CVA Kentucky pistol

[trent/OH]

I bought one of these at a gun show today. I think it was a kit because it is in-the-white, the rear site isn't filed out, and the nosecap doesn't touch any wood at all. It appears to be unfired.
The trigger pull is about 10 pounds, so that needs to be corrected. There's a small adjustment screw in what I think is called the tumbler. Is that something I could do with no gunsmithing skills, or is it better that I contact a ML gunsmith?
Lastly, what powder charge is a good starting load in this 45 caliber, and how accurate can I expect this pistol to be?

 

[Toomuch_36]

If it behaves anything like the the ones I have had, your charge will probably range in the 15 to 25 grain range. You will probably end up using a .440 ball and .015 to .017 patch.
The sear adjustment screw's primary function is to adjust for tigger travel. But if it is currently backed all the way out allowing the sear to sit at the very bottom of the knotch it will also make a very heavy trigger pull. Adjust the screw out so that the sear will sit at or near the edge of the knotch (making sure you still have full contact with the entire contact surface of the sear tip on the tumbler knotch). This should allow a pull weight of about 3#. If this does not correct the problem the bevel on the sear face will have to be stoned to "marry up" with the surface of the full cock knotch.
Once you get the trigger problem corrected and get a good load worked up this will be a quite accurate pistol.

Toomuch
............
Shoot Flint

 

[Bill Bryan]

If it's anything like the one I built as a teenager(and still have), it will take a .440 cal round ball and a thick(denim or pillow ticking) patch. 15 grains of 3F is a good start. Make sure the vent is at least 1/16" or even a little larger. It will probably shoot 6" high at 25 yards.

Good luck

 

[trent/OH]

It's a percussion, but if I can convert it to flint, that'd be outstanding. How hard is it to find the appropriate parts?

 

[Zonie]

IMO, converting it is not an easy job.
First finding a flint lock for it is almost impossible.
After you've found the lock, you have to remove the nipple drum that is screwed into the barrel. While this is fairly easy to do, finding a touch hole vent plug to fill up the threaded hole where the drum was is also very difficult.
The threads in the barrel will be metric and to the best of my knowledge, there are't any threaded vents commercially available with metric threads as large as the drums threads were.

If you adjust the little screw in the tumbler to keep the sear from engaging the full cock notch deeply, pay heed to Toomuch-36's warning. The nose of the sear must be fully engaged with the notch in the tumbler or the gun will be very unsafe.

Zonie

 

[jdixon]

If you are feeling froggy enough, you could try replacing the simple lever trigger that is standard on these guns, with a single set trigger. I have done this recently with a Pedersoli Kentucky pistol that I have. With a little tuning of the lock and adjustment of the trigger, I now have hammer drop at a consistent 1.5 pound trigger pull.

 

[Toomuch_36]

It's a percussion, but if I can convert it to flint, that'd be outstanding. How hard is it to find the appropriate parts?

This is not terribly difficult if you have reasonably good machineing skills. Please to see my post #289672 & #289690 in the flintlock section under CVA flintlock Squirrel rifle. The lock will be the same lock used in the Kentucky rifle.

Toomuch
...........
Shoot Flint

 

I've had a couple of these pistols. One I built from a kit and the other I acquired in some ancient trade. Neither grace my gun safe today. Having said that, I always like CVA's and my oldest son still shoots a 50 cal. Mountain Rifle I built from a kit some eon's ago. It's still as accurate, offhand, as most other rifles he and I own.

I shot a bit more stout load than has been listed. Usually from 25 to 40 grains with 40 being my normal load. The heavier load just shot better for me. A .440 ball and a 15-18 thou. patch constituted the remainder of the load. I always found the pistols to be as accurate as any of my good revolvers, smokeless or black, and more accurate than any semi-auto I owned.....but I don't own many and none are accurized.

I also thought they looked "clubby" and that's the only reason I no longer own either.

I can't tell you a thing about converting from percussion to flint but anything is possible if you're willing to pay for it. Seems to me that would be money better spent acquiring a quality flint pistol in the first place. I dinked around for a year until I finally bit the bullet and bought a good one and I am more than grateful I waited and spent the money. Appearance, accuracy, quality, good trigger and a very, very, very fast ignition....what's left in a flint pistol?

Vic

 

[sequoia]

If you are feeling froggy enough, you could try replacing the simple lever trigger that is standard on these guns, with a single set trigger. I have done this recently with a Pedersoli Kentucky pistol that I have

What trigger did you use? I was thinking of doing this with my Pedersoli.

 

[jdixon]

I first went with an L&R trigger - see -[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com...=14&subId=156&styleId=708&partNum=TR-LR-SST-C[/url]
Once I got it inletted I didn't care for it. The spring was very hard to set by pushing the trigger forward and there was a lot of play in the trigger from side to side. I also found that I could not adjust the trigger pull on this one to my satisfaction. It now sits in the spare parts drawer. :shake:

Track's single set trigger is what I ended up going with - see -[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com...=14&subId=156&styleId=708&partNum=TR-LR-SST-C[/url]

I had shape the trigger mechanism a bit to get it to fit. It is in the gun now, working fine. Live and learn I guess.

 

OK gentlemen, this is a CVA KY kit pistol!

L&R triggers are more expensive than the gun.

TOTW triggers are worth more than the total parts value of the gun.

The RPL flint replacement lock is worth more than the total value of the gun.

The wood to metal fit has huge gaps. Ther rear sight dovetail does not exist. The brass to wood fit is terrible. The nose cap is held to the end of the barrel with a phillips head screw. The ramrod is probably too short to reach the breechface. (yep, I've owned a couple of these)

Just file the dovetail for the sight, install it and enjoy shooting. 36's lock advice will have your pull working better. The above loads the other fellows listed should be safe and work fine.

This one is a sow's ear, not a silk purse, but there's nothing wrong with having a good sow around the farm.

 

[flintlockmdj]

If the wood to metal fit bothers you too much, go to an art supply store and buy a snall tube of tempra paint to match the color of the stock (it will look like oil paint) and to the hardware store and buy some 30 minit epoxy. Use petroleum jelly as a release agent on the metal. Mix the epoxy and a small amount of the paint and bed the parts. This will fill in gaps and give a firm fit.

 

[Bill Bryan]

Sorry, I've been out of town for a while. Parts have never been a problem. The few times I've needed anything I've been able to order them from Dixie Gun Works.