Cleaning up castings

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When cleaning up brass castings (triggerguards and buttplates), I know to keep the lines straight and angles sharp, but at what point are small pits considerred acceptable? I don't get the opportunity to handle originals--what degree of pitting do they have?

Also, what is the best way to get a sharp, clean angle in a buttplate at the inside corner where the tang extension meets the butt?

Thanks in advance for you help.
 
For cleaning up the inside of the buttplate I solder a bolt to the back side of it. Gives it a good handle for the vise to hold on to, then just use a good sharp file. I will remove all casting flaws I can unless they go way too deep.
 
Originals have pitting and the makers would not change a shape, risk a dish or swoop to get rid of pits. Pits can be peened closed to some extent then gently smoothened.

Not all schools of rifles have a real sharp angle at the place where the heel meets the tang. Make sure that fits your style or era.
 
You don't have to look at too many original guns to see that they didn't worry too much about casting pits....there wasn't much that they could do about them anyway. You will also notice file marks....lots of them. People today tend to greatly over polish their metal.

If one goes to the Frazier Museum in Louisville, they can see the "Washington" J.P. Beck rifle on display. There are about three large casting pits in the buttplate, two in the sideplate, and probably some in the triggerguard. :winking:

You can, of course, fill them with silver solder or even just tin. It will look kinda like a zinc deposit which you will see in brass sometimes.
 
I have found a 5" fine grit flap wheel chucked in my drill press, on highest speed to work the best. It doesnt bite in and take out chunks, but with persistence will take out the casting marks and high bumps. It does leave the pits though, but so will filing.
 
Roy said:
For cleaning up the inside of the buttplate I solder a bolt to the back side of it. Gives it a good handle for the vise to hold on to, then just use a good sharp file. I will remove all casting flaws I can unless they go way too deep.
Roy, Thanks for the tip about the bolt. It's tips like this that make working on these projects much more enjoyable and makes the learning curve a bit easier for us newcomers.
 
On brass sand castings I don't give pits much thought, and they are found on the originals.
 
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