Correct Trigger Pull Length?

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wtilenw

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What is the correct method for determining your personal trigger pull length?
Idaho PRB
:hmm:
 
Trigger pull on the Long arm is measured from the center of the butt to center of the trigger.The shooters length of pull is measured from the antecubital(inside bend of arm)to bent trigger finger(palm side).The arm is bent @ 90 degree angle.A quick hands on guess is to put finger on trigger and lay butt on inside bent forarm the butt should touch the bicep tenden(snugg in the bend of arm).I use tape measure for stock and stiff yard stick for shooter.Stock drop and comb drop are a different story. :)
 
Most people are well served with 13 1/2".

Most stocks are too long for fast shooting.
 
I agree with Swampman. Shorter is easier to shoot than too long. I just cut off a full stock (Green River parts) Hawken 1 1/4" down to about 13.5". Cut my Green River Leman off twice and its still too long.
 
Its personal preference. Honest opinion there shouldn't be a set rule, because of the different shooting styles. I will agree with Mike that most people like a 14" trigger pull. Personally I like anywhere from a 13" to 13 1/2" pull.
 
You might want to consider a couple of things after you determine your pull using the "arm adjacent to the elbow to bent index finger".

Things that come to mind are How is the gun going to be used?
If it is short sleeve style target shooting, the above method works pretty well, but, if it is for deer hunting while bundled in a heavy coat and with heavy gloves on, reducing the "pull" an inch less than the measured distance can be a good thing.

Another consideration is the type and length of the barrel.
If it is a straight octagon barrel, 42 inches (or more) long, it will be quite muzzle heavy.
Shorter pull lengths put the weight closer to your body so it won't feel quite so muzzle heavy.

Longer pulls put some shooters more at ease when shooting a Flintlock. Seems some folks don't like the pan flash real close to their bushy beard. :grin:
Seriously, some people don't really like the "blast" they can feel with their faces when the pan flashes.
:)
 
The elbow to finger rule is decent as a general guidline, but not engraved in stone anywhere that I know of. I just ordered a stock with 15 1/4 lop. I'm a bit over average size at 6'1" and sort of long arms. 75 inches finger tip to tip.
I have a hawken with 15 inch lop and a lancaster with 15 1/2 and wanted something in the middle. I may shorten the lancaster a bit.

Its a whole lot easier to shorten it that it is to make it longer, so you might want to give it a bit extra to start with.
 
I am new to muzzleloading, but I think the triggerguard shape and location plays a big part.

I shot a flinter with 14" LOP, and it felt great. I then built a Vincent/Hawken hybrid at 14" also.

The triggerguard was a very "spikey" and skinny Ohio style. It takes some wrist and forearm tweaking to get my fingers in the right place on the guard without discomfort. If I would have made it shorter, even by 1/2", it would be more comfortable. It is fine, but now I check beforehand.

On my new trans rifle, I taped the guard on the rough shaped wrist before I soldered on the crosspin tower, and would be fine even if I went 14.5"!

Anyhow, for me, the triggerguard will now always be included in my LOP calculations. :hmm:
 
While this measurement is important, it is usually more geared to wing shooting and shotguns. With a rifle you usually have enough time to sort of adjust yourself to the gun, in most instances. 13 1/2" is about standard. If you shoot in a prone position you sort of creep up on the gun which can be a factor.
 
Seriously, some people don't really like the "blast" they can feel with their faces when the pan flashes.

That was a consideration for me. I went with 14-1/4" on my flinter, but then I'm 6'3" and have a 75" wing-span. I measure 14-3/4" with the shirt-sleeved, bent arm & finger trick, so I backed of 1/2" below that. Measure with a coat on if you usually shoot with a coat on. It's also the L.O.P. of my favorite shotgun. Find a gun that's comfy to you and measure that.
 
Another thing too, the LOP on my Hawken and slender butted rifles is 14 1/2". This same LOP is too long when I went to build the Rev. War fat butted rifles. I had to go with a 14" LOP on the earlier rifles on account of the wider buttplates of 2" or more.
 
My finger to inside the arm measure is 16". I can't shoot a gun with a 16" pull. :shake: I can shoot a gun with a pull anywhere from about 12 1/2" to about 14 1/4" . I'm most comfortable with a pull from 13 3/4 to 14" I'm 5'11" tall.
I never use that measurement to fit a guy that I'm building a gun for. :shake:
 
It's a mistake to make a gun with too long a pull. Anyone can mount and shoot a short pull gun. I have one witha 12" pull I made for my wife and son (when he was little) and I can shoot it, but it busts my nose a little. On the other hand a gun with too long a pull cannot be mounted or shot- my wife cannot shoulder a gun with a 14" pull. There is very little reason to "go long". I did it once and will not do it again, as the gun I "custom fitted" for myself is great when I am target shooting and have time, but not quick in the woods at all.
 
Most of my rifles tend to halve LOP of 13.5 inches. If I used the crook of arm measurement I "should" use a 12.5" LOP. This cramps me up too much and really palces my trigger hand thimb almost against my face. I have one rifle with this length of pull but it is in .45 and works fine. I would not build a rifle this short on larger calibers.
 
In considering length of pull for the individual shooter other factors come into play.The distance of the heel and comb height must be considered along with cheek placement.No neck footballer vs. Ickobob crane body build goose neck for example.One of my instructors @ PCC gunsmithing school kept measurements (he had collected for years) of popular centerfire gunstocks.This was helpful in making custom replacements and query the potential customer for[url] fit.In[/url] the end with the properly fitted firearm the shooter should be able to shoulder the weapon ,aim and swing the firearm with the body without readjustment of the shooters line of sight.Also without the Firearm leaving contact with the shooters body.This is why on Bond St. H&H takes taylor like measurements.Consideration of clothing the hunter would wear is also noted and sight usage.Bead,Ironsight or Optical site(and if optical the mount height):winking:
 
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I've only made two guns that didn't fit the customer in 25 years. I do it mostly by eye and watching the person shoulder guns. If I can't see the person in person, I have them describe themselves to me and tell me what guns they have that fit them.
I find women especilally hard to fit a gun to. Of course, I never have been able to figure out anything about women...... :shake:
Drop in the heal and comb makes a big difference as does the trigger guard style. Guns with the trigger guard rail that stands way out from the stock makes the pull feel longer.
There's also a big difference in fiting bird guns and rifles. It also makes a difference what the person was taught to shoot, rifle or shotgun.
Many people can pick up and shoot and feel comfortable with just about any configuration.
 
I think any gun with a front and back sight is easiest to fit to a person because they can fit themselves to the gun unless it is way off. At that point length of pull becomes important.

With a shotgun things are different. Length of pull is probably the least important factor (unless WAY off). Cast, drop at comb, toe, heel and all those measurements become critical when the shooter's eye becomes the rear sight.
Most people dont have enough of a developed form in their gun mount to have a gun fitted to them like that though.
 
You are right Mike,
women are very different to fit. You should see some of my temporary fixes at the clays range so ladies can shoot their husband's "little 20 guage" factory gun!
If there were adjustable combs and butts in the 18th century I could go in business :rotf:
 

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