Hey guys and gals. Long time lurker but first time poster. I have a CVA hawken rifle that i just took on trade and somthing is up with the trigger/hammer. With the hammer down i was checking to see how sensitive the doible set was. It was perfect. No complaints. When i went to shoot it and the hammer was pulled back, i set the rear trigger and then started to touch the front trigger. The trigger clicked like it had engaged but the hammer remained in place. I fully squeezed the trigger and it finally disengaged the hammer. Its almost like it engaged the set trigger but the. Bypassed its existance all together. Like i said this only happens when the hammer is pulled back. When the hammer is down the triggers work perfectly. Any ideas on what could be the problem and what could fix the issue?
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CVA Hawken Trigger not working right
- Thread starter Jfoster
- Start date
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I thought my TC Hawken was doing that at first but I discovered if I put the least amount of resistance on the hammer is as to catch it before it fell, it would only click and stay in place. I placed a rag over the nipple and tried it and it works perfectly.
I thought that was the case here as well but its doing it when i go to fire. Not just when im putting some resistance on it. I can also notice that the hammer moves just a little bit when i engage the front trigger after setting the second one. It just doesnt fully disengage until i fully pull the front trigger.
don hepler
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Sounds like the set trigger arm, is touching the trigger arm on the lock. There are pretty close, and sometimes the wood on the trigger group, gets compressed, and doesn't allow for it to work correctly. The arm on the lock has to move slightly down, prior to dropping into full engagement, at the full **** notch. Try to shim the trigger plate down, away from the arm, and see if that's the problem. The way I check everything is with the lock out. If it functions properly, then I take the trigger out, and if it functions properly, then the trouble lies in the inletting, either in the lock, or trigger group.
Pull the triggers.
This requires removing the guard and a rear trigger screw and the tang bolt that goes through the stock to the front of the trigger plate it'self.
Then check the tension of the rear leaf spring and it's drop adjustment screw as shown here.
Ya gotta be kinda careful with that drop adjustment, if you turn it out too far the rear cam will be too high and not let the hammer to be cocked unless the triggers are set.
This requires removing the guard and a rear trigger screw and the tang bolt that goes through the stock to the front of the trigger plate it'self.
Then check the tension of the rear leaf spring and it's drop adjustment screw as shown here.
Ya gotta be kinda careful with that drop adjustment, if you turn it out too far the rear cam will be too high and not let the hammer to be cocked unless the triggers are set.
Also if that screw is set too far in, it will not allow the spring to depart enough force to trip the sear. Another problem I have encountered is the sear itself. Just last week I found one where the rifle had been dropped on the hammer while the lock was at half **** which bent the tip of the sear which required more force to release the tumbler. A new sear corrected the problem.
You may know all of this but I'll go thru it anyway for those who don't.
The lock has an arm that sticks out away from the lockplate at about 90 degrees. This is part of the sear that holds the lock at half or full ****. If it is moved upwards while the lock is cocked, the tumbler and hammer are released.
The front set trigger has a blade on top of it that rests right below the sear arm. Pulling the front trigger moves its blade up against the sear and pushes it further upward releasing the lock.
The front trigger also has a catch on it that holds the rear trigger in a cocked position.
The rear set trigger is just a spring loaded device with a blade on top of it like the front trigger.
When it is 'cocked' a spring is trying to push it upward but the catch on the front trigger has engaged its catch and is holding it in the cocked position.
Once set, when the front trigger is pulled, it releases the spring loaded rear trigger which slams forwards driving its blade into the sear arm. This should be enough to cause the sear to release the full **** notch causing the gun to fire.
Several things can keep this from happening.
If the rear triggers spring has been adjusted to reduce spring pressure, there might not be enough velocity given to the rear triggers blade to knock the sear out of the full **** notch.
The blade on the rear trigger might be hitting a small piece of wood as it flys upward. This can reduce or even prevent the rear triggers ability to hit the sear arm with enough force to release it.
The sear arm might be hitting the stocks wood making it hard to move.
In this case, this is unlikely because if the sear arm hits the wood, it usually won't allow the lock to be cocked.
Remove the lock and the set trigger and look for things that would keep the parts from moving as I've described above.
Have fun.
The lock has an arm that sticks out away from the lockplate at about 90 degrees. This is part of the sear that holds the lock at half or full ****. If it is moved upwards while the lock is cocked, the tumbler and hammer are released.
The front set trigger has a blade on top of it that rests right below the sear arm. Pulling the front trigger moves its blade up against the sear and pushes it further upward releasing the lock.
The front trigger also has a catch on it that holds the rear trigger in a cocked position.
The rear set trigger is just a spring loaded device with a blade on top of it like the front trigger.
When it is 'cocked' a spring is trying to push it upward but the catch on the front trigger has engaged its catch and is holding it in the cocked position.
Once set, when the front trigger is pulled, it releases the spring loaded rear trigger which slams forwards driving its blade into the sear arm. This should be enough to cause the sear to release the full **** notch causing the gun to fire.
Several things can keep this from happening.
If the rear triggers spring has been adjusted to reduce spring pressure, there might not be enough velocity given to the rear triggers blade to knock the sear out of the full **** notch.
The blade on the rear trigger might be hitting a small piece of wood as it flys upward. This can reduce or even prevent the rear triggers ability to hit the sear arm with enough force to release it.
The sear arm might be hitting the stocks wood making it hard to move.
In this case, this is unlikely because if the sear arm hits the wood, it usually won't allow the lock to be cocked.
Remove the lock and the set trigger and look for things that would keep the parts from moving as I've described above.
Have fun.
Thanks for all the info guys. Took the lock apart and the arm coming off the sear was bent forward and upward. Not really sure how that even happened. Bent it back to spec from pictures i found and were back in business. Works like a charm now.
any possibile way of getting a look at that front spring placement, having issues with mine after knocking off surface rust and rem oil. ThanksPull the triggers.
This requires removing the guard and a rear trigger screw and the tang bolt that goes through the stock to the front of the trigger plate it'self.
Then check the tension of the rear leaf spring and it's drop adjustment screw as shown here.
Ya gotta be kinda careful with that drop adjustment, if you turn it out too far the rear cam will be too high and not let the hammer to be cocked unless the triggers are set.
Wow, good find, that's an old thread for sure. There was a whole series of photo's an stuff posted back then.
I don't have anything current.
Here's a recent thread that has some trigger photo's to see, sadly the guy gave up before he could figure out the balance of all those settings.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/mountain-rifle-trigger-help.154015/
2014 huh? let me go look at all my saved pic's from back then,, might find something, if ya still got trouble PM,,
ElkStalker
40 Cal
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I had a used CVA Hawken for a bit. I had the same issue and discovered that the arm that comes off the sear on the lock is really weak. It bends upwards with use. I bent it back straight and made sure I had good engagement. Never had another problem with it. I don’t think that part got hardened like it should have.
ElkStalker
40 Cal
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Oh wow! After writing my response I realized this thread is 8 years old. Haha
Elk Stalker and Necchi BUCKETS OF GRATITUDE, 1000 THANK YOUS yes the thread is 8 years old, but it still serves old hounds like me whom have never removed the trigger`s for cleaning for the first time since I purchased and the new guys that got one and being wise pulled it apart for clean up prior to use and started having issues, 0700 or 7:00 A.M 11-15-22 I got it hammered out it boiled down to spring placement as well as using a screw driver to scrape out some excess wood left behind by previous owner. 0939 or 9:39 A.M 11-15-22 most fail to see these "OLD THREADS" can still serve, guide as well as help someone out Sear Arm Bent Upwards, Placement (the correct way) Was not catching that lip (see upwards bend) a little stock cleaning. I was so relieved and on the way to happiness
Elk Stalker and Necchi BUCKETS OF GRATITUDE, 1000 THANK YOUS yes the thread is 8 years old, but it still serves old hounds like me whom have never removed the trigger`s for cleaning for the first time since I purchased and the new guys that got one and being wise pulled it apart for clean up prior to use and started having issues, 0700 or 7:00 A.M 11-15-22 I got it hammered out it boiled down to spring placement as well as using a screw driver to scrape out some excess wood left behind by previous owner. 0939 or 9:39 A.M 11-15-22 most fail to see these "OLD THREADS" can still serve, guide as well as help someone out Sear Arm Bent Upwards, Placement (the correct way) Was not catching that lip (see upwards bend) a little stock cleaning. I was so relieved and on the way to happiness
as my first percussion rifle 2010 I have taken it all apart in 2010, as I am laid up after surgery I figured a complete cleaning from crown to butt plate would occupy sometime after knocking off surface rust , oil here there, that front sear arm giving me fits, I realize only one orientation it could go in was not hanging on that lip as should turns out bent, excess wood shaving here there in stock, I got it well working now
ElkStalker
40 Cal
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Glad you got it working there!
