Cock Stop Shelf Configuration?

[Erzulis boat]

This was my first build, so I was "freewheeling" it. You will see that I inlet the lock to the outer bevel, and just continued all the way to the pan to expose the cock stop shelf. Is this correct? Or do I cut a clearance pocket only at the cock stop shoulder location and make the wood lockpanel follow the chamfer only until it ends, then run the wood flush with the top of the lockplate?


Small Siler flintlock-
Rust blued barrel (Herters Belgian Blue)-
California Claro Walnut (no stain!)-

 

[Black Hand]

I cut a clearance channel for the cock so there is meat around the lock. The wood can get so thin in this area when it is carved to the 1/8" or so in width.
Black Hand

 

[Erzulis boat]

Is it a squared clearance channel, or a curve?

The reason I am hot on this issue is that the Chambers Christian's spring lock has an outer moulding shelf that is 1/16" tall!

Should I trim the lockpanel all the way down to the moulding, leaving a 1/16" deep lock mortise then run the wood flush at top?

This would present a pretty radical transition, and I am wondering if it will look fine as viewed from the top.

 

[Mike Brooks]

Have you been reading Gunbuilding 101? the answer is there.

 

[Erzulis boat]

I could not tell from the images.

You stated that the lock should be inlet halfway, but I could have sworn that I saw an image (elsewhere) that the builder followed the bevel only.

When you state "Halfway" does this apply regardless of vertical moulding, even if it is only vertical for a third of the lockplate thickness? (As in my Trans rifle lock)

Am I to assume that the above image is the correct method? (The Siler inlet)

 

[Mike Brooks]

All locks, wether they have a beaded moulding or are round faced get inlet to the level of the bevel.

 

[Erzulis boat]

Okay- bear with me here........

The lockpanel will be completely flat?

So, my Chambers lock mortise is 1/16" deep around the entire perimeter?

The cock stop shelf protrudes 1/8" along it's entire length?

 

[Erzulis boat]

Well, now I am more confused than ever.

I just checked out a bunch of rifles on TOTW.

Some appear to be inlet flush with the top flat surface of the lock (the bevel is buried) with a large cutout for the arc of the cock, some being very minimal, and others continue until they hit the pan.

Yet, some others seem to split the difference, and bury perhaps half the bevel, allowing the stop shelf to be exposed, but appear not to have a cock notch.

I could not see one that only inlet the vertical portion prior to the bevel start.

So is my Siler not deep enough? Or does variance in technique allow this?

 

[Mike Brooks]

Okay- bear with me here........

The lockpanel will be completely flat?

So, my Chambers lock mortise is 1/16" deep around the entire perimeter?

The cock stop shelf protrudes 1/8" along it's entire length?

This is correct. Any contemporary gun tou see on TOTW isn't correct just because it's on their web site. The lock is inlet to what ever the bevel depth is.
You will have to cut a cock notch too.

Theis lock is fully inlet to the bevel. the lock panel is absolutly flat. the cock notch has not been cut yet.

 

[Erzulis boat]

Even the Guys at Track told me that some were incorrect too! One builder goes waaay too deep according to them.
If you check the images, one builder will show himself instantly.
Now I know what to look for when it comes to lock mortise depth.


Thanks Mike :thumbsup:

 

[spitfire]

The lock is inlet to what ever the bevel depth is.
You will have to cut a cock notch too.

This lock is fully inlet to the bevel. the lock panel is absolutly flat. the cock notch has not been cut yet.[/quote]-This allows for tight wood/metal fit. :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

IMO, the lockplates bolster and the barrel determine the depth of the lock. They should just contact when the lock is bottomed in the mortice.

The edge of the lock on a roundface lock, or the edge of the chamfer on a flat faced lock determines the location (or height) of the wood panal. It should be as Mike has shown in his photo.

The need for a cock notch, it's size and depth, will be determined by the cock on the lock.
For most Caplocks, there may not be a cock notch at all depending on the locks hammer.

The rifle I'm starting now is a going to represent a Flintlock modified to a Caplock.
In this case, the stock will have the cocknotch even though it is not needed to clear the Flintlocks new Caplock hammer.