Copper pot build

[running horse]

Disclaimer, I am not a professional braiser and do limited sheet metal work to begin with, I have no originals to study up close all I have are pictures from the internet that claim to be original early 18th century. Proceed with caution.

I've been wanting to build a copper pot for years and finally got around to it. The copper came from a secret source so good luck, ok I went to the local seamless gutter company and asked if they had any left over and they had a piece they had no use for. It cost me about $10 a foot and the owner wasn't there so we will see next time if I get the same price. The pot is built about how an early 18th century braiser would but done with modern tools.

 

[running horse]

Sorry guys trying to figure out adding pictures this one is lasting or the body. Determine the diameter of your pot divide that in half which gives you your radius then do the math 2Ï€r will give you circumference or the length needed for your pot,I rounded to the nearest inch. Add about 3/8-1/2 in to one side for your seam, determine the height you want add about 3/8-1/2 in for you bottom dovetails and I'm guessing about 1/4-3/8in for you top rolled edge. Some pots I saw didn't have the time edge but I wanted the strength.
https://flic.kr/p/271hoA1

 

[running horse]

I marked a line 3/8in and 1/2in up from the bottom and folded at the 1/2in line and marked the other line at 1/2in increments. Then cut small v notches at those marks to the 3/8 line. Tin snips cut the copper just fine I used a notcher to cut the v to keep them even, and you can use pliers, the edge of a table a bar fold or sheet metal break to bend at the 1/2in line. The one end was marked at about 3/8in in and about every 5/8 in up the side then cut at the marks to the line straight with snips

 

[running horse]

https://flic.kr/p/25kJBuU
https://flic.kr/p/KXKW2L

Bend each team on the end alternating direction

Still trying to figure out pictures.

 

[running horse]

At this point anneal the sheet, get it good and hot (near a dull red) then quench in water (cool). At this point gently round the pot. I recommend using a scrap piece of pipe probably no smaller than about 2", gently apply small amounts of downward pressure and pull it around the pipe multiple times rounding it more every time.

https://flic.kr/p/26JdBuH

 

[running horse]

At this point I recommend having a mandrel or scrap of pipe a little smaller than pot size to place the pot on, close the gap between the two ends and tap the tabs town fairly flat and as smooth as you can work a hammer. If you use anything else you may flatten the pot to much around the seam. Then using your preferred method tack the seam together from the inside. I used a type of silver solder or braising rod for to it's high melting point. This will help hold the pot together wile you insert the bottom. The one spot to the left I tried to braise from the outside and it didn't turn out as nice as the inside and harder to cover up.

https://flic.kr/p/25kScW5

 

[running horse]

Take your now round pot and measure it, Mark and cut out a bottom. Flip the pot upside-down so you're looking at the tabs, bend every other tab up leaving the rest straight. Check fit and trim bottom accordingly, pace back on pipe and gently hammer down and flatten tabs, then recheck and round pot. I am short a pipe so I will finish this up during the week.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/142430636@N02/shares/XMAg1G

 

[running horse]

Wile I'm waiting for the steel supplier to open,I drew out my tabs and cut them out, I will file the edges and fine time the shape and drill holes for rivets and bail before installing tabs.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/142430636@N02/shares/r43BTx

 

[running horse]

I will try to get things squared away Monday and keep going.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Does it hold water yet?

:wink:

LD

 

[Black Hand]

I would have avoided the tabs on the bottom - makes it more difficult to clean as the inside isn't smooth. As you are brazing, the chances the bottom would get too hot and separate are slim/none.

 

[BillinOregon]

Eric, once you switched to the Flickr link with "shares" in it, the photos became visible. I like your pot so far!

 

[Black Hand]

This guy makes it look easy... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abMsu4BdjB8

 

[Loyalist Dave]

See, nuthin' to it..., :bow:

LD

 

[Black Hand]

I was intrigued with his method of attaching the bottom. No way the bottom is coming loose and is probably watertight even without tinning/soldering.

 

[running horse]

https://flic.kr/p/26QLgc8
https://flic.kr/p/28dk38i
https://flic.kr/p/288YWhq
https://flic.kr/p/277WZBS
https://flic.kr/p/JyqR28
Sorry it's taking a bit of time guys. Here was the next step I bent the top 1/4"or so of the rim out to a 90° angle all around then the first inch I bent to be parallel with the sides of the pot going down. I then placed a steel wire ( cheep thin coat hanger) in the picker formed and began pinching it around with a hammer. Once it was pinched all the way around I went around again with a mallet ( rubber or rawhide they both worked) closing the gap between the rolled rim and the sides of the pot. I went around again (last time I promise) with the wedged side of a sheet metal hammer really rolling that edge up and in and finishing most of it really well. The top edge was done all freehand so there are a couple bumps in it where I bent it a little too much or not enough so I would recommend trying to keep it as even as possible.

 

[running horse]

The bottom definitely isn't going any where unfortunately it isn't water tight without braising, perhaps if I cut lines much tighter but not with this design. There is a different way to attach the bottom starting out much like rolling the rim, instead of inserting the wire you fold it back and place the bottom in then pinch it over. That design can achieve water tightness I think but may also be a later design. With this pot I am attempting to keep all aspects sometime before the fiw.

 

[running horse]

I used a hard solder or braising rod for all joints, to allow them to withstand higher heat just in case, the original plan was to use the same silver solder to line the pot with allowing it to withstand higher heat without failing but it has so far proven to be very difficult to get the silver to flow properly so I will try tining the inside soon

 

[running horse]

I previously cut out the tabs to hold the bail on the side, wile I drilled holes to rivet and even when bending then to shape I found the copper the pot is made from is to thin for the ears. I have some copper sheet that was made from a large diameter copper pipe, annealed then a single cut lengthwise and flattened that is much thicker and though annealed still fairly stiff. One may also be able to use a copper coupler purchased from the local hardware store.

 

[nhmoose]

This guy makes it look easy... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abMsu4BdjB8[/quote]
Great video!!!! :hatsoff: