Cleaning

[Caleb Foster]

I’m still figuring out my cleaning method but I cleaned my smoothie on the range yesterday and it was really humid. Here’s my method

-pulled lock (soaked in Ballistol) set aside and wait while I start on bore.

- plug touch hole with a toothpick and run cold soapy water until I get clear water

- swab with patches and Ballistol until I get a clean patch

- wipe down lock and re install.

I’ve been really pleased with this method but this morning I tired something else after I ran a patch and it came out dirty again….

I used a piece of scotch brite and scrubbed the bore. You can see my progression from right to left, after scrubbing the bore with scotch brite I was pulling really dirty patches once more, but it didn’t take long to get a clean patch after that. I guess the scotch brite really knocked loose some more crud!

Last step is to coat inside and outside of gun with a coat of Ballistol and hang it up till next time.

 

[Florida airgunner]

Just make sure you don't snap that toothpick while it's in the vent. Had that happen to me, it wasn't fun lol

 

[Caleb Foster]

Just make sure you don't snap that toothpick while it's in the vent. Had that happen to me, it wasn't fun lol

Doesn’t sound fun haha

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Barrel - TOW (flax fibers) works well too, a natural 'ScotchBrite' scouring treatment used 100s of years before S-B was even invented!

I do the toothpick/barrel soak rinse a few times, even putting my thumb over the muzzle and tilting the butt-end up to the sky - hold - tip back slowly and repeat. Sometimes I even rotate the arm into a different position to 'wet/rinse' a different area of the barrel.

Works slick, as I can clean a smoothie FAST! So much faster than rifles ... Once cleaned (I check the next day, then add Birchwood Casey's "Barricade" on a wet patch the next day, before putting aside or away. And I don't worry if a patch doesn't come out later as clean a white new underwear, as after using the Barricade, there WILL be a tan color to the patch upon removal. The thing is, the combination of water soak, then WD40 or Ballistol and/or Barricade or your oil of choice ... all killed the salts that would otherwise corrode a bore.

Lock - IMHO, there's no need to immerse a lock. At the range I do wipe it down with a patch or 2 sprayed with Windex (w/ vinegar mix, or add a splash of white vinegar to any plain ol' bottle of Windex). At home, I tilt the open end of the pan down towards the sink, spray the lock/pan area with a dilution of Ballistol & water in a spray bottle, then brush it all in/off with an old toothbrush. Then I rinse it in tepid water and set aside to dry. In Winters, I set them up on the heat duct out of my furnace to dry. In other seasons, I bring it upstairs with me and hit it for a few minutes with the Admiral's hair dryer. Then I oil it.

 

[Caleb Foster]

Barrel - TOW (flax fibers) works well too, a natural 'ScotchBrite' scouring treatment used 100s of years before S-B was even invented!

I do the toothpick/barrel soak rinse a few times, even putting my thumb over the muzzle and tilting the butt-end up to the sky - hold - tip back slowly and repeat. Sometimes I even rotate the arm into a different position to 'wet/rinse' a different area of the barrel.

Works slick, as I can clean a smoothie FAST! So much faster than rifles ... Once cleaned (I check the next day, then add Birchwood Casey's "Barricade" on a wet patch the next day, before putting aside or away. And I don't worry if a patch doesn't come out later as clean a white new underwear, as after using the Barricade, there WILL be a tan color to the patch upon removal. The thing is, the combination of water soak, then WD40 or Ballistol and/or Barricade or your oil of choice ... all killed the salts that would otherwise corrode a bore.

Lock - IMHO, there's no need to immerse a lock. At the range I do wipe it down with a patch or 2 sprayed with Windex (w/ vinegar mix, or add a splash of white vinegar to any plain ol' bottle of Windex). At home, I tilt the open end of the pan down towards the sink, spray the lock/pan area with a dilution of Ballistol & water in a spray bottle, then brush it all in/off with an old toothbrush. Then I rinse it in tepid water and set aside to dry. In Winters, I set them up on the heat duct out of my furnace to dry. In other seasons, I bring it upstairs with me and hit it for a few minutes with the Admiral's hair dryer. Then I oil it.

Thanks for this info. I’ve been paranoid of water getting between the barrel and stock because inevitably it seems like a little gets in there when I’m washing out the bore with my thumb over barrel like you do.

 

[BoomStick]

At the range, 4 or 5 wet cleaning patches then one dry. Full cleaning when I get home.

I don't immerse the lock, and even after a full day of shooting find only a little residue along the top of the bolster inside. So a wipe of the interior is pretty quick, followed by a light oil. The pan, frizzen, **** and exterior plate are usually the crudiest parts and a soft brush works well for me.

 

[Celt5494]

Thanks for this info. I’ve been paranoid of water getting between the barrel and stock because inevitably it seems like a little gets in there when I’m washing out the bore with my thumb over barrel like you do.

It's purely my opinion but if the channel of your gun stock is treated properly it shouldn't affect the wood nor the gun metal of the barrel at all. These firearms were made to be used in all conditions outside. That being said, if it does get excessively wet set the firearm where it can properly dry and you'll be fine. I very rarely take my barrels off when cleaning them as they are pinned and I don't want them to loosen over time due to excessive removal and replacement. Every few years I'll remove them to clean and inspect everything. After I apply my oil of choice to them and re-install until next time. I do commonly remove my locks after shooting a lot as I find the fired priming powder has a way of working itself onto the backside. I want to prevent corrosion but they are put in place with set screws and not pins. It gives me a good chance to inspect the inner workings of the lock and address anything I see that doesn't look right.

 

[Caleb Foster]

It's purely my opinion but if the channel of your gun stock is treated properly it shouldn't affect the wood nor the gun metal of the barrel at all. These firearms were made to be used in all conditions outside. That being said, if it does get excessively wet set the firearm where it can properly dry and you'll be fine. I very rarely take my barrels off when cleaning them as they are pinned and I don't want them to loosen over time due to excessive removal and replacement. Every few years I'll remove them to clean and inspect everything. After I apply my oil of choice to them and re-install until next time. I do commonly remove my locks after shooting a lot as I find the fired priming powder has a way of working itself onto the backside. I want to prevent corrosion but they are put in place with set screws and not pins. It gives me a good chance to inspect the inner workings of the lock and address anything I see that doesn't look right.

That gives me some peace of mind, I was told not to really take the barrel out

 

[Grenadier1758]

Just make sure you don't snap that toothpick while it's in the vent. Had that happen to me, it wasn't fun lol

I simply pushed the broken toothpick through the touch hole. It will come out when the gun is shot or picked up in the cleaning patch.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Thanks for this info. I’ve been paranoid of water getting between the barrel and stock because inevitably it seems like a little gets in there when I’m washing out the bore with my thumb over barrel like you do.

Good concern and question!

What I do on any new to me musket or rifle is to carefully move the barrel pins and remove the barrel. I clean it really well, then I apply Birchwood Casey’s ‘Barricade’ product, a liquid wax, and then I even apply a little Rig grease (or a synthetic waterproof grease, see to follow) to the last few inches of the muzzle that lies in the stock.

FWIW, for any muzzleloaders who also happen to be boaters, the OMC/Bombardier company grease called “Triple Guard” is a superior waterproof grease. It is quite thick, won’t run, and yet it will still protect even when compromised 30% with saltwater, so that’s how good it is!

 

[Snydly]

When you are done cleaning your muzzleloader and it is ***** and span....Put some flitz on a patch and run it down the barrel. You will be surprised at the crud that is still in there.