CVA Kentucky Percussion To Flintlock On With The Show!

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
7,224
Reaction score
10,667
Location
Summerville, SC
Well, the lock showed up from Deer Creek, and it fit perfectly! I got the bolt as suggested, and fit it to the rather large vent. I just have to get the vent drilled and finish it up!

P1010019.jpg

P1010020.jpg

P1010021.jpg

P1010022-1.jpg

P1010023-1.jpg

P1010025.jpg

P1010026.jpg

P1010029.jpg


What is the ideal location for the vent hole? Most of my flintlocks have the vent hole a little above the pan. Wouldn't ignition be better if touch holes were directly across?
 
I have to ask what's up with the rust? Are you refinishing the barrel?

IMO the touch hole should be center of the pan and slightly above the bottom, maybe 1/16 of an inch.

Looks like a fun project. Have fun shooting it!

HD
 
I want the vent hole located .030 above the line level with the top of the pan. Heat rises. You want to put powder under the vent, and next to the barrel, for fastest ignition, according to Pletch's study.
 
IMO, the best location for the vent would be flush with the top of the pan or slightly above that.
Pauls figure of .030 (1/32 inch) sounds about right.

My reason for saying this is with the hole in this location, the pan cover (frizzen) will cover the hole (or most of it) when it is closed.
This will keep most if not all of the powder in the pan from ever covering the opening if the gun is rotated so that the pan is higher than the touch hole while carrying the gun.

As Paul noted it allows the prime to be right up against the side flat on the barrel without covering the hole.

As for heat rising, in my opinion that has very little to do with things.
When the prime ignites, the flash literally explodes in all directions in that first few thousandths of a second and it couldn't give a hoot about air density of hot gasses or the effects of gravity causing hot air to rise.

Because the explosion of the priming powder goes in all directions about half of it is directed downward towards the pan.
As with any high pressure flame front traveling at high speed its downward energy is reflected or bounced upward off of the pan with some of it going towards the vent.

At least that's my theory. :grin:
 
I just look at a candle flame, and note the column of air inside the flame. I recall a science teacher putting a stick match quickly into that hollow cone of air, and the head of the match did NOT light, while the stick, touched by the flames rushing around the outside of the hollow cone, did light.

I do think Jim is right that when ignition first occurs, the flame explodes in all directions, and the bottom of the frizzen is the only " restriction" as to the direction of travel of that flame. Because of the angle of the frizzen to the pan, there is some reflection of the heat and flame back towards the pan. The presence of the flint and jaws near the flash pan impede the movement of the flame back towards the action, so that there are only two ways for the flame to spread, and that is out, away from the barrel, and towards the vent in the barrel. Fire requires fuel, OXYGEN and heat. The burning flashpowder is both the fuel and the heat. The oxygen is partially provided by the chemistry of the powder itself, but the fire EATS the oxygen in the air around the powder, too. The "free air " inside the vent hole helps to draw the heat into the barrel, where it ignites the powder in the barrel.

All this happens in milliseconds- almost too fast to see. Larry Pletcher has done us all a terrific service by using High speed cameras to take pictures of the firing of these locks. He is the one who has shown conclusively that putting the powder next to the barrel, and under the vent hole produces the fastest ignition.

If you happen to have a lock where the vent hole is low, in the pan, you have no choice but to bank the flash powder away from the vent, but keep it as near as possible to speed the ignition. Its really not that difficult to learn how much powder to put in such a pan, and bank it towards the outside, so that only a small amount of powder is located near the vent hole, while the rest of the pan has increasingly more powder available to ignite. :thumbsup:
 
Huntin Dawg said:
I have to ask what's up with the rust? Are you refinishing the barrel?

IMO the touch hole should be center of the pan and slightly above the bottom, maybe 1/16 of an inch.

Looks like a fun project. Have fun shooting it!

HD


I was naturally browning the barrel. I left this barrel outside under my porch for over a year. I am going to further age this gun.
 
Mule Brain said:
I was naturally browning the barrel. I left this barrel outside under my porch for over a year. I am going to further age this gun.

:thumbsup:

HD
 
Did you fit that bolt like the part of the previous drum so it extends through the barrel, or does it just go into the side like a vent liner? If you didn't do the first method then you will have an odd shaped breach area so make sure it is cleaned and dried well. On a rifle I reworked, I cut off that shaft at a point it would span the rifling inside the barrel and threaded it back in. Then I butted the liner flush up against it. That way I somewhat mimicked the original design.
 
Mule Brain you may have said and I missed it. How much is a lock from Deer Creek? Reckon they have another? Thanks Larry Wv
 
Looks good. Thats how I've done mine and they work out rather well. Kinda a pain to have to build the vent liner, but not enough to keep one from making the conversion. Them jap bolts work just dandy.
 
larry wv said:
Mule Brain you may have said and I missed it. How much is a lock from Deer Creek? Reckon they have another? Thanks Larry Wv

55.00 for the lock assembly!

I could not find any wheel lug bolts in stainless, I guess the steel plated bolt will do!

MB
 
You could back bore the bolt so some of your load powder will be closer to the outside of the liner. I always counter sink a little on the outside of the touch hole to aide in guiding the flash into the bore. Your touch hole should be at least .068. :2
Dusty :wink:
 
Guess the Hawken locks are 85.00 from Deer Creek. I ordered one a few days ago. Larry Wv
 
The lock. look at his photo's. It's a fine thread and usually a snug enough fit with any vent to preclude movement :wink:
 
Back
Top