Cleaning up old leather

[morehops]

I have some old knife sheathes that are in need of some care. Some are so old that they are nearly falling apart. Most are just a little dirty but have a musty smell. A few have a white mold in areas.
If anyone has had experience in successfully treating these leather problems I would appreciate some help.

 

[Len Graves]

If your sheath are falling apart you might re-sew them., of course if the leather is that gone it might be a waste of time. I have had some luck using a product called snow seal which has bee's wax and some other stuff in it. It is for water proofing , but will penetrate old leather well. I smear it on and then use a hair drier to melt it into the leather then buff it to a sheen. I have also used ballistol for leather, works well, but I don't like the smell. There is always neats foot oil ( same method as snow seal) or saddle soap. In a pinch I have used wonder lube. Good luck. P.S. snow seal is very good for dry cracking hands.

 

[morehops]

Snow seal is a great sealer. I use it on all of my leather boots. First I've got to get the sheaths clean and mold gone. Once clean I've got plenty of preservatives.

 

[woodse guy]

Use the saddle soap to clean. If you have mold on leather you can spray Lysol on it and wipe it off it will kill the mold. DO NOT let it sit on the leather for a long time. My brother uses Lysol on his saddles to kill the mold and has no problems.

 

[phoenix511]

Pretty tough to get aged leather back to new.
If the items are falling apart, there is little that can be done, other than to stop the deterioration. One cannot restore it to original condition.

A product call "Pecard Leather Dressing" (a very stiff waxy product, dabbed on with a cloth, then rubbed in) is used by many conservators and museum restoration people. http://www.pecard.com/

It appears similar to SnoSeal, a product already recommended. Pecard is claimed to be neutral and will not harm the leather, and can be reversed/removed with water.

Leather deteriorates with age as it is often tanned with chemicals that shorten its life, and sometimes long exposure to sunlight, plus human and animal perspiration all degrade it.

Otherwise use the sheaths you have and enjoy them, cleaning them up as others have already described.

 

[morehops]

I agree that there's not much to be done wit the deteriorated ones. I'll try some saddle soap on the dirty ones. Will try to pick up some Picard products. Thank.

 

[Rifleman1776]

If the leather is dry and crumbly it is gone. Nothing will restore it. If just dirty but still supple, I like neatsfoot oil and will soak the item in that. Others will argue, but I have experienced no difference between pure neatsfoot and the kind with silicone in it. Do allow to soak well.
To just clean, damp rag with soap is fine. Follow with protectant like neatsfoot, mink oil or others.
If I'm using one of the creams like mink, sno seal, etc. I'll apply generously then rub in using a hair dryer to apply heat and help melt into the leather.

 

[Marc Adamchek]

Just to steer this thread a little bit, what do you all recommend for leather that's been in a damp space and has mold on it?

The leather itself is in quite good shape, actually. No rot or anything like deterioation. Strong and supple, just with mold spots.

 

[Moose Guide]

Neetsfoot oil just like Rifleman said, we have many saddles, 3 are over 100 years old and one is closer to 150! We have found nothing better than Neetsfoot oil for leather care!

 

[Rifleman1776]

That surface mold has never created problems for me. I just wipe off. I suppose, if left alone for a long time it might eat away at the leather. I have knife sheaths 20 to 50+ years old still soft with minimal care.

 

[Marc Adamchek]

Rifleman, what do you "wipe off" with? A damp sponge? Neatsfoot oil? A leather balm? You are correct, it is all surface mold, but rather stubborn.

Warhawk, this isn't the first time I've heard neatsfoot oil recommended, I shall pick some up. My memory is that neatsfoot oil is always to be applied behind the surface leather and it seeps upward/outward. True?

 

[Rifleman1776]

Rifleman, what do you "wipe off" with? A damp sponge? Neatsfoot oil? A leather balm? You are correct, it is all surface mold, but rather stubborn.

Warhawk, this isn't the first time I've heard neatsfoot oil recommended, I shall pick some up. My memory is that neatsfoot oil is always to be applied behind the surface leather and it seeps upward/outward. True?

I wipe off with whatever is handy. I keep a roll of Viva paper towels on a rack in my shop and probably use those most often.
Neatfoot oil soaks in and through the leather. Slop it on any way you want.

 

[Coot]

If in doubt about leather care, a visit to a tack (horse gear) shop may be productive. Murphys oil soap, saddlesoap, castile soap and tepid water all work for cleaning - wiping with a damp cloth not soaking & scrubbing. For preservation, pure neatsfoot oil, Lexol and Adams English tack wax all work. Once leather dries out to the point that it is flakey, it is weakened/damaged beyond repair & will tear or break easily.

 

[Moose Guide]

We have always just applied a good coating to the outside, remember, you dont want the leather soaked in it.

 

[Rifleman1776]

you dont want the leather soaked in it.

If you are talking about Neatsfoot oil, I disagree.
Yes, you want the item soaked in it to get all the leather all the way through. The item needs to set or hang for a while after being treated to get excess out, then wiped to get more out. Then caution needs to be used to not stain clothes for a while after treating. But, complete treating is important and will help your item last many years.

 

[MSW]

I've used mink oil to good effect - i suspect it's pretty similar to NeatsFoot oil.