This is a perfect way to explain the problem -- the picture shows the problem area ALSO once you adjust the little screw put a drop of something to lock it into position. I have seen this screw work it's way back out which then allows the spring to apply more pressure to the lock sear.necchi said:Ok, it's about the rear cam, the leaf spring tension dictates how high the cam rides while un-set.
However with the CVA triggers there's another screw on the bottom;
The bottom screw adjusts how far the leaf spring travels,,
So there three adjustments on the trigger itself, the leaf spring tension, leaf spring travel and the set distance of the rear trigger engagement.
It's all a balancing act,,
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CVA Mountain Rifle Lock Problem.
- Thread starter BigSkyRambler
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IMO, adjusting these screws is a good thing but even after adjusting them, the rear trigger needs to be checked to make sure it has a slight amount of movement when it is in the unset condition.
It should NEVER feel like it is pushing against the lock sear arm when the lock is in the fully cocked or the half cocked position.
If it has a small amount of movement when it is unset and the lock is in the half-**** or full **** position, all is well.
It should NEVER feel like it is pushing against the lock sear arm when the lock is in the fully cocked or the half cocked position.
If it has a small amount of movement when it is unset and the lock is in the half-**** or full **** position, all is well.
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necchi said:Ok, it's about the rear cam, the leaf spring tension dictates how high the cam rides while un-set.
However with the CVA triggers there's another screw on the bottom;
The bottom screw adjusts how far the leaf spring travels,,
So there three adjustments on the trigger itself, the leaf spring tension, leaf spring travel and the set distance of the rear trigger engagement.
It's all a balancing act,,
Huh? Never knew this. Will give it a try before I start hacking away and building up surfaces. Thanks!
It's a tough adjustment Big,, the leaf spring has to have enough power to send the rear cam hard enough to trip the sear,,
But the cam doesn't have to ride so high it rub's on the sear arm.
But the cam doesn't have to ride so high it rub's on the sear arm.
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Got busy and never tried this. I shim, shim, shalabimmed everything with no effect, but jusy tightened this little screw and shazam! 
Took the shims out and it is all good now. Amazing what ignorance of a mechanism can make us do. It was starting to feel like an episode of "The Red Green Show" and I was about to get the duct tape out!
Took the shims out and it is all good now. Amazing what ignorance of a mechanism can make us do. It was starting to feel like an episode of "The Red Green Show" and I was about to get the duct tape out!
necchi said:Ok, it's about the rear cam, the leaf spring tension dictates how high the cam rides while un-set.
However with the CVA triggers there's another screw on the bottom;
The bottom screw adjusts how far the leaf spring travels,,
So there three adjustments on the trigger itself, the leaf spring tension, leaf spring travel and the set distance of the rear trigger engagement.
It's all a balancing act,,
A test to do after you fix the problem. Listen to the sounds of the clicks.
(1) Set the rear trigger.
(2) Slowly **** the hammer.
(3) Listen to a nice loud click when the sear enters the half **** notch and again at the full **** notch.
(4) Now **** the weapon without setting the rear trigger. The sounds should be the same. If they are "Dull" sounding, then the rear trigger bar is placing pressure on the sear.
You want the rear trigger bar (the one that kicks up) to not put any significant pressure on the sear.
(1) Set the rear trigger.
(2) Slowly **** the hammer.
(3) Listen to a nice loud click when the sear enters the half **** notch and again at the full **** notch.
(4) Now **** the weapon without setting the rear trigger. The sounds should be the same. If they are "Dull" sounding, then the rear trigger bar is placing pressure on the sear.
You want the rear trigger bar (the one that kicks up) to not put any significant pressure on the sear.
Gtrubicon
50 Cal.
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Deer Creek may have direct replacement locks in stock. I would recommend an L&R RPL lock, I put one in my rifle and it’s a very good lock. Nearly a direct replacement. Very minor fitting required.
@Grenadier1758 covered the problem(s) in #11. I had the same issues when I built mine (1977). A couple of business card shims got the depth right. They have been in there for over 40 years and almost 75 pounds of Goex. The sear arm on mine was too long. I filed some off rather than remove more wood in a weak area. Using shims was mentioned in the instruction manual that came with my kit, along with how to bend the hammer if it miss-hit the nipple, which I also had to do.
Good Luck. It will be a fine shooter when you get done. The CVA MR kit was my introduction to BP, and likely will always be my first pick for match or meat, even before my custom lovelies.
Good Luck. It will be a fine shooter when you get done. The CVA MR kit was my introduction to BP, and likely will always be my first pick for match or meat, even before my custom lovelies.
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I suggest you post your questions on a more recent thread, or create a thread of your own on the percussion rifle, gunbuilders bench, general muzzleloading, etc. sections.
A 7 year old thread has usually been beat to death and not a great place to start a new conversation, IMHO.
Btw, Deer Creek sells some NOS CVA parts.
