CVA SxS Kit Trigger Issue

[Shibbershabber]

Got this kit on the cheap ... And I know these things are bottom of the barrel... But this has me scratching my head.

One side won't fire,because the trigger is literally in its own way... I can't pull it back far enough to engage because it hits the top of the trigger guard assembly.

I saw on another forum a guy had the same kit/same problem... Never followed up to his post, so no idea if he sorted it out

You can,see in the pics that the rear trigger is pretty much resting against the plate, no way to pull it back

 

[Phil Coffins]

Expand your view of the issue, there’s more to consider. Is the sear bar depth and location correct, is the trigger plate fully inlet. The sear bars should be very close to each other and measure the distance from the surface of the wood to them. The trigger bars look plenty tall at this point.

 

[Larry Akers]

I agree with Phil, there's not enough info to give a definitive answer, but based on the info available here's what I would do. First determine at which tumbler position the sear arm is at its lowest point--probably half-cock. Place the lock in that position and inlet the triggers (without the return springs installed) until the top of the trigger blade is just short of touching the sear arm. Screw the trigger in position and see if the trigger will trip the sear from full cock. If there is still not enough trigger movement to trip the sear widen the "notch" in the trigger blade that is just above the trigger shoe. I would widen the notch at least 1/16 in. This will allow the trigger to drop lower at rest and increase the amount it can move up. Since the distance from the top of the trigger and the top of the trigger blade is still the same dimension, material needs to be added to the top of the trigger blade. This can be done by soldering or using a good epoxy like JB Weld. Add too much material and file down to the "just short of touching the sear arm" with the sear at it's lowest position. Now see if the trigger will trip the sear from full cock.

 

[ZUG]

Try only installing one trigger and fitting it to its corresponding sear then once that is working correctly do the second trigger then assemble both and check for function.

 

[Shibbershabber]

Even adding material to top of the blade wont make it since the trigger cant actually be pulled.

Maybe remove some from bottom of blade so the trigger sits lower, then add to the top?

 

[bubba.50]

Try taking some off the bottom of the blade so the trigger will drop down then figure out how much to add to the top to make it functional.

 

[rafterob]

The trigger bar in question is the middle, angled top plate we see in the pictures. From the pictures, you can tell there is some movement of the bar from rest position to "pulled" position of the trigger. That should be enough movement to trigger the sear. So the problem as I see it is that the trigger plate will need to be inlet some more to achieve proper contact of the trigger bar to the sear arm. Put some lipstick on the bottom of the sear arm for the right side lock and install the lock. Set it to half cock. Install the trigger set, pull the trigger and then remove the set. Do you see lipstick on the top of that trigger bar? If not, inlet the trigger plate a little deeper.

 

[Phil Coffins]

The triggers are in the wrong slots, the front trigger trips the right lock normally. Swap them and see how they work.

 

[rafterob]

The triggers are in the wrong slots, the front trigger trips the right lock normally. Swap them and see how they work.

WHooHoo! You win the prize! Big Duh moment on that one. That just might make a huge difference in the amount of work needing to be done.

 

[Shibbershabber]

The triggers are in the wrong slots, the front trigger trips the right lock normally. Swap them and see how they work.

I'll give that a try tonight!