Cracked Ramrod

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horsesoldier03

36 Cal.
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I cracked a ramrod today while loading my rifle. I have already put wood glue on it to repair it for a temporary fix. Does anyone know how you can treat a ramrod to make it a little more flexible so that it doesnt crack while it bends inside the barrel as your pushing a ball down the barrel? It seems like I have heard that you can soak it in a type of oil that will make the rod more flexible and it will not crack as easily. I plan to find me a new dall rod that is Oak or Hickory to make the new one, but I am intrested in hearing ideas.
 
That's what I have been told over the years. Kerosene or Diesel. I have never tried either one but one old friend of mine swore by the Kerosene. He had a capped pipe full of kerosene and had ramrods soaking in there for months.
 
I have tried soaking ramrods in kerosene for a couple of months. Seems to work. At least I don't break them as often as I used to. Also, I don't mark my ramrod with a knife anymore to show the full load depth. Can't tell you how many ramrods broke right at the mark line.

I took a length of galvanized pipe and threaded a cap on one end. Doesn't take much kerosene if you drop in a couple of rods at once.

Many Klatch
 
I would be very careful about wooden Ram Rods. Mine split while loading my 45 cal and went through my little finger. I was very lucky.
I use wooden ram rods for display only. Brass or plastic for loading now for me.
 
I have done a google search and found several articles on making wood pliable. One talked about the indians using animal fat and heating arrows over fire. The other was an article on making a Harry Potter wand pliable and suggested using mineral oil. Wasnt expecting Harry Potter to be part of the equasion, but I think mineral oil might be a good idea. Diesel and Karosene may work, but have a pungent odor that I really dont care to take hunting with me. Thanks for the ideas, I will make sure to follow up once I am successful at making a somewhat limber but strong ramrod.
 
If you make a ramrod use hickory and split the wood for the blank as the grain will not run out on the rod and be prone to fracture.
Good Luck,
BPWRL
 
PIck a piece of hickory that does not have grain running out one side. That is how you avoid splitting wooden ramrods. The next thing is how you use the rod. DO NOT grab the rod by the end and try to shove it down the barrel with one big mighty stroke. That is how you bend the rod and break it on the muzzle. You can pull the rod out of the barrel holding it on the end, of course, but when you put something down the barrel with a rod, do a hand over hand maneauver, never letting more than a couple of inches to exist between your hands, so that you don't have either hand too far from the muzzle as you run the ball home. Same with using a cleaning patch to clean the barrel. Run it down hand over hand, and not in one shove. Even straight grained rods have broken with that kind of abuse.

Oh, tuck your thumb out of the way, and grab the rod with only your fingers when loading a PRB down on a load of powder. If you didn't clean the barrel before putting the next powder charge down it, there is always a possibility that a spark is smoldering down in the barrel and will light off the powder when you push air down the barrel in front of that PRB. If that happens, the rod is going to be fired out of your hand. If you wrap your thumb around the rod, you stand a good chance of having the thumb janked off by the ramrod tip, or jag as it goes through your hand.

If you use only your fingers to hold the rod, and turn you hands so that the palms are outward, thumbs down, Your body's natural reaction to any pain caused by the rod moving violently through your fingers will be to open the fingers and let the rod go. You may have friction burns, but you will keep the fingers.
 
Some guys use kerosene. I have had good luck soaking mine in mineral oil. Let em sit in the oil for a good couple of weeks or more, never had a problem. But like the one fella says you have to use it in a correct manner.
 
When you soak the ramrod in Kerosene or mineral oil or coal oil, do you then take it out and let it dry before you take it to the field to shoot/hunt with? I would imagine you would have to do something like that or have a mess on your hands. What about smell?
 
Horsesolider03:

I used to have the wooden rods, but I saw a guy *** a factured rod all the way through his hand and then another pull the end off leaving the jag in his barrel.

Needless to say, it sorta ruined the day for both of them.

At that same Rendezvous several years ago in Missouri there was a trader who was selling rather rigid blank copolymer or polypropylene ramrods.

Now I realize they aren't traditional, but that was the end of wooden ramrods for me.

Osage
 
Been using one of the fiberglass CVA jobs at the range for patching and when things get tight. Wooden ramrod for easy loading and in the field.
 
My dad got me a "range rod" at the suggestion of one of is buddies when I first got my rifle. I was told it's carbon fiber, but T/C only offers tubular aluminum, solid aluminum, or fiberglass rods so I don't know for sure. It is all I use for active shooting. Especially if you read my earlier post on the rifle board about how I have difficulty loading. I don't want to have to pull my rod out of my hand.

I have done a lot with archery as well and one of the things I learned there was don't use a cracked arrow. It could possibly splinter upon release of the string or snag your hand if you aren't using a modern rest. I would not use that cracked rod even if you wrapped it. It's safer just to wait a few days for a new one to come in the mail or run out to a sporting goods store and buy a new one. Or if you are so inclined, make a new one.

I am keeping my wood rod in case I ever retire that rifle and hang it on the wall, but that's the only use it will have.
 
IMHO, if the ramrod cracked while loading, one of three things happened or 2 of the three.

1: The ramrod had faulty grain structure to begin with. (Runout)


2: You were abusing it and possibly + #1.

3: Improper loading tecxhnique. You had your hand too far up the rod from the muzzle pushing the ball down. I try to keep my hand not over 6" from the muzzle when loading. Push 6", slip up do same again, etc. I have seen guys try to load with 2 pushes of a RR & that is a dead sure way of breaking one.

Another good way of breaking one is to cut a mark in the rod for reference. It is like scribing glass, it will break at the scribe.

Basically, if the grain is straight & has no runout, the rod will last for ALLOT of years ? I have some over 30 years old & still using them & no problems.

IMHO, soaking them in coal oilor kerosene is a old wives tale that someone started back in the late 60's or early 70's. I tried it in the late 70's and could tell no dif in a good straight grained hickory unsoaked on compared to a soaked one. Well, other than the soaked one smelled like kerosene for the next 10 years & ya couldn;'t stain the dang thing or put a finish on it ! ha ha !

And now & then ya hear someone say "Back in the ol days........ " Well, kerosene (coal oil) was not abundant I guess one could say, til the early 1900's. Oh it was developed in ? 1855 and in production in 1880 or so, but far to precious & expensive to waste on a ramrod. Then ya have WWI, then WWII........ Personally I think it is all total B.S., but we all know how opinions are....

HOWEVER, if ya just have to soak yer rod........ in this instant this may be the cheapest one ya ever soak !! Go to the hardware & get a 48" piece of 1.5" PVC pipe, glue a cap on one end, put a RR in it, fill it with kerosene & slip a loose cap on the other in & try it for 30 days & see how ya like it. It is a cheap test & you will satisfy your rod soaking urges ? well...... maybe some of them anyway ? ha ha !

:thumbsup:
 
Looking back at what I think occured, the ramrod had slid forward about 3-4" past the end of the barrel and I fired a shot. I think the concussion probably jared the rod and the thimbels applied the stress. I know it wasnt cracked on the previous shot and then all of a sudden it was. I normally only slide my hand 3-4" at a time above the muzzle when pushing the ball home. (To prevent stess) I did glue it with wood glue and wrapped it tight with heavy string. Then I took it out and shot 25 rds again today and the ramrod held up.

Kind of shocked no one recommended soaking it in moose snot or stale urine! :rotf:
 
Birddog6 said:
IMHO, soaking them in coal oil or kerosene is a old wives tale that someone started back in the late 60's or early 70's. I tried it in the late 70's and could tell no dif in a good straight grained hickory unsoaked on compared to a soaked one. Well, other than the soaked one smelled like kerosene for the next 10 years & ya couldn;'t stain the dang thing or put a finish on it ! ha ha !

:thumbsup:

This technique is in Sam Fadala's :bow: book The Complete Blackpowder Handbook.
 
Just because someone puts it in a book, does not mean its a valid exercise. I do not understand how anyone thinks that kerosene or anything else liquid is going to penetrate the cells of a hickory tree, in life, or death. The cell walls are made to prevent that kind of foreign penetration. Now, if you use white oak, that has columns of cells and you not only can pass fluids through the cells, but also blow air through the strands. You can't do that with red oak, however. So, go ahead and soak the wood all you want. Its not a sponge. Its will stink for a long time, simply because their are pores in the wood, but not in the cells where the kerosene will go. If that hickory stick could absorb kerosene, then when you take it out of the soaking tube, kerosene should run out of the stick for at least 15 minutes. No?

Oh, I happen to like a lot of the things that Dr. Sam Fadala has written, and I bought his book, too. But, I also paid attention in Biology class in HS, and again in the Botany portion of my biology class in college. Even as smart as people like Sam are, they too can fall victim to passing on junk that simply does not work, simply because they were told that it does work, and they never sat down and actually studied the matter. It happens to the best of us. I have never read an article where Dr. Sam actually soaked a ramrod himself.

Checking ramrods for run out of grain is the easiest thing to do, and the best way to insure that the stick won't break down during use. I get queer looks from some vendors when they see me checking the hickory sticks they sell first for straightness, and then for grain run-out. Some realize I know what I am doing. Some haven't a clue what I am doing and would not know how to pick out a good piece of hickory for their own ramrods. The sticks they sell come in 48" lengths. Since they don't know how long a barrel you are working with, there is not reason not to try to sell rods that have run out at one end. For shooters who are shooting shorter barrels, they can cut off the bad end of the stick and have a servicable stick for the rest of their lives.
 
horsesoldier03 said:
Kind of shocked no one recommended soaking it in moose snot or stale urine! :rotf:

Give it time we'll get to the Stale Urine. :grin:

An interesting article from Muzzle Blast Online by R.D.Caswall under the subheading of Other little Tricks and Tools your ancestors used:

Muzzle Blast link.

Kerosene is a "modern" product, so if you want to temper your ramrod with a 1780 product, use 1/2 to 2/3 turpentine with the balance (1/2 to 1/3) of linseed oil. Soak for about a year. In either case, kerosene or linseed oil, keep the ramrod ends exposed to the liquid as 90% of the absorption of the "liquid" will be through the exposed ends via capillary action. It should be noted that some claim kerosene has a tendency to promote rot in wood. I have no idea how long this takes as I've never viewed it - five years, ten years, more? Enough said on tempering.

Just passing it on please don't shoot the messenger.
 
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