CVA Kentucky trigger

[Gcs71]

Just acquired my first CVA rifle. It is a flintlock and looks to be nearly new condition. however, the trigger is very sloppy. Flopping around side to side as well forward and backward full **** or not. Is this normal for CVA or is there something missing in the trigger mechanism? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Phil Coffins]

Normal. It’s a budget gun.

 

[Tumbledown]

Normal. No different than that on a Winchester Model 94.

 

[Gcs71]

Loos like a couple,of very small spacing washers may at least help the side to,side. Looks like there is just a little pin holding the trigger on

 

[Gcs71]

Normal. No different than that on a Winchester Model 94.

This trigger is far worse than any Winchester 94 I have owned

 

[longcruise]

It's the way of all those cva and traditions Kentucky rifles. If it bothers you you could probably fit a very light spring inside.

 

[Gcs71]

Thanks everyone. I feel a little better knowing it’s common.

 

[Tim_IA]

Very normal. I do have a CVA 50 pistol though that has an interesting factory spring. Doesn't stop the flop completely, but mostly. Might give someone ideas if you can fabricate one.

 

[Gcs71]

I took this apart and discovered the hole passing through the trigger is oversized in relation to the size of the retaining pin. I have a small diameter stainless steel rod that should work For a new pin. Won’t help the front to back slop but should tighten up the side to side.

 

[awreis]

I took a cheap drill just slightly bigger than the factory hole and drilled it out. Then I cut a new pin from the solid end of the same drill bit to replace the old pin. Took most of the side to side wiggle out for me

 

[Gcs71]

I took a cheap drill just slightly bigger than the factory hole and drilled it out. Then I cut a new pin from the solid end of the same drill bit to replace the old pin. Took most of the side to side wiggle out for me

Just finished doing that! Worked great so far. Trigger pull a little heavier now but I’m sure the brass will loosen up quickly

 

[awreis]

Just finished doing that! Worked great so far. Trigger pull a little heavier now but I’m sure the brass will loosen up quickly

You could also try taking the lock appart and polishing all of the surfaces. That helped mine a lot with the trigger pull. I'm pretty satisfied with mine how it is now. I wouldn't want it any easier with being a single trigger.

 

[Gcs71]

Mostly being teenage boys shooting this, so the heavier trigger may be better/safer.

 

[awreis]

Mostly being teenage boys shooting this, so the heavier trigger may be better/safer.

Does your flint hit the frizzen at half ****?

 

[Gcs71]

Does your flint hit the frizzen at half ****?

Haven’t put a flint in it yet. Will do that this afternoon and report back. I would think that it shouldn’t contact frozen at half **** correct? What are the standard processes for,selecting correct flint and placement. Didn’t realize how much I didn’t know.

 

[awreis]

It's not supposed to hit but mine does. I use a leather frizzen cover as a "safety" for my rifle since I can't have it at half **** when the frizzen is closed.

As for flint selection, I am in now way an expert. I would
Refer you to youtube. There are several good videos on there. One channel that has helped me a lot is Black Powder TV. He has a series called New Shooters Series that explains everything from flint orientation to patch material and lubes. Also, black powder maniac and I Love Muzzleloading are a couple other channels i like.

 

[Winterhawk]

The flint should be 1/16" or so away from the face of the frizzen. You may need to cut a hole in the leather to it can push back around the screw. Some folks advocate nibbling a notch out of the back of the flint to clear the screw also. Having the bevel up will move the cutting edge of the flint down a little and provide some clearance compared with bevel down. CVA should use a 5/8" flint, for what it's worth. That's the width, and you will probably want to select some which are as long.

For the trigger slop, you can solder (or use JB Weld) a piece of steel on top of it to bring it closer to the seer bar, or inlet the trigger plate deeper into the stock to lessen the clearance between the two.
Hope that helps!

~Kees~

 

[Gcs71]

The flint should be 1/16" or so away from the face of the frizzen. You may need to cut a hole in the leather to it can push back around the screw. Some folks advocate nibbling a notch out of the back of the flint to clear the screw also. Having the bevel up will move the cutting edge of the flint down a little and provide some clearance compared with bevel down. CVA should use a 5/8" flint, for what it's worth. That's the width, and you will probably want to select some which are as long.

For the trigger slop, you can solder (or use JB Weld) a piece of steel on top of it to bring it closer to the seer bar, or inlet the trigger plate deeper into the stock to lessen the clearance between the two.
Hope that helps!

~Kees~

Thanks and it does help!