Cutting Patches at the Muzzle

[Bob J]

I thought it would be cool to cut at the muzzle (and a good excuse to have a little antler-tine patch knife made :winking. Having never cut at the muzzle, a couple of questions come to mind;

1. Short-start ball so that it is slightly deeper than flush with muzzle?

2. Does anyone pre-lube strips to carry rolled-up in shooting bag?

 

[outdoorman]

When I am shooting my .32 rifle, it is "yes" to questions 1 and 2.

I have found that if I don't short start the ball down the barrel, sometimes the cutting action on the patch material will pull the ball out of the barrel.

I carry lubed patching material in a film cannister. I just make sure the patch covers the opening in the end of the barrel, then I poke the ball down the barrel, and I cut the patch. On inspection of shot patches, I am getting a good seal.

Sometimes on a fast second shot on a squirrel (Hey, it happens!) I use the end of the handle of my patch knife to start the ball. Just be sure you are standing still doing this.

Good luck.
Outdoorman

 

[Bob Riegl]

As for your questions: I carry strips of patching in or on my bag----I do short start the ball and using a "sharp" patch knife I trim the material on the muzzle. I prefer to lube the patch material with bear grease just before I seat the ball on the patch material. I found that the grease got all over everything and that the gnats, mosquitoes & other little buzzy critters & assorted crap were attracted to the patch material. eace:

 

[No Deer]

I use the little nub on the short starter to seat the ball in the muzzle, it is just past flush, and then cut the patch flush with the muzzle. As for lubing, if I am target shooting on the line or woodswalk I spit patch (chew on the strip of patching material to get it wet). If I am out hunting I will pre lube the patches and load them in my bullet board. I prelube them for hunting because the spitpatch will tend to dry out if not shot for some time. :m2c:

 

[Halftail]

Nodeer,
You sure your not my clone?You stole my answer :winking:

I use the little nub on the short starter to seat the ball in the muzzle, it is just past flush, and then cut the patch flush with the muzzle. As for lubing, if I am target shooting on the line or woodswalk I spit patch (chew on the strip of patching material to get it wet). If I am out hunting I will pre lube the patches and load them in my bullet board. I prelube them for hunting because the spitpatch will tend to dry out if not shot for some time.

Yeah!What he said! :blah: ::

 

[No Deer]

Nodeer,
You sure your not my clone?You stole my answer

GMTA :front: :crackup:

(Great Minds Think Alike)for those of you that were going to ask :blah:

 

[Bob J]

Thanks, everyone, for clearing this up for me. I lubed a strip of pillow-ticking with Birddog6's Patch Grease, rolled 'er back up and put it in a film canister for storage in shootin' bag :front: Now, to get back out to the range...

 

even at the range i shoot from a loading block. that way i know my patch is cut the same every time. :results:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I'm with Jax12. I usually fill a couple ball blocks ahead of time, and when empty I lay out the components and refill them.

In events that call for loading from the pouch, I thumb start the ball (just below flush) and slice the patch strip.

I carry six feet of pre-lubed cotton tick in a waxed deerskin bag. (lower left).

 

[Cruzatte]

1. Short-start ball so that it is slightly deeper than flush with muzzle?

2. Does anyone pre-lube strips to carry rolled-up in shooting bag?

1. Yes. It works a little better.

2. Sometimes

Cruzatte

 

[cayugad]

I thought it would be cool to cut at the muzzle (and a good excuse to have a little antler-tine patch knife made :winking. Having never cut at the muzzle, a couple of questions come to mind;

1. Short-start ball so that it is slightly deeper than flush with muzzle?

2. Does anyone pre-lube strips to carry rolled-up in shooting bag?

Yes to both questions. Today I got out to my range and forgot my patch knife and scissors, so I used a jack knife. Worked fine all day..

 

2. Does anyone pre-lube strips to carry rolled-up in shooting bag?

Some hang the pre-lubed strip from their hunting bag strap, however there is a draw back, the lubed patching material will pick up dirt like a fly tape. (VBG)

 

[shmrck1]

Dixie Flinter,
As to your #1 question, that's the way i do
it. #2 i must say when i'm at the range i use pre-lubed
strips, usually lubed with moose snot the day before
shooting.
When hunting however i use pre-cut and
pre-lubed patches. In my case it is a bit faster and i
think i owe that to my pursuit. :m2c:
snake-eyes

 

I use microwave melted crisco soaked patches. Most of the time overlarge. I have found that as long as I center the patch it is a tack driver. Square or round, doesn't matter. If they are good and messy and you have a hand towell like a golfer you can shoot all day. I like shooting 75 - 100 YDS. No problem.

 

[buckknife]

I have strips rolled in a small tin soaked in rendered beef fat in my pouch and one hangen from my bag strap.I cut a patch off the strip and load the ball.I used to cut at the muzzle but have found that it just takes me longer to load.Cutting at the muzzle also requires more patch material be used so you can get a grip on it to cut it.
Its fast,easy and seems to be just as accurate as cutting at the muzzle IMHO :thumbsup:

 

[reddogge]

I short start and cut at the muzzle and use spit patches for target work.

I like Stumpkiller's little stuff bag for greased strips which I assume are stuffed into the bag like a little stuff bag and pulled out a little at a time.

 

[Stumpkiller]

. . . stuffed into the bag like a little stuff bag and pulled out a little at a time.

I roll it tight and then pull it out from the center of the roll.

 

[quigleysharps]

Out of curiosity...what's in the bottle? Figured some kinda cleaner with it sporting that skull and cross bones.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Moose Milk. :haha:

My variation with castor oil.

Stumpy's Moose Milk

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.

I have cleaned my rifles using nothing but this and a oiling with B.C. Sheath or Rem-Oil afterwards and it has proven to be a first class solvent/lube.

 

[quigleysharps]

Pretty good stuff.