lap the bore if it turns out to be too rough.

I've salvaged a few seriously rusty bores this way and they turned out to be good shooters.
 
'Lapping' the bore means to polish the bore with automotive valve lapping compound, an abrasive paste that is used in grinding valve surfaces on combustion engines to remove combustion products and return them to their proper dimensions.
 
Does that do any damage to the bore? the finish? Do you have to season the bore after that?
Thanks,
David
 
Hi David,

Lapping doesn't damage the bore if done properly. In fact, the makers of the finest barrels hand lap their bores. The compound is very fine and doesn't actually remove much metal. What it does is polish off machining marks and roughness, while not effecting overall dimensions of the bore. Shooting a couple hundred rounds through the bore has about the same effect.

Lapping is a bit of a pain to do though, so go shoot the gun after you get it cleaned up. It may shoot just fine for you without any further work.

As for seasoning the bore. Lapping does take the bore down to the bare, shiny metal. If you're one who likes a seasoned bore, you will need to re-season it. I don't do the seasoning thing, myself.
 
:v I have used toothpaste as a very fine lapping compound mixed with a bit of Kroil or WD-40 on shotgun type mops for application. This is a slower way to remove surface rust, you can speed it up by using some 0000 steel wool and standard aluminum oxide powder in oil, as a honing paste. A good hour or so, depending on the amount of surface rust, followed by a good flushing, drying and oiling of the barrel. That's the way I do it---- :hatsoff:
 
Wow!
I never knew this! I have always kept my guns clean, so I never needed this before, but, since getting this trade....
Thanks for the information!
David
 
greetings dave,

if you have any crusty rust on the outside, scrape it off with a copper penny. it won't scratch the metal..

..ttfn..grampa..
 
That's good advice about the penny. I had forgotten all about that.

There's also a product that looks like those shredded metal potscrubber things, but it's made specifically for removing rust without effecting the metal's finish. It's called Frontier Metal Cleaner. I haven't had the need to use it many times yet, but it worked fast and effectively when I did. I use it mostly to scrub lead out from my revolver bores. It does that in a jiffy too, when used with a little Ballistol.
 
greetings plink,

that shiny pot scrubber is the same stuff. only a lot cheaper. :grin:

..ttfn..grampa.
 
Dave,
I have expressed cleaning surface rust
with you someplace else.Although there is a place
for "lapping",use it as a last result if ever
for surface rust.Pitted rust is a different
animal altogether,and may be helped by "lapping".
snake-eyes:hmm:
 
Snake Eyes, I ordered it direct from the company. I'm not sure where else it's available. It's pretty handy stuff for lead removal. Here's the website. A google search might find you better deals.
www.frontiermetalcleaner.com
 
Last edited by a moderator:
plink,
I contacted them and it was $5 including
shipping.I have spent a lot more for a lot
less prospect.
snake-eyes :v
 

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