CVA half ****

[snubnose57]

I just bought your common CVA .45 fullstock rifle.
The hammer will fall if I pull the trigger at half ****.
I pulled the lock, and all looks well inside.
Not sure what is up. Thanks in advance for all replies.

 

[Rogue River]

Pull the lock and put it on half ****. Now trip the trigger and watch what happens. Keep your thumb on the hammer so you don't smack your other hand when you trip it.

 

[necchi]

There's a screw in the tumbler of that lock. It sit's on the top of the tumbler and it adjusts how far the sear engages the tumbler.
Chances are that screw is turned down too far.

 

[necchi]

Nope, thought about that some more. That screw should not effect the half ****,
Could be the tumbler has a notch broke off.
I'll post a picture later for ya to compare to yours.

 

[hawkeye2]

It sounds like the notch in the tumbler is cut wrong. In half **** when you pull the trigger does the hammer try to go back and is the trigger pull stiff. If so you may have to reshape the half **** notch. Has somebody been in there trying to do a trigger job?

 

[rafterob]

Look closely at the tip of the sear. It is common for those cva's to break neatly off. It is hard to notice if not looking for it. If broken, It will hold at full **** but will not fit into the half **** notch. Happened to me on two locks. I used to pull the hammer past half **** after firing and then let it snap onto the half **** hold to eject the cap. That caused the sear to fracture and eventually snap off.Replacement parts at Deer Creek.

 

[yadkin]

I agree, most likely the problem, been there done that,

 

[snubnose57]

The rifle looks almost like new.
When at half-****, the hammer falls, but does not move back at all.
When I pulled the lock and put it at half ****, the hammer would not budge.
The sear is intack, and fits in the notch just fine.
I am thinking maybe I need to remove a little wood in the recess where the lock fits, will give that a try.

 

[necchi]

Good plan, those screws that hold the lock in do not need to be go-rilla tight either, :idunno:
Just enough to hold the lock in the mortice.

 

[ChrisPer]

Consider compression of the wood under the set trigger plate too. Mine has that. Does the half **** work if the lock is out of the rifle? And does it refuse full **** if the trigger not set?

 

[rafterob]

You may need to shim the trigger plate, it could be set too deep causing the trigger bar to interfere with the sear at 1/2 ****.

 

[snubnose57]

It does not have set triggers.
With the lock out, I cannot budge the hammer at half ****, it will not budge.
Shimming the trigger may be the answer, not sure the best way to do it.
Sorry for the late responses, been working too much lately.

 

[Rogue River]

To shim the trigger plate I use a couple small washers that will fit in the inlet, you don't even see them. Try one washer on each end and if that doesn't work use two on each end.

 

[silverfox]

snubnose the trigger plate on many CVA are to deep and you will need to shim it out. The washers will work just fine if you can find ones that fit. I have done the same thing with small flat headed screws. They don't get lost the next time you remove the trigger plate and they are infinitely adjustable. Just don't screw them all the way down until you check to see if that is your problem and that it will fix it.
Fox :hatsoff:

 

[snubnose57]

thanks, that sounds good.
I tried a washer, but the tange screw is a little too short, will have to find one just a little longer.

 

[huntinguy]

also, check the hole where the sear goes to the trigger. Some of mine the wood was in the way and had to be relieved. It wouldn't let the sear move into the half-**** notch.

Also, check to see if the trigger is floppy at full ****. Most of mine were. That would tell me it is not the trigger being in the way.

True, some folks did move the trigger plate up to stop the floppy and that did make some problems. I personally go with the add a spring crowd. It makes it like a two stage trigger then.

 

[rafterob]

If you have the single trigger you can file the trigger bar (the part that contacts the sear) down instead of trying to shim the trigger plate.Some even just file down the area that contacts the sear using a half round file.

 

[Philip Chua]

Old thread but this happened to mine here is a pic with it removed from the stock at “half ****”. It’s not engaged in the notch. My guess is that it’s binding. Now place the lock on half **** and it won’t go back into the inlet. So I’ll smoke it tomorrow and sort out where is binding and carve it off and report back