Colt 1860 Army 2nd Generation

[Rfp10000]

So I got a Colt 1860 Army 2nd Generation that is unfired . It has all matching serial numbers that I can find .
I took the barrel and cylinder off & used some straight Ballistol on them.
The gun cocks to 1/2 and full cock and cylinder spins but the wedge does not go all the way back in. It seems to get hung up right when it should be getting through the frame .
I’ll take it all apart and clean it up because I’m sure it’s a little gummy from being in storage all these years and it’s fun to do anyway!

If anyone with experience with these guns can offer any help on getting the wedge back in all the way I’d like to here it.

Ron

 

[steg49]

I just check mine and as I thought the barrel key (wedge) slips in easy till it engages the right side of the frame then it is tight. I use a small soft headed hammer to tap it in the rest of the way. I want it tight so the barrel does not back away from the cylinder. Check and make sure your barrel is pushed in all the way, then If YOU WANT gently tap the wedge in till the locking spring and catch are in place. To remove my wedge I need to push down of the locking spring then gently tap the wedge till it is even with the frame then I can pull it out by hand. Just the way mine works someone else may have different thoughts. steg49

 

[Rfp10000]

Sounds similar to mine …I think the gun was made in 1979 & I’m cautious about just hitting it with anything on day 1. I got the wedge out using a wooden dowel I had cut down to do wedges … got it out pretty easily. It’s nice because the wedge does not fall out when it’s out far enough to take off the barrel . The set screw above seems to hold it in place .
It seems this cylinder will not be as easy to remove as the Remington NMA for reloading ..I always load the Remington with paper cartridges on a loading stand rather than in the gun.
Colt seems like you really have to reload in the gun…

 

[Phil Coffins]

You might consider a different oil as Ballistol does nothing to repel water.

 

[Rfp10000]

I took out the set screw for the wedge to take it out to check the little retaining spring which seems to flex just fine . Tried tapping the wedge in with a plastic headed mallet but it just won’t go back in… taking it easy for now.

 

[44Bro]

Tap the head of the wedge towards the cylinder then tap it home.

 

[poker]

Wedges arent supposed to be driven in “all the way”. Just so they barely come thru is typically correct. Check your barrel to cylinder gap as you put one in and you will see why.

 

[Rfp10000]

I actually got it through without the arbor. The spring lip that’s supposed to hook on the right side of gun is hanging up rather than passing through the frame. It looks to have been slightly blunted on one side.
I used a small pick to depress the spring via the arbor hole and it went in easily. It’s a matching number part so I don’t really want to screw with it so I ordered an Uberti wedge to see if I can make that work. I bought the gun to shoot so I’ll just keep the numbered wedge in the Box with the papers etc …if I get the Uberti wedge to do the job.

BTW , what size balls do any of you use in a 2nd Gen. & do you disassemble completely for cleaning ?

 

[Rfp10000]

duplicate mistake

 

[Rfp10000]

Issue resolved by getting a Uberti replacement wedge filing a bit off. I have to use a brass wedge tool to tap it out and a plastic headed hammer to put it in so the wedge is a nice tight fit. The gun was made in 1979 and unfired to date. A nice reissue from Colt.

 

[Rfp10000]

One more thing … I prefer loading the cylinder out of the gun as I do with Remingtons.
I use a brass wedge tool to knock out the wedge but the spring retainer that hooks on the barrel has left a mark on the barrel from repeatedly pounding it out. I fear continued use of this method might wear the barrel at that point so the spring retainer no longer works .
I’m wondering if there is a better way. I tried to push down the spring clip as I push the wedge out but found this to be a pain so I just knock out the wedge.
Any suggestions from experienced Colt folks?

 

[45D]

Well for what it's worth, you ARE supposed to "drive" the wedge in and out. The mark made by the wedge spring is unavoidable and the only reason there is a "nib" on the end of the spring is so it will catch itself on the head of the wedge screw (not a "set screw"). It isn't there as a depth gauge. The likelihood that you can't drive it in until it's tight is because it will lock up the cylinder . . . when the barrel contacts the cylinder . . . because the arbor is too short. The arbors are too short on every replica ever made with the exception of those made by Pietta in the last dozen yrs or so. This failure in the reproduction of the open top revolver is why (depending on the tollerance stack) they will eventually beat themselves into a mess. That is the most severe problem with them, the other problem with most replicas is the atrocious state of the action parts. Of course all of these things are what allows these revolvers to be had (normally) for "cheap" or "inexpensive" compared to a cartridge revolver. Sadly, the Colt 2nd gens et.al. are no different and are typically some of the worst ever to come across the bench.
All that said, fortunately, these revolvers can in fact be made to function reliably and in some cases, rival some of the finest revolvers ever made!!

Mike

 

[Bad Karma]

I actually got it through without the arbor. The spring lip that’s supposed to hook on the right side of gun is hanging up rather than passing through the frame. It looks to have been slightly blunted on one side.
I used a small pick to depress the spring via the arbor hole and it went in easily. It’s a matching number part so I don’t really want to screw with it so I ordered an Uberti wedge to see if I can make that work. I bought the gun to shoot so I’ll just keep the numbered wedge in the Box with the papers etc …if I get the Uberti wedge to do the job.

BTW , what size balls do any of you use in a 2nd Gen. & do you disassemble completely for cleaning ?View attachment 87797

In that gun 454 will work well. I pump the action full of mobil one synthetic grease and cleaning consists of cleaning the cylinder, barrel and wiping dow the exterior. That’s it. Every year or so I will clean out the lockworks, fill it back up with grease and carry on. Colts directions are to,drive the wedge and I use a small piece of an old hammer handle. When I pop the wedge out I use the flat surface of the handle to sort of pop it free and grasp it with my fingers. Easy. I often load off the guns, it’s not a big deal.

 

[Rfp10000]

The gun is fine. Since I’m used to remingtons and the ease of changing out cylinders I was just wondering if anyone with more colt experience has a way a depressing the spring as they push the wedge through or if just pounding out the wedge with a brass or wooden tool is what everyone does. I’m currently using a brass wedge tool that I use on a muzzleloader shotgun.

 

[45D]

Get a "machinist hammer". It has hard plastic hammer faces that are perfect for wedge removal / installation. That's what I use in the shop.
In the meantime, your arbor is still short . . .

Mike