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Completely giddy about this stock!

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RobertIN

West Harrison, Indiana
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Sanded and whiskered at 320, one light pass at 400.
One coat tannic acid from Kibler.
Two coats iron nitrate from Kibler.
T&T varnish oil applied with a maroon scotch pad.
Wiped and buffed with microfiber towel.

Cannot wait to get some more t&t on there again this evening.
 
View attachment 282211View attachment 282212View attachment 282208View attachment 282209View attachment 282210

Sanded and whiskered at 320, one light pass at 400.
One coat tannic acid from Kibler.
Two coats iron nitrate from Kibler.
T&T varnish oil applied with a maroon scotch pad.
Wiped and buffed with microfiber towel.

Cannot wait to get some more t&t on there again this evening.
Striking curl, absolutely beautiful. Well done, you have something to be really proud of.
 
Robert don't forget to show us the finished rifle when you're done. Love the way it's coming along.

I want to do mine in iron nitrate followed by T & T.

Don't know if a coat of permalyn should be used after the iron nitrate tho.
 
Robert don't forget to show us the finished rifle when you're done. Love the way it's coming along.

I want to do mine in iron nitrate followed by T & T.

Don't know if a coat of permalyn should be used after the iron nitrate tho.
I sure will! Finished cleaning up brass and cutting slots in underlugs last night. All that's left is a few more coats of T&T, install the sights, then assembly.
 
Put a thin smear of the T&T on a piece of glass or clear plastic packaging material and place with the stock in your drying area. When the smear is dry, your stock is ready for another coat. You may find it takes many weeks. Applying multiple coats before the previous one has cured will cause the finish to take upwards of a year to fully cure.
 
Put a thin smear of the T&T on a piece of glass or clear plastic packaging material and place with the stock in your drying area. When the smear is dry, your stock is ready for another coat. You may find it takes many weeks. Applying multiple coats before the previous one has cured will cause the finish to take upwards of a year to fully cure.
Don't want that! It's pretty dry here and I have it hanging in a spare bathroom around 70-75° when I'm not home. It's hanging in a window frame right now trying to get some sunlight if only the blasted clouds would go away.
 
Robert don't forget to show us the finished rifle when you're done. Love the way it's coming along.

I want to do mine in iron nitrate followed by T & T.

Don't know if a coat of permalyn should be used after the iron nitrate tho.
I'm not sure, I was going to go permalyn but I ordered the gunstock finish instead of sealer by mistake. I don't see why it would hurt to put some on the iron nitrate then t&t, but I'm a total amateur so best to ask somebody who knows better than I.
 
I'm not sure, I was going to go permalyn but I ordered the gunstock finish instead of sealer by mistake. I don't see why it would hurt to put some on the iron nitrate then t&t, but I'm a total amateur so best to ask somebody who knows better than I.
So am I. Hoping to hear from some folks with experience at this. I'm kinda thinking : Stain ,, Seal ,, Color. Hope that's in the ball park.
 
I'd be giddy too, that is gorgeous!
I'm to clumsy and incompetent to even own a stock that pretty.
 
I'm not sure, I was going to go permalyn but I ordered the gunstock finish instead of sealer by mistake. I don't see why it would hurt to put some on the iron nitrate then t&t, but I'm a total amateur so best to ask somebody who knows better than I.
When I did my SMR I used two coats of aqua fortis, blushed after each coat, then one coat of permalyn sealer on the exterior with two coats in the inlets, then Tried and True varnish oil. Looks great!

I think you can thin the permalyn finish and it will act like the sealer. I used the Tried and True to avoid the glossier appearance of the permalyn.
 
T&T varnish oil will work just fine on top of polyurethane (Permalyn) as long as the first finish isn't thick and glossy. You can also seal the wood with shellac as a first coat over the stain. However, for best figure, put your linseed oil finish on FIRST, then worry about the sealing finishes. If you don't want it glossy, just keep up with the T&T. I don't care what the instructions say, it does not dry in 24 hours, especially below 80F. It takes mine about three weeks per very thin, hand-rubbed coat at 80-90F and 50% RH to fully cure.

You want to put the T&T on, let it soak for a few minutes, rub it vigorously to heat it and re-distribute it where it soaked in, let it sit another hour, and buff it "dry" with a clean rag. It takes about 4-6 coats by itself to really get a good finish going. If you want the grain filled you will need to use a varnish with a little more resin. Mixing Minwax Antique Oil finish about 60/40 with T&T will both add dryers to the oil, thin the oil, and add an additional load of resins to it that make a slightly harder finish and bump it from matte to satin in gloss.

For more waterproofing, you can build PURE tung oil on top of the first coat of T&T varnish oil and the grain will have more depth than with tung oil alone.
 
When I did my SMR I used two coats of aqua fortis, blushed after each coat, then one coat of permalyn sealer on the exterior with two coats in the inlets, then Tried and True varnish oil. Looks great!

I think you can thin the permalyn finish and it will act like the sealer. I used the Tried and True to avoid the glossier appearance of the permalyn.
I'd like to see a photo of that rifle !
 
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