Mark Sluka
32 Cal.
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How would tru oil look on curly maple without useing any stain? Any one have any pics?
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curly maple
- Thread starter Mark Sluka
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You'll have a very blond stock with only slighty darker stipes..try wiping it with a damp rag and thats about what you'll end up with. That's why the old stockers "invented" stains and aqua fortis, to make those stripes JUMP out at you and to do something about that drab blondness...but, to each his own
John
John
if you want a more or less "natural finish on curly maple, the figure can be made to "pop" as you call it.
what brings the figure out is some color in what is essentially endgrain as the wavy grain turns up to meet the surface....i'm sure we all know this. but what allot people don't know is that just putting some stain on the surface doesn't do the best job of bringing out the beuty of cury woods.
as said, it does take some color, but it's the type of color and preperation of the surface that is the real secret.
first is that you dont want to fill this endgraid with sanding dust from over sanding or worse, sanding with used up dull sandpaper. keep your sandpaper fresh and clean, as soon as it feels like it's not cutting good get a fresh peace, i know it cost a little more, but the finnish will be well worth it. sanding with dull paper burnishes the open pore shut. you will think you have a smoother surface, but you actually lost probably half of the figure's "pop" right there.
next after each sanding you must actually vaccum the dust off of the stock otherwise, the next sanding will just push the sanding dust left on the surafe down into the pores. vacuming will pull the dust out of the poors, this is a very important, little known fact about figured maple,...those end grain pores have to be open for the figure to really pop. it is the transluscent, tinted finish that carries light down into the figure that gives the curl it "pop". remember whay i said it's important to not let that endgrain get plugged with sanding dust?
color....
stay away from any solid pigment stain, they kill the pop by plugging the pores with the solid material that contains the stain's color.
any of the wipe on finishes will take a tint, they are almost all tounge based and are essentially thin varnish so any oil-based stain or tint will mix with them just fine.
the trick is to tint he finish so that multiple applications accumulate color in the open curl end grain. the tint should be suble so that when put on the stock surface it doesn't look like there is any color in it. as the endgrain is open, it will soak up th finish and take on what ever color you tinted the finish with. it takes some experimenting to find the right amount of tint to add so that 3-4 coats of finish colors th figure good, without starting to change the color of the rest of the stock too much. it should be put on good and wet and rubbed into the curl so that it gets good and deep into the end graid, that's important. if done correctly the curly figure will take on an almost alive, character that seems like it follows you as you look past it.
by the way the term describes that shimmering almost alive-looking "pop" as it is called now-a-days, is actually " chatoyance" :thumbsup:
what brings the figure out is some color in what is essentially endgrain as the wavy grain turns up to meet the surface....i'm sure we all know this. but what allot people don't know is that just putting some stain on the surface doesn't do the best job of bringing out the beuty of cury woods.
as said, it does take some color, but it's the type of color and preperation of the surface that is the real secret.
first is that you dont want to fill this endgraid with sanding dust from over sanding or worse, sanding with used up dull sandpaper. keep your sandpaper fresh and clean, as soon as it feels like it's not cutting good get a fresh peace, i know it cost a little more, but the finnish will be well worth it. sanding with dull paper burnishes the open pore shut. you will think you have a smoother surface, but you actually lost probably half of the figure's "pop" right there.
next after each sanding you must actually vaccum the dust off of the stock otherwise, the next sanding will just push the sanding dust left on the surafe down into the pores. vacuming will pull the dust out of the poors, this is a very important, little known fact about figured maple,...those end grain pores have to be open for the figure to really pop. it is the transluscent, tinted finish that carries light down into the figure that gives the curl it "pop". remember whay i said it's important to not let that endgrain get plugged with sanding dust?
color....
stay away from any solid pigment stain, they kill the pop by plugging the pores with the solid material that contains the stain's color.
any of the wipe on finishes will take a tint, they are almost all tounge based and are essentially thin varnish so any oil-based stain or tint will mix with them just fine.
the trick is to tint he finish so that multiple applications accumulate color in the open curl end grain. the tint should be suble so that when put on the stock surface it doesn't look like there is any color in it. as the endgrain is open, it will soak up th finish and take on what ever color you tinted the finish with. it takes some experimenting to find the right amount of tint to add so that 3-4 coats of finish colors th figure good, without starting to change the color of the rest of the stock too much. it should be put on good and wet and rubbed into the curl so that it gets good and deep into the end graid, that's important. if done correctly the curly figure will take on an almost alive, character that seems like it follows you as you look past it.
by the way the term describes that shimmering almost alive-looking "pop" as it is called now-a-days, is actually " chatoyance" :thumbsup:
Stophel
75 Cal.
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Probably will look about like this pistol grip:
This is not tru oil, but dark rosin and linseed oil varnish. The grips are a bit more of a deeper golden brown now, since I have added a few top coats of the varnish since the photo was taken. The color that it is in the photo is probably the most that you could expect from Tru Oil, which simply does not have the deep brown color that boiled linseed oil and dark rosin have. :wink:
This is not tru oil, but dark rosin and linseed oil varnish. The grips are a bit more of a deeper golden brown now, since I have added a few top coats of the varnish since the photo was taken. The color that it is in the photo is probably the most that you could expect from Tru Oil, which simply does not have the deep brown color that boiled linseed oil and dark rosin have. :wink:
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